FAST idle when cold WOW

[chris41]

The owner in your link posted in 01/2007 which means he had an early build 2007 CX-7. His valve concern was correct as Mazda did decide lubrication instead of replacement per the TSB. Most of the negative comments seem to be similar early 07's which include the CEL, leaks, etc. Hopefully, these are no longer problematic issues with the later 07's and 08's. I haven't seen many posts myself with the newer CX's, but perhaps the later cars just don't have the mileage or age to show their problems either? Time will tell.....

 

[cruzdreamer]

Hmmm...I notice it races a bit at first but then calms down but I don't wait all the time for it to do so...is that bad?? I never really studied the RPMs and so I can't say where it revs to before dropping and how long. My cars is in the shop for a bad smoke issue...4 days now and no word...just a series of tests when the car is at different temps that have to go back to Mazda. I will update issues once I get my car back under Transmission thread.

 

[wongster]

i had my cx-7 since august of 06, and its been reving to 2100 rpm on cold starts since i had it... so far no problems.... i just wait till it hits 1k and drive off, and it takes less than a min... plus if i want to leave sooner.. i either just rev the gas more... or if your concern of the jerk.. press and hold on the braek and shift to the gear you want, and the rpm will auto go down to 1k..

 

[MazdaSpeedCX7]

fast idle

Hmmm...this is getting pretty interesting...I didn't know that you have driven my CX7...oh, you haven't because you say that I don't have to wait for 2 minutes - which I in the worst case do ! It seems to me that some people don't want to talk about any problems with Mazda CX7, which makes me wonder....
Anyways, here are the facts once again: I took my CX7 to the dealer and explained that in cold weather it takes up to two minutes before I can safely shift from P to R. The dealer verified the problem and agreed that this is not normal. They replaced the throttle body (they were pretty sure that this was the problem..) and reprogrammed everything several times in different ways and in different order. After a couple of days, and after consulting Mazda several times, they decided that this behavior is 'normal'. It seems that I'm not the only one, check this out: http://reviews.cnet.com/suv/2007-ma...essageSiteID=7&messageID=2351761&cval=2351761
Don't shoot the messenger, I'm only reporting the simple facts, like it or not !

Fact is especially in cold weather you should let your car idle for a short period of time before driving off anyway. Alot of makes and models of vehicles have a higher idle at startup for warmup purposes. Its totally normal. Most of the time its women who fail to understand this.(guitar)

 

[guitarman]

Fact is especially in cold weather you should let your car idle for a short period of time before driving off anyway. Alot of makes and models of vehicles have a higher idle at startup for warmup purposes. Its totally normal. Most of the time its women who fail to understand this.

Ahaa....MazdaSpeedCX7 is (also) a male chauvinist pig.... I think that EVEN women understand that LONG fast idle is not 'totally normal'....that's what I'm talking about !

 

[dukefan]

still concerned

Hello All,
I have an '04 Mazda6 that does the 2100 rpm thing at cold start up. I understand that most are saying it's within spec but the engine doesn't sound good when this happens. Sounds like an engine that doesn't have oil yet. Any additional thoughts?
thx

 

[adscft]

My '07 does the same. Idles at 2100 from a cold start and drops to 1300 in like 30 seconds. But I still got a clunk shifting to R at this point. And also, shifting directly to D was fine, no clunk.

I didn't bother watch the tacho before shifting to R (right away) until I came cross this thread, so I have no idea what it did. And it seems I didn't notice any clunk before. And yes, I did that reprograming, but that was a long time ago.

I did some google search, and found out that this slow-dropping-high-idle happens in quite a few other vehicles. No clunk was reported though.

So what did the dealership say? Please keep us posted.

CX7 does it straight away, and causes the heavy 'clunk' that doens't sound very healthy. It also seems to me that if I go directly to "D" without stopping at "R", there is no problem !? The questions that I have are that a) is EVERYBODY seeing this exactly the same thing, or are there exceptions (anybody ?), b) did you have this from the very beginning or did it start only after having the Variable Swirl Shutter Valve actuator replaced and the PCM reprogrammed (recalls 4807H and 4907H), as it seems to be in my case. In any case I DID NOT see this behavior until after about 3 months and having the above mentioned recalls done !

 

[guitarman]

My '07 does the same. Idles at 2100 from a cold start and drops to 1300 in like 30 seconds. But I still got a clunk shifting to R at this point. And also, shifting directly to D was fine, no clunk.

I've now been using the remote start system that my 07 happens to have to let the engine warm up long enough to drop the idle to a reasonable level. It seems that I will still get the clunk unless the idle is well below 1000 rpm, but already below 1200 rpm it's not so bad anymore.....(however, my other car is Honda CRV and there I can shift to R already above 1500 rpm in 5-10 seconds without any problems or clunks...). As my CX-7 was manufactured already in the first half of 2006, it has several 'issues' reported in various TSB's. For example, earlier the clunk was very loud and 'metallic', but now it sounds a bit less worrying as I had the original propeller shaft replaced by the dealer per a TSB (car was luckily still under warranty....). Now that the weather is getting warmer, the problems with fast idle and the clunk are clearly smaller but, unfortunately, still there. I also bought the CX7 Shop Manual and OBD II Scanner to be able to better understand what's happening and why....so I'm still worried and serious about all this !

 

[CorvairArt]

Mine's a 2007 and has done this from the start. 30 - 45 seconds and the rpms drop to about 1500. Once I hit that point, I can shift into gear without the thunk. I've found that anytime you shift into first at higher than 1,500 rpms (either up or down), I get the thunk.

 

[CorvairArt]

YES High Idle is too High, So I gently tap on the Gas Pedal and it seems to lower the idle faster... I don't get a thunk when I shift, and my Mazda 3 has 101,000 miles. Have you had the Tranny fluid changed? A Tranny shop doen't recomend Power flushing either... They flush about an extra 9 quarts thru... Good Luck!