Crank Forging Numbers and Casting Numbers -- FS Engine

CrispToast

Member
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2002 Protege5
I am rebuilding an FS-DE engine and my machine shop called today an told me something I've never had a machine shop tell me, "I screwed up your crank and I need to find another one."
PHP:
I supplied him with a steel (forged) crank from a 2003 Protege and he seems to only be able to find iron (cast) cranks.

I'd like to join the search, so I need to know where I can find all the forging numbers for the steel FS cranks. Yes, I've been googling all morning, but the best I've found is two sets of numbers from a crank kit supplier:

NUMBER SET "A" 15, and FS07

NUMBER SET "B" 933M-R67, 938M-R67, and 938M-R68

The supplier doesn't say which is cast and which is forged and my crank has none of these numbers, but it has every appearance of being a forged crank.

Any helpful clues would be most appreciated.
 
I was under the impression that all the cranks in these engines were forged.
 
I was under the impression that all the cranks in these engines were forged.

It all depends on what you mean by "these engines."

The earlier ones appear not to be forged. I was just at the machine shop and he had a crank with casting number FS07 that was quite definately cast. My crank is forged and has only one forging mark that probably only identifies the tooling that made it. The number is a convex 13. "The "FS07" on the cast crank is made up of concave characters.

I keep reading here and elsewhere that either 1999-03 or 2000-03 motors were all forged cranks. I really don't have a big enough data set to be an authority. My 2002 crank is forged and my 2003 crank is forged. The FS07 came out of a mid-90s Ford Probe and was cast. That's allI know for sure.

It appears they will interchange, as the vendors supply them interchangably.

FYI, If you are looking at a cast crank, the parting line between the upper and lower molds will be narrow. About a 1/16" wide or so, tops. In some places it might look like the two halves are offset in some direction from one another. This is due to misalignment of the molds. The unmachined cast surfaces can be rough as if sand is glued to the surface in some areas.

Forgings tend to have wider parting lines between the upper and lower dies that have been ground down. These were about 3/8" wide on my crank, but they can be up to 1/2" or more on larger forgings.

The unmachined surface of a forging tends to be smoother and more uniform.

Hope that clears things up.
 
BTW, I now realize this post is in the wrong place. I thought I selected "Protege Performance." Guess not.

ADMIN! HELP!
 
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