racerx43269
Member
- :
- 2002 mazda protege 5
ok... I have been and keep reading lots and lots of people saying search on how to turbo my protg, I have personally searched for then when i first became a member... however the forced induction section is kinda... well empty.. not many people post there for some odd reason or another, same as the ecu information... not much their either.. so hopefully this doesnt get ignored too..
There is some great advice on this forum and some times it is kinda hard to discover it. i decided to make a little list and throw some ideas out there for the newbies for FORCED INDUCTION... AT the BOTTOM of this post I will include an estimated list for a budget or stock MSP build and an ALL out expencive way to turbo your car with semi accurate prices, these are what I have paid and what I have seen others pay for stuff over the past few years. Please take inflation and all that bull crap into account, and the simple fact that someone is only going to sell something to what someone is going to pay for it
PLEASE, no gripes on this post it is just informative WITH links, anything that I might have forgot, please PM me and I will edit this so that others can use this in hopes having a better base start for all the newbies out there.
CREDIT:
HERE IS A LINK that ALOT of people are missing.
even I my self didnt realize that some one had posted this already..
I want to give ALL of the credit on this post to all of the members that have brought Information from experiences, trial and error, or just mechanical knowledge to this forum, thank you to every one for posting and helping. it is greatly appreciated.
N/A going boost IMPORTANT INFO
better PVC valve option
******************NOTE******************************
NO MATTER which way you go through… rather it be a budget build or an expensive build… there is one thing to remember… the final product WILL make you grin… at least a little.
A protg with a good engine FUNCTIONAL, (if not forged... stock will do UNDER 9 lbs. of boost 6-7 is recommended so you don’t blow your motor
A turbo manifold:
Exhaust gasket for turbo head to turbo manifold (OEM part number )
A TURBO:
INTERCOOLER
BOV
ECU (also called PCM by some) your cars computer
An S-pipe:
A j-pipe
Oil feed lines and adapters:
Oil Drain line
Oil pan turbo inlet options
Turbo water source and drain
Extra stuff
Gauges,
Boost control
TURBOCHARGER:
The turbo can be a stock MSP GT2554 R, GT2860RS, GT2870 T3/04E there are lots of choices out there. The different sizes mean different things... i.e. the STOCK gt2554 R boosts fast but is limited in its max boost... where as a t3/t4 boost slowly and has a higher horsepower possibility, BUT it doesnt reach boost until somewhere around 4k rpms... Personally I chose a gt2860RS it is fast spooling... but not extreamly fast, the kind of driving i do i dont need boost at 2500 rpms, 3000 and beyond is fine for me... i can save on gas that way.
Turbo manifold,
OEM will work, there are a few places that make aftermarket turbo manifolds, they work great, and it all depends on your route that you wish to go and the turbo you choose
Intercooler,
This has options... again OEM works fine IF you have the right parts, to run OEM, you need the oem radiator, the oem SMIC ( side mount intercooler ) the OEM ac condensor and lines however OEM MSP works fine, you can run a front mount. There are several kits available, some on eBay some on here some on various sites. Some modification to your stock car is again required, some require cutting and welding... others dont.
INSTALL LINK ( how to )
BOV (blow off valve) / Bypass Valve
OEM bypass valve will work fine... bypass valve meaning it flows the stock turbo blow off air back into the system to allow faster spooling and more effective use with the engine, YES you can have it vent to the atmosphere, or feed into the intercooler pipes as a bypass, it is up to you how you want this to run. I have my setup with 2 BOV's I didn’t have a choice i ran out of pipe so i just used an extra BOV and decided to hook it up...
ECU:
This is a much debated subject, what engine management is better blah blah.... you have options... some work better than others... a STOCK MSP ECU, will get your car running with no tuning on a stock setup. This means just drop it all in and install it... and start the car and drive... there are MANY options for tuning, MPI tuner, Greddy emanage blue, UNIchip, SDS tuning and standalone, HALTECH, AEM standalone, SSAFC, THIS is also a largely debated portion of tuning... however the stock MSP ecu will work fine, as will a non turbo ecu with a voltage clamp and fuel cut deffender..
STOCK MSP turbo, gt28's and most anything ball bearing is going to have a water inlet and outlet line, this allows the turbo to utilize the cars cooling fluids to keep things cool, there are a few places you can tap into here, the stock protg has throttle body lines that can be swapped out to feed and drain the turbo. there is a how to on THIS forum again you can choose to tap a line somewhere and keep the stock lines how they are, and just use tapped portions as some have done.
TURBO INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS ( for those of you that are Do It Your Selfers, )
S pipes
connect to the turbo and take the exhaust out to the exhaust pipe. You can have one custom made, there are some companies that make them such as cork sport, GHL, there are a few members making 3'' downpipes on the forum, such as the pope, and myself. However OEM will work fine for normal boost conditions
J pipe,
OEM will work fine if that is what you have, if you decide to go aftermarket with something like cork sport, then you will get a complete s pipe with j pipe.
OIL FEED
Oil feed and drain lines vary from turbo to turbo, there is a how to in the how to section of THIS forum on how to install them, there are a few ways to go about this, a sandwich plate that goes infront of the oil filter, ot a T fitting that goes in conjunction with the stock oil pressure sender unit.
OIL FEED AND DRAIN LINE INSTALL LINK
OIL DRAIN
Oil drain lines can be tricky for some, but it is straight forward if you look at it the right way with some help, the turbo has a location to drain from, you connect a drain line that allows the turbo to drain with gravity to your oil pan,
OIL PAN
Oil pan turbo drain inlet (tapped oil pan) is one way to utilize the stock oil pan and allow your turbo to feel its oil into it to keep the oil flowing in a circular motion. This is a great option for many, SOME choose to tap their windage tray such as the stock MSP utilizes, and have the oil drain there. There is a custom oil pan made by AWR that has a tapped and pre welded option for more holding capacity as well as turbo input. Again some choose to use a sandwich plate that sits in front of the oil filter and allows you to have 4 oil outputs, for gauges and oil feed, and so on; you can put a T in at the STOCK oil pressure sensor location and feed from there. Again there are options
EXTRAS
There are some extra things that it seems everyone seems to forget, or never post about... VACCUM LINES and CLAMPS, the stock MSP has clamps on EVERY vac line, there is a stick on it (LINK) but no one seems to think about it... chasing a boost leak is a pain in the ass
BOOST CONTROL:
Electronic boost controllers and manual boost controllers aren’t really required at stock levels, UNLESS you want to change something, like boost levels, and when they kick in. Again... NOT needed on a stock setup... but as you progress they become needed with higher boost levels.
GAUGES:
gauges aren’t completely needed but they are very helpful to have, boost gauge at the least, allows you to see boost, wide band is for tuning, it is nice to have, water temp, oil temp egt, oil pressure aren’t have to haves but again, they help you know what your car is doing, and how things are functioning
FUEL PUMP
OEM will work... after market is good
FUEL PUMP INSTALL LINK
COST LIST
MSP OEM BUILD (completely stock setup from MSP
Turbo (includes water lines and SOMETIMES oil drain line) $300-600
TURBO Manifold $150-300
SMIC (side mount intercooler) $50- 200
Oil restrictor (ATP turbo) $8-25
T fitting for oil feed line $15 (ace hardware)
Water feed and return lines (rubber hoses) $12-$30
S pipe $50
J pipe (u can reuse yours it will fit)
Radiator $200
MSP a/c condenser $200-$500 (supply and demand, dealership vs. auto zone, maybe lucky enough to get a junk yard version for cheaper)
Oil drain adapter for tapped oil pan, $7 at home depot
Steel braided feel line and drain line kit (for oil) $50 – 100 at ATP and various places
Various clamps and vac t’s $40
All in total for about $1087 -2067 NOT including install, or fluids
EXPENCIVE ROUTE
STEED SPEED MANIFOLD, protophyle, MAM, (or completely custom) $400-1000
GT28 or larger $750-2000
Cork sport s and j pipe or custom $300 – 600
GHL, Apexi R1 Turbo back exhaust $700- 2100
Perrin FMIC or Turbo XS FMIC $800- 1700
SLS or AWR motor mounts $400
ATP custom oil feed and drain lines $110
AWR oil pan $300
Sandwich plate $40
Various gaskets and sealants $100
Spec or Fadanza flywheel $350
Upgraded clutch $400
ALL gauges, $250- 400
Electronic boost controller $300- 500
Standalone ECU $900- 2000
Dyno time ( 8 – 10 hours ) $500 - 1000
Forged internals, $1300- 2000
PNP head work $1000-2000
Valves, cams and assembly’s $1200
Injectors $50 - $300 (wrx 440’s)
Perrin fuel rail or Custom made $150- 300
GTX transmission gears and lsd and all that stuff $9,000
Labor $1300- $2500
Totaling 11,200 to 28,000
Remember this would be at a cost of a pro shop, charging completely full pricing and everything paid over time and it is WAY over priced, but it is what a pro car would be built for with out homie hook ups… I my self have put in well over 10,000 into 2 engines, 2 turbo systems, with all the goodies, not to include the system
I’m sure there is something on this list that I forgot, like the price of busting a stud or bolt and spending 4 hours trying to get it removed without messing stuff up… it’s a learning experience…
There is some great advice on this forum and some times it is kinda hard to discover it. i decided to make a little list and throw some ideas out there for the newbies for FORCED INDUCTION... AT the BOTTOM of this post I will include an estimated list for a budget or stock MSP build and an ALL out expencive way to turbo your car with semi accurate prices, these are what I have paid and what I have seen others pay for stuff over the past few years. Please take inflation and all that bull crap into account, and the simple fact that someone is only going to sell something to what someone is going to pay for it
PLEASE, no gripes on this post it is just informative WITH links, anything that I might have forgot, please PM me and I will edit this so that others can use this in hopes having a better base start for all the newbies out there.
CREDIT:
HERE IS A LINK that ALOT of people are missing.
even I my self didnt realize that some one had posted this already..
I want to give ALL of the credit on this post to all of the members that have brought Information from experiences, trial and error, or just mechanical knowledge to this forum, thank you to every one for posting and helping. it is greatly appreciated.
N/A going boost IMPORTANT INFO
better PVC valve option
******************NOTE******************************
NO MATTER which way you go through… rather it be a budget build or an expensive build… there is one thing to remember… the final product WILL make you grin… at least a little.
A protg with a good engine FUNCTIONAL, (if not forged... stock will do UNDER 9 lbs. of boost 6-7 is recommended so you don’t blow your motor
A turbo manifold:
Exhaust gasket for turbo head to turbo manifold (OEM part number )
A TURBO:
INTERCOOLER
BOV
ECU (also called PCM by some) your cars computer
An S-pipe:
A j-pipe
Oil feed lines and adapters:
Oil Drain line
Oil pan turbo inlet options
Turbo water source and drain
Extra stuff
Gauges,
Boost control
TURBOCHARGER:
The turbo can be a stock MSP GT2554 R, GT2860RS, GT2870 T3/04E there are lots of choices out there. The different sizes mean different things... i.e. the STOCK gt2554 R boosts fast but is limited in its max boost... where as a t3/t4 boost slowly and has a higher horsepower possibility, BUT it doesnt reach boost until somewhere around 4k rpms... Personally I chose a gt2860RS it is fast spooling... but not extreamly fast, the kind of driving i do i dont need boost at 2500 rpms, 3000 and beyond is fine for me... i can save on gas that way.
Turbo manifold,
OEM will work, there are a few places that make aftermarket turbo manifolds, they work great, and it all depends on your route that you wish to go and the turbo you choose
Intercooler,
This has options... again OEM works fine IF you have the right parts, to run OEM, you need the oem radiator, the oem SMIC ( side mount intercooler ) the OEM ac condensor and lines however OEM MSP works fine, you can run a front mount. There are several kits available, some on eBay some on here some on various sites. Some modification to your stock car is again required, some require cutting and welding... others dont.
INSTALL LINK ( how to )
BOV (blow off valve) / Bypass Valve
OEM bypass valve will work fine... bypass valve meaning it flows the stock turbo blow off air back into the system to allow faster spooling and more effective use with the engine, YES you can have it vent to the atmosphere, or feed into the intercooler pipes as a bypass, it is up to you how you want this to run. I have my setup with 2 BOV's I didn’t have a choice i ran out of pipe so i just used an extra BOV and decided to hook it up...
ECU:
This is a much debated subject, what engine management is better blah blah.... you have options... some work better than others... a STOCK MSP ECU, will get your car running with no tuning on a stock setup. This means just drop it all in and install it... and start the car and drive... there are MANY options for tuning, MPI tuner, Greddy emanage blue, UNIchip, SDS tuning and standalone, HALTECH, AEM standalone, SSAFC, THIS is also a largely debated portion of tuning... however the stock MSP ecu will work fine, as will a non turbo ecu with a voltage clamp and fuel cut deffender..
STOCK MSP turbo, gt28's and most anything ball bearing is going to have a water inlet and outlet line, this allows the turbo to utilize the cars cooling fluids to keep things cool, there are a few places you can tap into here, the stock protg has throttle body lines that can be swapped out to feed and drain the turbo. there is a how to on THIS forum again you can choose to tap a line somewhere and keep the stock lines how they are, and just use tapped portions as some have done.
TURBO INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS ( for those of you that are Do It Your Selfers, )
S pipes
connect to the turbo and take the exhaust out to the exhaust pipe. You can have one custom made, there are some companies that make them such as cork sport, GHL, there are a few members making 3'' downpipes on the forum, such as the pope, and myself. However OEM will work fine for normal boost conditions
J pipe,
OEM will work fine if that is what you have, if you decide to go aftermarket with something like cork sport, then you will get a complete s pipe with j pipe.
OIL FEED
Oil feed and drain lines vary from turbo to turbo, there is a how to in the how to section of THIS forum on how to install them, there are a few ways to go about this, a sandwich plate that goes infront of the oil filter, ot a T fitting that goes in conjunction with the stock oil pressure sender unit.
OIL FEED AND DRAIN LINE INSTALL LINK
OIL DRAIN
Oil drain lines can be tricky for some, but it is straight forward if you look at it the right way with some help, the turbo has a location to drain from, you connect a drain line that allows the turbo to drain with gravity to your oil pan,
OIL PAN
Oil pan turbo drain inlet (tapped oil pan) is one way to utilize the stock oil pan and allow your turbo to feel its oil into it to keep the oil flowing in a circular motion. This is a great option for many, SOME choose to tap their windage tray such as the stock MSP utilizes, and have the oil drain there. There is a custom oil pan made by AWR that has a tapped and pre welded option for more holding capacity as well as turbo input. Again some choose to use a sandwich plate that sits in front of the oil filter and allows you to have 4 oil outputs, for gauges and oil feed, and so on; you can put a T in at the STOCK oil pressure sensor location and feed from there. Again there are options
EXTRAS
There are some extra things that it seems everyone seems to forget, or never post about... VACCUM LINES and CLAMPS, the stock MSP has clamps on EVERY vac line, there is a stick on it (LINK) but no one seems to think about it... chasing a boost leak is a pain in the ass
BOOST CONTROL:
Electronic boost controllers and manual boost controllers aren’t really required at stock levels, UNLESS you want to change something, like boost levels, and when they kick in. Again... NOT needed on a stock setup... but as you progress they become needed with higher boost levels.
GAUGES:
gauges aren’t completely needed but they are very helpful to have, boost gauge at the least, allows you to see boost, wide band is for tuning, it is nice to have, water temp, oil temp egt, oil pressure aren’t have to haves but again, they help you know what your car is doing, and how things are functioning
FUEL PUMP
OEM will work... after market is good
FUEL PUMP INSTALL LINK
COST LIST
MSP OEM BUILD (completely stock setup from MSP
Turbo (includes water lines and SOMETIMES oil drain line) $300-600
TURBO Manifold $150-300
SMIC (side mount intercooler) $50- 200
Oil restrictor (ATP turbo) $8-25
T fitting for oil feed line $15 (ace hardware)
Water feed and return lines (rubber hoses) $12-$30
S pipe $50
J pipe (u can reuse yours it will fit)
Radiator $200
MSP a/c condenser $200-$500 (supply and demand, dealership vs. auto zone, maybe lucky enough to get a junk yard version for cheaper)
Oil drain adapter for tapped oil pan, $7 at home depot
Steel braided feel line and drain line kit (for oil) $50 – 100 at ATP and various places
Various clamps and vac t’s $40
All in total for about $1087 -2067 NOT including install, or fluids
EXPENCIVE ROUTE
STEED SPEED MANIFOLD, protophyle, MAM, (or completely custom) $400-1000
GT28 or larger $750-2000
Cork sport s and j pipe or custom $300 – 600
GHL, Apexi R1 Turbo back exhaust $700- 2100
Perrin FMIC or Turbo XS FMIC $800- 1700
SLS or AWR motor mounts $400
ATP custom oil feed and drain lines $110
AWR oil pan $300
Sandwich plate $40
Various gaskets and sealants $100
Spec or Fadanza flywheel $350
Upgraded clutch $400
ALL gauges, $250- 400
Electronic boost controller $300- 500
Standalone ECU $900- 2000
Dyno time ( 8 – 10 hours ) $500 - 1000
Forged internals, $1300- 2000
PNP head work $1000-2000
Valves, cams and assembly’s $1200
Injectors $50 - $300 (wrx 440’s)
Perrin fuel rail or Custom made $150- 300
GTX transmission gears and lsd and all that stuff $9,000
Labor $1300- $2500
Totaling 11,200 to 28,000
Remember this would be at a cost of a pro shop, charging completely full pricing and everything paid over time and it is WAY over priced, but it is what a pro car would be built for with out homie hook ups… I my self have put in well over 10,000 into 2 engines, 2 turbo systems, with all the goodies, not to include the system
I’m sure there is something on this list that I forgot, like the price of busting a stud or bolt and spending 4 hours trying to get it removed without messing stuff up… it’s a learning experience…
Last edited:
