I'm finally continuing some research I've been piecing together for almost four years now. Instead of mucking up my suspension thread any farther, I'm going to post everything on the build here.
Objective:
Suspension inserts for the MSP which are SCCA stock class legal
Parts:
Koni 1st gen 626 yellow inserts, care of Gavin Leslie
Roadblocks:
1 - Rear MSP strut housings have a clearance divot which prevents inserts from sliding in
2 - The strut inserts have tabs at the top, which aren't narrow enough to get into the strut tube. Grind them down until the inserts slide all the way in.
* Note: In my pictures, the tubes are actually sitting on a lip inside the tube. They sit much lower after I ground down the tabs
Procedure:
1. Disassemble struts (compress springs, remove hat, remove spring, bellow, bump stop, etc)
2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to relieve pressure, drain oil into bucket
3. Chisel the cap off of the top of the strut body
4. Using a pipe cutter, dremel, die grinder, hack saw (whatever) ... cut off the top of the strut
5. Dump remaining oil into bucket, put internals aside
6. Widen drilled hole in bottom of tube so the bolts will fit through
* This will also help you gauge the length of spacer you'll need later
Fronts:
7. Test fit the insert
7a. If there is resistance, use a metal file and grind down any weld flashing from factory
7b. Repeat until insert slides in smoothly
Rears:
7. Use a marker and outline the clearance divot
7a. Use a die grinder and cut out the divot
7b. Test fit the insert, cut/file down material until it slides in smoothly
7c. Cut a patch for the "window" from a spare strut tube
7d. Weld the patch over the window, be careful around the spring perch so that it does not weaken
8. Test fit the inserts, measuring from the bottom how much space there is from the bottom of insert to bottom of tube
* Mine measured about 1"
9. Measure the length of the bolt mount on the bottom of the insert
* Mine measured just shy of 1"
10. Go to Lowe's and buy a 1" diameter iron coupler from the gas line section (don't use brass, it's too soft)
* Buy them in the lengths needed for front and rear. I bought 2" for the fronts and guessed I needed the same for the rears
Objective:
Suspension inserts for the MSP which are SCCA stock class legal
Parts:
Koni 1st gen 626 yellow inserts, care of Gavin Leslie
Roadblocks:
1 - Rear MSP strut housings have a clearance divot which prevents inserts from sliding in
2 - The strut inserts have tabs at the top, which aren't narrow enough to get into the strut tube. Grind them down until the inserts slide all the way in.
* Note: In my pictures, the tubes are actually sitting on a lip inside the tube. They sit much lower after I ground down the tabs
Procedure:
1. Disassemble struts (compress springs, remove hat, remove spring, bellow, bump stop, etc)
2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to relieve pressure, drain oil into bucket
3. Chisel the cap off of the top of the strut body
4. Using a pipe cutter, dremel, die grinder, hack saw (whatever) ... cut off the top of the strut
5. Dump remaining oil into bucket, put internals aside
6. Widen drilled hole in bottom of tube so the bolts will fit through
* This will also help you gauge the length of spacer you'll need later
Fronts:
7. Test fit the insert
7a. If there is resistance, use a metal file and grind down any weld flashing from factory
7b. Repeat until insert slides in smoothly
Rears:
7. Use a marker and outline the clearance divot
7a. Use a die grinder and cut out the divot
7b. Test fit the insert, cut/file down material until it slides in smoothly
7c. Cut a patch for the "window" from a spare strut tube
7d. Weld the patch over the window, be careful around the spring perch so that it does not weaken
8. Test fit the inserts, measuring from the bottom how much space there is from the bottom of insert to bottom of tube
* Mine measured about 1"
9. Measure the length of the bolt mount on the bottom of the insert
* Mine measured just shy of 1"
10. Go to Lowe's and buy a 1" diameter iron coupler from the gas line section (don't use brass, it's too soft)
* Buy them in the lengths needed for front and rear. I bought 2" for the fronts and guessed I needed the same for the rears
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