in garage trying to pull off the stock IM and put on the one i P&P. but the right side wont move. i have all the bolts and nuts off that i know of and sprayed liquid wrench. is there something hidden that i need to take off? it's coming off the bottom IM but its just not loseing from the block. i'm only taking off the top part of the IM and leaving the bottom part on that has the TB on it. so any help?
need help asap, IM
- Thread starter FL_PR5
- Start date
- :
- MP5T / 944
There are bolts on low and studs on top and that pesky support. 10mm bolts..
well i have all the bolts off from the right side and cant see a bracket anywhere. i'll go check again. just pissing me off right now since i've been going at this for awhile now and don't want to take it to a garage to do. i'll go look again for a bracket. but it's like the top IM wont move from the block right next to the TB. the left side is just begging to come off since it's so lose.
nope, nothing. i checked from side to side. no extra bolts i missed. i'd take pictures to show but i'm at home for the weekend and not at my dorm with my camera. but the right side is more loose now when i muscle arm it by pushing it back as hard as i can but the left side is giving in ( i can hear and see it trying to slide off the top of the stud coming out of the block but the right seems like it's being caught on something). i can't lift from the back of the top IM because it will only lift as far as the angle can go in the front and it hits the block and is only able to come off a few mm's.
ah! this was suppose to be a quick project, now the suns going down.
ah! this was suppose to be a quick project, now the suns going down.
**** it.
i'm taking it to a garage. i've spent almost a whole hour trying to take a simple IM off. i dunno wtf is going on with it. so i'll let someone else deal with it. and i used the rubber end of a hammer to deal with and it budged some. but it still wont let me pull it off. i'm just running out of time and the dark isn't helping.
i'm taking it to a garage. i've spent almost a whole hour trying to take a simple IM off. i dunno wtf is going on with it. so i'll let someone else deal with it. and i used the rubber end of a hammer to deal with and it budged some. but it still wont let me pull it off. i'm just running out of time and the dark isn't helping.
you have to scrape the s*** off. i did that with the spare since i bought new gaskets to replace the old ones.
and in the midst of putting everything back together i noticed a detieroration in one of the O-rings on one of my fuel injectors... so i got to play with it leaking for a little. fun stuff right there.(bike)
and in the midst of putting everything back together i noticed a detieroration in one of the O-rings on one of my fuel injectors... so i got to play with it leaking for a little. fun stuff right there.(bike)
-puzzled.
The only way i got mine off was to first split the manifold (all conenctions TB, EGR pipe, etc) and let the bottom half 'drop down'. This gave access to the IM where it mounts at the head (bottom bolts). And the aforementioned bracket...
It has got to be easier to do all that than to re-assemble and take to a garage...
The only way i got mine off was to first split the manifold (all conenctions TB, EGR pipe, etc) and let the bottom half 'drop down'. This gave access to the IM where it mounts at the head (bottom bolts). And the aforementioned bracket...
It has got to be easier to do all that than to re-assemble and take to a garage...
- :
- 03' Mazda Protege 5
Did ya figure out what you missed yet?? I will be doing this soon
gone_fishin
Member
- :
- One of a Kind '99
I've done this countless times, the more you do it, the easier it gets. This is all from memory, so please excuse me if I forgot a step.
1.) Remove all of the VAC lines to the upper half of the IM. Mark them accordingly if you aren't comfortable with where they go on reinstallation.
2.) Remove the bolts that secure the IM ports to the head. The bolts along the bottom at the corners are the hardest to remove. There is a 'track' machined out of the exterior of the IM to help you guide your socket to them-- use a mirror and a light and a 6 inch extension to loosen the nuts nearly all the way. To get the nuts off the rest of the way, use a magenetic retriever with twisting so that they won't drop onto the plenum.
3.) Remove the PCV valve and the bolts securing the Fuel rail to the IM. Be very careful that you don't lose the O-rings on the injectors-- they come off the injectors easily. Make absolutely sure that you be careful when removing the insulators/spacers grommets that go between the rail and the IM-- if they drop into the engine bay, they're likely lost for good and they're quite expensive and hard to come by from the dealer. Set the Rail on top of the head.
4.) Remove the bolts securing the upper half of the IM to the lower half of the IM.
5.) Disconnect the lines to the VICS and the VCTS actuators on the left hand side (mark them according to which actuator they connect to before doing this).
6.) Remove your cold side pipe from the throttle body, then proceed to remove the Throttle Body from the plenum itself. Do this by removing the 4 bolts, the various lines connected to it, and the 2 sensors. Set the TB aside. Clean the EGR valve while it's out-- use a carbon killer of your choice.
7.) This is imperative-- Remove the nut that secures the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold. This requires a special wrench-- a flare nut wrench of the proper size (search because I forget the exact mm). Without unsecuring the exhaust mani side of the EGR pipe, the IM will not move enough for you to be able to move the top half off the head.
8.) Remove the two bolts that connect the underside of the IM to the seating bracket. This requires you to jack the car up, and get under it. This is also imperative-- without doing it, the IM will not move enough for you to take the top half off the head.
9.) Once this is done, you should be able to move the IM enough to move the top half off of the head. First, push the top half laterally towards the firewall to unseat it from the bolts on the head. You may need to use a rubber mallet to assist you because it can be difficult to unseat. Then, pull upwards to remove the top half from the bolts on the lower half.
To reinstall, reverse the process. Make sure you lubricate the gasket with the proper lubricant (listed in the shop manual), and make sure that the convex side of the adhesive on the NEW IM gasket is facing the head. Also make sure that the injectors are press fit correctly into the IM.
When you reinstall your PnP manifold, if you've removed VCTS, make sure that you've sealed the hole where the VCTS rod used to go through. Do this during the pnp process. Use a 1/8 NPT and thread a bolt in there. Use JB weld on the threads, and on the exterior. Use an excess of JB weld to fill in the hole on the interior of the port walls and smooth it out when you're porting. Reconnect your actuators just as they were before, but leave the end of the actuator rod (once connected to the VCTS rod) free. Just make sure it has clearance to move. I forgot to add, put a new TB gasket on there before you reinstall the TB-- chances are it's already shot, and it can be damaged easily on removal (it generally seperates into pieces when you pull the TB off).
1.) Remove all of the VAC lines to the upper half of the IM. Mark them accordingly if you aren't comfortable with where they go on reinstallation.
2.) Remove the bolts that secure the IM ports to the head. The bolts along the bottom at the corners are the hardest to remove. There is a 'track' machined out of the exterior of the IM to help you guide your socket to them-- use a mirror and a light and a 6 inch extension to loosen the nuts nearly all the way. To get the nuts off the rest of the way, use a magenetic retriever with twisting so that they won't drop onto the plenum.
3.) Remove the PCV valve and the bolts securing the Fuel rail to the IM. Be very careful that you don't lose the O-rings on the injectors-- they come off the injectors easily. Make absolutely sure that you be careful when removing the insulators/spacers grommets that go between the rail and the IM-- if they drop into the engine bay, they're likely lost for good and they're quite expensive and hard to come by from the dealer. Set the Rail on top of the head.
4.) Remove the bolts securing the upper half of the IM to the lower half of the IM.
5.) Disconnect the lines to the VICS and the VCTS actuators on the left hand side (mark them according to which actuator they connect to before doing this).
6.) Remove your cold side pipe from the throttle body, then proceed to remove the Throttle Body from the plenum itself. Do this by removing the 4 bolts, the various lines connected to it, and the 2 sensors. Set the TB aside. Clean the EGR valve while it's out-- use a carbon killer of your choice.
7.) This is imperative-- Remove the nut that secures the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold. This requires a special wrench-- a flare nut wrench of the proper size (search because I forget the exact mm). Without unsecuring the exhaust mani side of the EGR pipe, the IM will not move enough for you to be able to move the top half off the head.
8.) Remove the two bolts that connect the underside of the IM to the seating bracket. This requires you to jack the car up, and get under it. This is also imperative-- without doing it, the IM will not move enough for you to take the top half off the head.
9.) Once this is done, you should be able to move the IM enough to move the top half off of the head. First, push the top half laterally towards the firewall to unseat it from the bolts on the head. You may need to use a rubber mallet to assist you because it can be difficult to unseat. Then, pull upwards to remove the top half from the bolts on the lower half.
To reinstall, reverse the process. Make sure you lubricate the gasket with the proper lubricant (listed in the shop manual), and make sure that the convex side of the adhesive on the NEW IM gasket is facing the head. Also make sure that the injectors are press fit correctly into the IM.
When you reinstall your PnP manifold, if you've removed VCTS, make sure that you've sealed the hole where the VCTS rod used to go through. Do this during the pnp process. Use a 1/8 NPT and thread a bolt in there. Use JB weld on the threads, and on the exterior. Use an excess of JB weld to fill in the hole on the interior of the port walls and smooth it out when you're porting. Reconnect your actuators just as they were before, but leave the end of the actuator rod (once connected to the VCTS rod) free. Just make sure it has clearance to move. I forgot to add, put a new TB gasket on there before you reinstall the TB-- chances are it's already shot, and it can be damaged easily on removal (it generally seperates into pieces when you pull the TB off).
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gone_fishin
Member
- :
- One of a Kind '99
Also, during the Pnp process (if you want to do it right), use JB weld to fill in all of the holes along the inner port walls with an excess of JB weld. Smooth it out during the porting process. Make sure to port match-- that's extremely important. Better to err on the side of conservatism than to go overboard with the porting. Remember that following the air-path, you cannot go from a larger diamter port (on the IM) to a narrower diamter port (on the head). Going from a narrower diameter port (on the IM) to a larger diameter port (on the head) is fine, hense what I said about better to err on the side of conservatism.
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- MSP 1145
i don't know if you realized or not..but you have to get UNDER the car to get to the bracket....that's what's holding it on..that and the gasket...
