Downsizing to 16" wheels for MPG?

I have a 2023 cx5 ce with the 19" wheels. Im not happy with the mpg im getting with it evn though i drive like a grandma. Do you think dropping to a 16" 16lb wheel and a tire that weighs about 3 lbs less than the 19" Goodyears would net much of a mpg gain? Thats around a 17 or 18 lb drop per corner. Might even trade it off on a 2023 Civic Sport.
 
I have a 2023 cx5 ce with the 19" wheels. Im not happy with the mpg im getting with it evn though i drive like a grandma. Do you think dropping to a 16" 16lb wheel and a tire that weighs about 3 lbs less than the 19" Goodyears would net much of a mpg gain? Thats around a 17 or 18 lb drop per corner. Might even trade it off on a 2023 Civic Sport.
No, you won’t be able to tell the minimum MPG gain with 16” wheels. Your 16” tires may be heavier than 19” tires which offset the lighter weight on wheels. In addition, if your 2023 CX-5 CE has a 2.5T, I believe you can’t fit 16” wheels at front due to the larger dual-piston disk calipers.
 
Unless you are constantly at WOT accel, the difference in tire weight will not matter to MPG.

I've got the Mich CrossClimates. That tread pattern is best for wet weather, it can evacuate water faster thru the open channels. I went with 225/65 17 on aftermarket wheels (for the lightest wheel/tire I could justify price on ). Wet weather traction is very good. Tire/wheel weight dropped a huge amount from the stock 19's. Stock 59.5 pounds, CrossClimate 43.8 pounds. I can much easier chirp all four tires from a stop (not a brakestand), and accel is noticeably quicker.
 
A few pertinent questions for the OP to help him decide on the most economical path forward:

What mpg is he getting now, and what does he want to get?

How many miles does he drive per year?

What does he pay for a gallon of fuel?
 
3.19 gal currently
15-18 k yr chasing grandkids sporting events. This yr a bear hunt in Canada and deer hunt in Colorado will add to that.
30-31 on highway. CX 30 I traded would get 37 or more at times so I thought I could push 35ish.
Just drove to Omaha got 31.6 on windless flat I 29. Not hand calculated.
 
You didn’t answer all my questions so I can’t give you precise answers. The current CX-5 gets 31 mpg on the highway according to the EPA, which is what you are already getting. The older CX-30s had a significantly smaller engine and weighed less, so would naturally get better mpg.

If you paid the national average price for gasoline - currently around $3.50 - and if you averaged 32 mpg your yearly fuel cost for 16,000 miles would be $1750. If instead you got 35 mpg your fuel cost would be $1600. If new wheels and tires cost you $700 it would take you almost five years to break even - if the new wheels actually gave you 35 mpg. I doubt that you would get that increase in mpg.

If you traded the CX-5 for a Honda - which gets up to 42 mpg on the highway - you might save $400 a year. Considering the loss you would likely take on trading in the CX-5 for the Honda (used car prices are currently tumbling BTW) you could take years to break even. My advice? Keep enjoying the CX-5 and put the extra Honda money in the bank where it will earn at least some interest.
 
I run 16s and upsized tires (225/75/16). You'll probably notice a bigger difference in ride quality and cabin noise (with the right tires, not all terrains) than you will with MPG. However whatever you're going to spend on a set of new wheels and tires will offset whatever MPG savings you would see. Separately, the hit you'll take on trading in on another car will make the payback time many years into the future.

If you're looking to save money, you can find Hyundai/Kia take-offs which use the same bolt pattern and hub bore and near identical offset for cheap on FB marketplace/CL. I've seen clean sets for $2-300 US. The nice thing with 16" tires is that they are cheap, mine cost $111 each (now $130).
 
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A few pertinent questions for the OP to help him decide on the most economical path forward:

What mpg is he getting now, and what does he want to get?
You didn’t answer all my questions so I can’t give you precise answers. The current CX-5 gets 31 mpg on the highway according to the EPA, which is what you are already getting. The older CX-30s had a significantly smaller engine and weighed less, so would naturally get better mpg.

If you paid the national average price for gasoline - currently around $3.50 - and if you averaged 32 mpg your yearly fuel cost for 16,000 miles would be $1750. If instead you got 35 mpg your fuel cost would be $1600. If new wheels and tires cost you $700 it would take you almost five years to break even - if the new wheels actually gave you 35 mpg. I doubt that you would get that increase in mpg.

If you traded the CX-5 for a Honda - which gets up to 42 mpg on the highway - you might save $400 a year. Considering the loss you would likely take on trading in the CX-5 for the Honda (used car prices are currently tumbling BTW) you could take years to break even. My advice? Keep enjoying the CX-5 and put the extra Honda money in the bank where it will earn at least some interest.
Which question didn't I answer
I said I pay 3.19 gal
How many miles does he drive per year?

What does he pay for a gallon of fuel?

I run 16s and upsized tires (225/75/16). You'll probably notice a bigger difference in ride quality (with the right tires, not all terrains) than you will with MPG. However whatever you're going to spend on a set of new wheels and tires will offset whatever MPG savings you would see. Separately, the hit you'll take on trading in on another car will make the payback time many years into the future.

If you're looking to save money, you can find Hyundai/Kia take-offs which use the same bolt pattern and hub bore and near identical offset for cheap on FB marketplace/CL. I've seen clean sets for $2-300 US. The nice thing with 16" tires is that they are cheap, mine cost $111 each (now $130).
Yeah tire replacement for the 19" are crazy expensive
I like Nokian tires and I can get the 16" for 120 ea or so
I've already seen the trade in figures and needless to say I would sell it outright and get pretty close to 31k I paid for it. It's got 2k miles
I don't see me losing much selling private party but I could be wrong! I may just go to 17" I found some cp31s that are 19.3 lbs and tires for em are close to 16 " prices. I should be able to sell the 19" wheels and tires for close to the price of 17s. I am really torn as I drove a civic today and it was pretty sweet. Definitely not as upscale as cx5 but nice riding. I'll figure it out someday! Lol
 
An
I said I pay 3.19 gal



Yeah tire replacement for the 19" are crazy expensive
I like Nokian tires and I can get the 16" for 120 ea or so
I've already seen the trade in figures and needless to say I would sell it outright and get pretty close to 31k I paid for it. It's got 2k miles
I don't see me losing much selling private party but I could be wrong! I may just go to 17" I found some cp31s that are 19.3 lbs and tires for em are close to 16 " prices. I should be able to sell the 19" wheels and tires for close to the price of 17s. I am really torn as I drove a civic today and it was pretty sweet. Definitely not as upscale as cx5 but nice riding. I'll figure it out someday! Lol
Anyone have experience with using center bore rings? Wheels are 73.1 and cx5 is 67.1. ok to do this or does it cause problems at some point?
 
No issues. You always want to use hubcentric rings if the wheels aren't an exact match for the hub bore.

I prefer aluminum hubcentric rings over the plastic ones.
 
I agree with #2. In addition, my own experience suggests you won't increase your mpg above the noise from fill up to fill up.
 
Rolling resistance will make more difference than wheel diameter, if that makes any difference at all. Lighter wheels and tires may show in acceleration because they have a lower polar moment. But since fuel mileage is a more steady state condition, we're back to rolling resistance. Taller rubber sidewalls flex more converting energy to heat.

First try setting your tire pressure to the sidewall max and repeat a trip with known mileage. I have seen as much as +2 mpg from that with some tires. Look for "blue" or "eco" low rolling resistance tires and save the cost of new wheels for gas money or maintenance. I've tried to economically justify trading cars for fuel mileage and it never works out. Not even going from a 13 mpg Tundra to a 24 mpg Colorado worked, economically. I disliked the Tundra and also the Colorado (it broke me from ever having a GM vehicle).
 
I gotta get rid of these Toyos and get some Nokian. 19" tires are super expensive compared to to 16 and 17 so gotta figure that also. I can get 17" wheels and nokian one tires for around 1200 bucks. not sure what I could get for the OEM 19" wheels and tires. 19" tires are 400 total more than 17" tires. Idk I'm so back and forth on keeping it or getting rid of it . Cylinder deactivation issues have me thinking about long term relability also so idk!
 
Over the years I’ve done lots of rim and tire changes and always felt lighter rim and tire packages. Make the car faster. As people have mentioned, if you’re have the turbo model, the smallest you can do is 18 inch rims. They did test on some show on YouTube, and found 19 was the best balance for performance and comfort, but not the best for mpg. 2 pounds per corner really isn’t much but remember it’s the rolling resistance so it does make the car feel faster. Try and shoot for 4-5+ Pounds per corner to make it worth it (making the car faster is what you’re trying to accomplish). Not to mention it messes with the speedo.
 

As people have mentioned, if you’re have the turbo model, the smallest you can do is 18 inch rims.
The smallest rim you can use on turbo models at front is 17” due to the larger dual-piston disk caliper used. People found they can’t use the factory T145/90D16 106M compact spare at front with the 2.5T CX-5’s. Mazda has updated the compact spare to 17” for the 2.5T on newer model CX-5’s.
 
I was not aware of Mazda upgrading the spare last I heard if you had a blow out of the front, you would have to take a rim from the rear, move it to the front and put the spare on the rear.

I was referring to people daily driving 17 inch skinny rims. I’ve done it and on a front wheel drive car non-turbo and would spin like no tomorrow a.k.a. around corners as well. I’ve heard some rumors that the rears can do 17s without issues. It’s the fronts that have the clearance issues.
 
I was not aware of Mazda upgrading the spare last I heard if you had a blow out of the front, you would have to take a rim from the rear, move it to the front and put the spare on the rear.
Yes that’s the standard procedure stated in owner’s manual. But I personally had done tire change on the shoulder of the highway a couple of times and I really want to spend minimum time doing the tire change due to the safety reasons with those 18-wheelers passing by fast. I’d put the compact spare at front and drive away ASAP if I do have a blow-out at front. IMO the temporary spare should be able to be mounted at the rear AND the front. Unfortunately Mazda gave only T145/90D16 106M as the compact spare for US CX-5’s on 2019 MY, where that’s the year the 2.5T was offered and the provided 16” spare can’t fit at front due to the larger dual-piston disk calipers. Mazda did correct the error on MY 2020 and gave the T155/90D17 101M compact spare for turbo models.

2019:
C8BEDAEE-0047-4048-B401-9ED3725BD71B.jpeg

2020:
3C26923D-1A09-41C4-A84A-B20A30C62CB6.jpeg

I was referring to people daily driving 17 inch skinny rims. I’ve done it and on a front wheel drive car non-turbo and would spin like no tomorrow a.k.a. around corners as well. I’ve heard some rumors that the rears can do 17s without issues. It’s the fronts that have the clearance issues.
You can do 16” rim at front and rear on CX-5’s with non-turbo; but you can only do 16” rim at the rear on CX-5’s with turbo as the front has to be at least 17”.
 
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