is there a way to bypass the Bose digital amp and still use the factory head unit

gogoputter

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mazda cx 5 grand touring
I have a 2013 cx-5 with the digital Bose amp. I am being told conflicting stories concerning upgrading the amp. I don't mind using the present head unit if I can somehow splice the speaker input wires and output wires from the Bose digital amp. I could then put in some type of amp or processor but I am being told that there isn't any watts per channel coming out of the head unit if it is equipped with the Bose digital amp...in other words the Bose amp is the heart of this system and being proprietary doesn't let you modify around this system. Any help with threads or knowledge concerning this is greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas!!! (If this can't be done I''ll install a unit with a remote...either a Kenwood or Alpine after market unit and somehow splice in the factory USB and back up camera)
 
Yes, you can bypass the factory amp.

I wanted to keep my factory head unit as it controls much more than the sound. You'll need an in line converter and another amp - if your car audio place doesn't know this....I'd look for another car audio place. There are different 'styles' of converters. Less expensive ones simply get the pre-tuned signals from the head unit and send this to the amp. (And the head unit remains totally unchanged in function/appearance). The more expensive models: get the pre-tuned signals from the head unit and 'zero' them and you/your car audio tech can tune the sound till your heart is content (And the head unit, again, remains totally unchanged....). Converters are also priced on how many ways their signals must be split (do you want 4 speakers, 6?, 9? 4 with a sub?, 6 with a sub?.....you get the idea). A good audio place should be able to steer you to what you want/need - and at least explain what you're getting, paying for, and have suggestions depending on your cash, what kind of music you like, etc.

Most good amps will also have adjustment(s) for power/power cut-off/highs/lows/frequencies - so you can tune it to your liking.

I went with a mid-level converter and a nice 5 channel amp (4 to the highs and one to the sub woofer), and added nice aftermarket highs and a sub. I knew the difference was going to night/day - and it was.......

All nicely tucked under the passenger seat.

The sky is the limit with aftermarket audio toys.....
 
Eagles...which converter did you get? Do you mean signal processors or is an in line converter something different. Without sounding uppity...cost really isn't an issue with me...I want to keep 8 speakers and I have a terrific 5 channel JL amp. I have already changed out the speakers and am getting almost zero sound from the front door speakers as the Bose unit is sending a low Hz signal to those speakers.
Did you do your own work? Any photos? thanks and let me know. I know the audio-control lcq-1 should let me go from the output of the Bose amp to this audio-control unit. Is that what you did? Thanks again
 
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Yea my shop did something like that. I can even see a digital (Rj45) cable in my amp. Got annoyed in the mazda 3 forum because some guy was implying that unless you spent thousands of dollars, you couldn't add a sub and amp that wasn't just spliced into existing wiring without spending thousands of dollars..my set up including custom box was under 1g.
 
I have the Audio Controls LC6I and it's an In-Line Converter. A signal processor is just that - it processes the signal (the amp, the head unit will do that - OR, an aftermarket processor will, obviously, do it). The Audio Control unit one or two steps up from mine has a small modular unit that does just that...and you mount it somewhere in your car. It was an 8 channel unit (and if you want to keep your 8 speakers.....may be just the ticket).

I have 4 speakers, plus the sub (so I am wasting two of the '6' channels....but AC doesn't make a 4 - at least from what I could find). If your running a 5 channel JL amp and have 8 speakers - that's why you're not getting your oommph from the front doors. A 5 channel will run two fronts, two rears and a sub (if you read the specs, I bet you'll see the one channel geared to a 300 watt mono channel (or whatever wattage/power it is - for the low) and 4 channels to 100 watts (or whatever the wattage/power is - for the highs). Amps/converters can switch at what cut-off frequency you want to go to low and/or mid-high.

I run the JL 700/5 Amp and Focal's front/rear and a JL 10" sub. You can go eons beyond this of course, but it's clean, simple, great quality, and your ears bleed if you want. I like clean and clear.......and it fit my budget. Plus, this converter (at a small upcharge) had a small knob (mounted wherever you want) that controls bass/sub. I have it directly left/front of the cup holders on the center - between the parking brake and cup holders. Directly where my right hand would reach for. Dial it up or down depending on what's playing and my mood.....and for $30 bucks?......a no brainer. From a single 10"?? - I can only tell you - it works, and works clean and thumps well. And, no, I did not do the install, it was Car Toys and and I looked around - it was the 4th shop I went to. They were really good, a metro based place and the installer and head tech guy knew their stuff. The installer (all the installers) were like "oh, jeez......'Jim', you should see his house, it's a giant test shed of sound....." Who was I to argue? Install was clean and what I would have done - it was done in a working day - I did have to vacuum a bit.........no biggie.

So, if you want to bypass the amp and keep the function of the head unit (which I very much wanted to do), you need a seperate converter and amp - no question. If money is no option, then you can go amp(s), converter(s) - high and low, bigger subs, cleaner highs....again, sky's the limit.
 
Shoot, I meant to say, nope....no photos. But it's clean, (hidden under the passenger seat), new speakers are in the factory mounts, and the sub is a smallish custom box and hidden by the luggage cover. My old car/system also had a JL sub - a 12".....much bigger box. This 10" (uh.....model number??) is a closed system and much punchier and clean. Hard to describe - I just like it better (good description??).

Cables are run clean, neat, uniform. Amp and line converter......they are square, tight....fit and finish is nice for any car. Amps and such are getting much smaller....
 
Yea, I have my knob mounted right under the dashboard. Where did you stick the sub?
 
just spoke with Crutchfield and they advised the audio control EQS for this Bose system. What did your install cost? the reason I ask is our local installer charges
$70 an hour rather than saying they will do the install for a certain amount like for four or five hundred dollars plus parts.
 
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