transmission question re hard to shift

[BlueBomber]

Ok so I was in a big fuster-cluck traffic jam this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of stop and go it got really hard to shift into gear. Like I had to REALLY force it. To the point where if I was stopped at a light, I wouldn't take it out of 1st because I wasn't sure I'd be able to get it back in gear. EDIT my clutch leg was hurtin like crazy... EDIT 2 ... also the car would not coast if I released the brake so I think that rules out the clutch dragging? EDIT 3 ... just tried shifting while parked engine off about 2 hours after driving, no problem shifting.

When driving it seemed normal.

I read on the internets that it means the clutch slave cylinder is going.

Can somebody more experienced than me please educate me?

 

[Targaryen420]

take it to a professional that knows what hes doing, and that can properly diagnose the issue.

 

[Targaryen420]

Ive also had the same problems for a couple months now.

 

[MrGiggles]

Ok so I was in a big fuster-cluck traffic jam this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of stop and go it got really hard to shift into gear. Like I had to REALLY force it. To the point where if I was stopped at a light, I wouldn't take it out of 1st because I wasn't sure I'd be able to get it back in gear. EDIT my clutch leg was hurtin like crazy... EDIT 2 ... also the car would not coast if I released the brake so I think that rules out the clutch dragging? EDIT 3 ... just tried shifting while parked engine off about 2 hours after driving, no problem shifting.

When driving it seemed normal.

I read on the internets that it means the clutch slave cylinder is going.

Can somebody more experienced than me please educate me?

If the car isn't wanting to coast you have a brake dragging, or the clutch is leaking down and engaging without you knowing it.

When a hydraulic clutch springs a leak (either internal or external), after the pedal is pushed, the clutch slowly begins to re-engage, while the pedal remains on the floor. If it's bad enough the clutch will not fully release, and hard shifting into 1st and grinding in reverse will be the result.

With the age and low cost of the master and slave cylinder, I'd replace them both. If the problem persists, there's an issue with the clutch fork or release bearing, but I rarely see that happen.

 

[BlueBomber]

OK awesome thanks a lot for your reply Mr. Giggles.

 

[BlueBomber]

I've been looking at the factory service manual. Obviously if I want to remove the clutch master cylinder this will require me to drain the reservoir that is shared with the brake system. After I am finished with the clutch hydraulics, am I going to need to air bleed the brake system as well? Re the fluid in the reservoir being too low? The FSM doesn't state that it is necessary or not.

 

[MrGiggles]

I've been looking at the factory service manual. Obviously if I want to remove the clutch master cylinder this will require me to drain the reservoir that is shared with the brake system. After I am finished with the clutch hydraulics, am I going to need to air bleed the brake system as well? Re the fluid in the reservoir being too low? The FSM doesn't state that it is necessary or not.

Shouldn't have to, just don''t push the brake pedal while it's apart.

You can also clamp the line shut with a vice grip so it doesn't empty itself.

 

[BlueBomber]

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but what did you mean earlier by an "internal leak"??

As in, the hydraulic system is leaking internally in one of the cylinders? Could this be prone to happen during excessive thermal conditions vs normal driving conditions?

 

[MrGiggles]

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but what did you mean earlier by an "internal leak"??

As in, the hydraulic system is leaking internally in one of the cylinders? Could this be prone to happen during excessive thermal conditions vs normal driving conditions?

Internal leaks are most often limited to master cylinders.

If the piston seal is compromised, fluid will bypass it and just go back to the reservoir. The leak is internal because no fluid ever leaves the system, but pressure is lost. On a slave cylinder, if the piston seal is faulty, fluid leaks past it and into the dust boot, then runs down the engine. The fluid is lost and considered an external leak.

Yeah, it could be worsened by high temps.

 

[BlueBomber]

Ok, I expected that might be the case. Thank you again for your help.