Possible first time buyer

[Lets_go]

Hello, was looking over the website but theres way too much info here, lol (which may be good or bad)

anyway, looking at a few 2003 (2003.5) Mazdaspeed proteges.

Never owned one before nad have no idea what if any specific issues i should be concerned with.

Thanks for any help.

 

[xtreme velocity]

There are so many things to look for in a turbo cars. haha First things first, make sure car doesnt smoke at any given point. idle, driving, wot. Check all the fulids, besides trans because you really cant check it. Make sure fluids are the correct color and make sure non are low. Rather there is a CEL on or not take to parts store and have codes pulled to make sure there are no stored codes. Listen for turbo spool and bpv to release. The only gear that should grind is second and it only happens sometimes in these cars, but it should not grind really hard. you can barley notice it really. Fuel cut issues are common in these cars, so if your trying to get into it and after 5500 rpm it feels it gives out a little, thats normal too. All these normal things are easily fixed though. not anything in particular to look for really. I do believe there is a sticky thread here that has a guide to first time buyers that may have a little more knowledge than me. I did not research this car before buying. I seen it I liked it and it was a mazda turbo car, so I bought it. haha

hope this helps bud

 

[tweety2300]

Pull the intake tubing off and gently jiggle the wheel in the turbo to make sure there's no shaft play in the turbo. Then remove cold piping to check for oil.

Don't be afraid to run the car hard on test drive this will show any issues it has. If seller does not let you he is hiding something. When the car is off turn key to on position to make sure oil, check engine, abs, and srs lights come on before starting. If they don't they have probly been removed. Make sure it has set for ~8 hours before starting up to make sure valve seals are good and no lifter tick. Pull the oil cap off and make sure engine looks clean and it's not black and gunked up.pull radiator cap off ( when it's cold) and check for stop leak. Check oil for cleanness and metal. Check brakes and tires. Also give wire harness a thorough look over to make sure it hasn't been hacked up. Any mounting brackets that are not the same color indicate being replaced from rust or a wreck ( regardless of what car fax says) check all body lines to make sure they are even and don't have oddly spaced gaps which is another indicator of an accident. Make sure ac blows cold even though it's winter. Take it too a local inspection place and ask them to do a state look over with out replacing the sticker.

I've been burned in a few cars and have a good check list now. There will always be small things here and there that you will find wrong

 

[tweety2300]

Also smell the exhaust to make sure it doesn't smell like gas, rotten eggs or oil

 

[Dvdap]

Is there a fix for that second gear grind?
Mine does it more lately, its not a grind it just kind of tiny touch i can feel and hear it but barely.
If i put better tranny fluid in it and bushing would that help?

 

[tweety2300]

Gear oil change will help

 

[Dvdap]

Thanx a lot!

 

[Dvdap]

What is the best trans fluid for the msp trans?
Ive been looking around with not much luck..
People throw a few brands out there GM Syncromesh Redline And some ford motocraft fliud.

Anyone have input on this?

 

[Gabi]

What is the best trans fluid for the msp trans?
Ive been looking around with not much luck..
People throw a few brands out there GM Syncromesh Redline And some ford motocraft fliud.

Anyone have input on this?

I'm running the Honda manual transmission fluid intended for the Si's from 06-10. I've had no issues.... Then again I've only used it for about 3500 miles and will change it every other oil change.

 

[tweety2300]

I'm running the Honda manual transmission fluid intended for the Si's from 06-10. I've had no issues.... Then again I've only used it for about 3500 miles and will change it every other oil change.

Most older honda transmissions require 10-40 motor oil. Not sure about the new ones but I'm sure they don't need as heavy as a weight the protege does

 

[Gabi]

Most older honda transmissions require 10-40 motor oil. Not sure about the new ones but I'm sure they don't need as heavy as a weight the protege does

For sure its not as heavy as the protege stuff but the Si's starting in 2006 came with helical lsd's similar to the ones on the MSP. That's why I feel comfortable running it.

 

[tweety2300]

LSD has nothing to due with what the synchros and gears need. Transmissions are built for specific weight of oil. Even if it is shifting smoother you could still be damaging the synchros. If you're trying to protect the LSD just weld it or get an mfactory

 

[xtreme velocity]

I run redline synthetic in my transmission. Shifts great. Didnt change the weight though.

 

[PSUENGR]

Pull the intake tubing off and gently jiggle the wheel in the turbo to make sure there's no shaft play in the turbo. Then remove cold piping to check for oil.

Don't be afraid to run the car hard on test drive this will show any issues it has. If seller does not let you he is hiding something. When the car is off turn key to on position to make sure oil, check engine, abs, and srs lights come on before starting. If they don't they have probly been removed. Make sure it has set for ~8 hours before starting up to make sure valve seals are good and no lifter tick. Pull the oil cap off and make sure engine looks clean and it's not black and gunked up.pull radiator cap off ( when it's cold) and check for stop leak. Check oil for cleanness and metal. Check brakes and tires. Also give wire harness a thorough look over to make sure it hasn't been hacked up. Any mounting brackets that are not the same color indicate being replaced from rust or a wreck ( regardless of what car fax says) check all body lines to make sure they are even and don't have oddly spaced gaps which is another indicator of an accident. Make sure ac blows cold even though it's winter. Take it too a local inspection place and ask them to do a state look over with out replacing the sticker.

I've been burned in a few cars and have a good check list now. There will always be small things here and there that you will find wrong

Probably good advice, but most sellers aren't going to let you do some of the items above. I know I certainly wouldn't let someone coming to look at my car take off the intake tube or the cold pipe. If you're looking to check things that thoroughly, you'd have to take it to a professional for a PPI if it was my car. Even if the buyer was a professional I still wouldn't let him do it.

If you're buying at a dealership then maybe you could check the radiator as the car will be cold, but a private seller will probably drive the car prior to you showing up so be sure to double check and make sure it is cold before trying to remove it.

Any of the visual checks are a good idea though.

 

[tweety2300]

If I was selling a legitimate car and not trying to rip someone off I would help them pull the intake piping off...

 

[PSUENGR]

If I was selling a legitimate car and not trying to rip someone off I would help them pull the intake piping off...

That's great for whoever buys your car, but your actions certainly wouldn't be the norm. If my car is running fine and not throwing any codes then I'm certainly not letting Joe Blow potential tire kicker start taking things apart on my car. I suppose if you accidentally crack the known to be brittle plastic intercooler piping you will just chalk it up to bad luck and throw cash into a car that you are already trying to get rid of? The potential buyer certainly isn't going to pay for it. Even if you don't break anything you can still get a vacuum leak if everything doesn't fit back up perfectly and now you need to invest time to take it off again and fix it and then try to explain to the next buyer why it has a lean code stored.

Basic rule of thumb here is don't expect a potential seller to let you do anything to a car you are looking to buy that a car dealership would not let you do.

Now if we're talking about a car that isn't running right or does have some CE codes then I think a lot more latitude needs to be given by the seller to let the buyer track down what the problem may be as that will have a significant impact on the purchase price.

 

[tweety2300]

Car can run fine and still be a pos

 

[PSUENGR]

That's the risk you take buying a used car. Especially one that is 10+ years old and not known for reliability.

I'm just saying that a buyer shouldn't expect to be allowed to start removing parts from a car to check things out. If a particular seller will allow it then go for it. Just don't expect it or automatically assume something is wrong just because they don't. It isn't normal even for an auto enthusiast much less your average person. You have to keep in mind that the average auto owner has never changed his own oil and wouldn't even know where to start. He certainly isn't going to let you start taking things apart.

 

[tweety2300]

That's the risk you take buying a used car. Especially one that is 10+ years old and not known for reliability.

I'm just saying that a buyer shouldn't expect to be allowed to start removing parts from a car to check things out. If a particular seller will allow it then go for it. Just don't expect it or automatically assume something is wrong just because they don't. It isn't normal even for an auto enthusiast much less your average person. You have to keep in mind that the average auto owner has never changed his own oil and wouldn't even know where to start. He certainly isn't going to let you start taking things apart.

We're talking Intake piping, not valve cover or anything. It takes 5 minutes. Besides if you own an msp and don't work on it yourself it probly left your possession awhile ago. Buying used cars does come with risks which is why you check everything before buying it. My truck blew a head gasket the day after I bought it and was probly starting to leak when I checked it over