EBC Green Pads Squealing

[Perro del Sol]

did you bed the brakes properly?

 

[AWDRACER6]

What the crap does that mean? Did i drive 500 miles and not LOCK the brakes up, ya i did that. Thats why i said i drove through 2 tanks of gas plus some.

 

[Perro del Sol]

What the crap does that mean? Did i drive 500 miles and not LOCK the brakes up, ya i did that. Thats why i said i drove through 2 tanks of gas plus some.

Here is an explanation on how to bed Hawk Brake Pads


Hawk Brake Bedding-in Procedure
Step 1:
Make 6-10 slow-downs from approximately 30-35 mph to 5 mph. applying moderate pressure. Do not come to a complete stop.
Step 2:
Make an additional 2 to 3 harder stops from approximately 40-45 mph. to zero.
Step 3:
DO NOT DRAG THE BRAKES! (after stopping - do not leave your foot on the brake pedal)
Step 4:
Allow 15 mintues or more for the brake system to cool down.
Step 5:
Your new Hawk pads are ready for use.


Here is EBC's Bedding Procedure from their website:

9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.
NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads "Off-Flat" and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.

 

[not yellow]

^ wow, what a PITA! but i suppose it's worth it if you do it right...

 

[Perro del Sol]

Here is some more info in regards to sqeaking:

What makes my brakes squeak- and how do i fix it?
Ok, here's the answer: http://www.delphi.com/pdf/techpapers/1999-01-0142.PDF
It's 8 pages long- and will tell you exactly what causes brake noise.
Did you read it? No? Ok, We'll summarize it briefly: High-pitched brake squeal is caused by a high-frequency vibration between the pad and the rotor. Brake noise is not caused solely by the brake pad. The brake rotor diameter, and stiffness of the disc are also factors in the offending noise. Metallic-Carbon pads (as opposed to organic (asbestos) pads) typically produce more inherent noise than the older organic pads. Different brake pad manufacturers use different and varying amounts of substances in their pads: Iron, Copper, Zinc, Other Alloys, Lead, Carbon, Ceramic compounds, Kevlar, and numerous other fillers. This variation in pad composition, geometric design of the pad, and the stiffness (density) of the pad material itself can also contribute to the noise. Lastly, all of these factors can be affected by environmental factors such as temperature and humidity.
Now, how do I fix it?
#1: Make sure you have straight and true surfaces on your rotors and pads. Turn, or replace rotors as necessary- do the same with the pads.
#2: Inspect calipers, caliper sliders, and all other mounting sufaces and metal-to-metal contact areas. (This includes the rotor to hub mounting surface which commonly becomes contaminated by rust and other debris!) Lubricate all metal-to-metal contact areas with moly grease or lube. Inspect complete system and make sure that rotors and pads are lining up 'true' when brakes are being applied.
#3: Apply anti-squeal moly lube or similar to backing plate of the pads - or use an anti-squeal shim between the pad and the piston contact areas. This will change (dampen) the frequency of the vibration and will help reduce the noise.
#4: Chamfering of the leading and trailing edge of the pads will also help to reduce noise levels.
#5: Inspect related suspension components to make sure worn components are not placing undue stresses on the braking system, calipers, and pads.

Still not fixed? Ok! - You've got a tough one! We recommend going here to get your Doctorate in Friction Science: http://www.frictioncenter.com
I hope you remember your ThermoDynamics lessons from Physics class!

 

[not yellow]

lots of variables here. in the end i'm curious if the OP's problems stem from the pads themselves or from one of the above factors including correct bedding...? my guess is that most people don't bed their pads correctly, but i don't hear about brake noise problems very frequently. not sure what the OP has going on....