Running a hot wire from the CX-9 rear
- Thread starter hw4ng3r
- Start date
Actually I have an appointment to get this done at my local garage this Thursday.
I looked into doing it myself but without any lift I gave up after seeing how many panels I would have to remove while laying on the ground.
The good news is that there seems to be a well protected path underneath between the frame and these panels if you remove them and put your wire there. There is also a bundle of wire that seems to travel through the center near the rear diff. You could try to follow that same path, but without lifting the car I couldn’t see well enough to do it.
I looked into doing it myself but without any lift I gave up after seeing how many panels I would have to remove while laying on the ground.
The good news is that there seems to be a well protected path underneath between the frame and these panels if you remove them and put your wire there. There is also a bundle of wire that seems to travel through the center near the rear diff. You could try to follow that same path, but without lifting the car I couldn’t see well enough to do it.
Very good wiring guide: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-Routing-a-Power-Wire.aspx
You want a 40 amp circuit breaker on the car's firewall near the battery. Your wiring goes from the battery positive post through the circuit breaker and back to the +12v terminal on the 7-pin connector on the back of the car. Use a stout wire, probably a #10. You will also want to run a negative wire, at least #12, from the 7-pin connector ground pin back directly to the battery negative post. Don't trust using a negative circuit through the trailer chassis or the car chassis for anything as critically important as your electric brakes. The center pin on the connector is often not used, although back up lights on the trailer are really handy when putting the trailer into a spot after dark.
You want a 40 amp circuit breaker on the car's firewall near the battery. Your wiring goes from the battery positive post through the circuit breaker and back to the +12v terminal on the 7-pin connector on the back of the car. Use a stout wire, probably a #10. You will also want to run a negative wire, at least #12, from the 7-pin connector ground pin back directly to the battery negative post. Don't trust using a negative circuit through the trailer chassis or the car chassis for anything as critically important as your electric brakes. The center pin on the connector is often not used, although back up lights on the trailer are really handy when putting the trailer into a spot after dark.
I'll take the plunge and get under the car and rip off the splash guards to see what's there (and take photos). I'm installing a Class 3 Hitch anyways so I'll be under there. I was also planning on doing this without jacking it up, but that'll be a game time decision lol.
So got the job done by an independent garage. It was too dark for photos but basically he went on the driver side. From the rear bumper, then above the driver side rear suspension and then followed what i think is the brake line all the way to the engine compartment. In the engine compartment there is a nice open spot on the diver side of the battery where the wire can be fed up from under the car.
To do follow the brake line he had to remove all the driver side underpanels that sits between the front and rear wheel.
I spoke to my mazda dealer as well, and apparently you can fish the cable through the wire bundle that goes from the back to the from of the car, but that is apparently quite a hard job.
To do follow the brake line he had to remove all the driver side underpanels that sits between the front and rear wheel.
I spoke to my mazda dealer as well, and apparently you can fish the cable through the wire bundle that goes from the back to the from of the car, but that is apparently quite a hard job.
