Any high mileage CX-5 Turbos out there?
- Thread starter jadmt
- Start date
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
My last 2019 Mazda CX-5 turbo CPO lasted over 55,000+ miles with JB4with zero issues (totaled not my fault rear ended/sideswiped).
I beat the hell out of that car (after the car fully warms up ~30-45 minutes).I pop the hood to check if there are any leaks. I make the dealer rev the engine with the hood popped to check for oil leaks after driving the car hard.
Also, I always run the highest octane possible as I have a lead-foot.
When it comes to me purchasing a car still under warranty, I let the car idle with the heat on high blast with the windows down and air recirculating (even in the summer). Once I start the car, I wait for the idiot gauge to reach normal operating temp before I beat the hell out of it as it’s an easy way to see if there are any problems/leaks. The salesman usually yelling at me but I could care less as it’s my drivers license. I always fill up with the highest grade octane (at top tier gas stations). I drive the car like I stole it and have yet to experience any issues with my new CX-5 turbo. Also, I avoid hard launches as it’s an easy way to break stuff. Also, I never take the car snow/rain drifting.
I always make sure to buy CPO so I get 100,000 mile warranty. Finally, I make sure to follow the owner’s service manual, and have never experience problems with miss fires due to carbon build up (I do Italian tune up on the highway). Regarding the head/gasket as others have mentioned. I drive aggressively (over an hour at top speed on the highway), pedal to the floor, and listen for any weird noises or odd color smoke from the tail pipe. It’s easier to tell if there is a problem with the head or gasket as lots of white sweet smelling plume will appear when going open throttle on a warmed up car.
If one is concerned about warranty related/manufacturer related issues, just buy an extended warranty if planning to keep the car past the warranty.
Also, I avoid buying the first year car as it takes time for them to work out the bugs.
I beat the hell out of that car (after the car fully warms up ~30-45 minutes).I pop the hood to check if there are any leaks. I make the dealer rev the engine with the hood popped to check for oil leaks after driving the car hard.
Also, I always run the highest octane possible as I have a lead-foot.
When it comes to me purchasing a car still under warranty, I let the car idle with the heat on high blast with the windows down and air recirculating (even in the summer). Once I start the car, I wait for the idiot gauge to reach normal operating temp before I beat the hell out of it as it’s an easy way to see if there are any problems/leaks. The salesman usually yelling at me but I could care less as it’s my drivers license. I always fill up with the highest grade octane (at top tier gas stations). I drive the car like I stole it and have yet to experience any issues with my new CX-5 turbo. Also, I avoid hard launches as it’s an easy way to break stuff. Also, I never take the car snow/rain drifting.
I always make sure to buy CPO so I get 100,000 mile warranty. Finally, I make sure to follow the owner’s service manual, and have never experience problems with miss fires due to carbon build up (I do Italian tune up on the highway). Regarding the head/gasket as others have mentioned. I drive aggressively (over an hour at top speed on the highway), pedal to the floor, and listen for any weird noises or odd color smoke from the tail pipe. It’s easier to tell if there is a problem with the head or gasket as lots of white sweet smelling plume will appear when going open throttle on a warmed up car.
If one is concerned about warranty related/manufacturer related issues, just buy an extended warranty if planning to keep the car past the warranty.
Also, I avoid buying the first year car as it takes time for them to work out the bugs.
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N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T
Haha where are you doing this, the Autobahn?
foolish.
it warms up faster than that.
foolish,
good.
foolish,
what?
why? your radiator fan already controls coolant temp as needed. you don't need to do this.
great.
... foolish
what
yea. listen to him.
sad.
and so much more..
foolish
yes. it is a newer model mazda after all.
good.
not that you can get them to slide much anyways.
misfires can happen from much more than just carbon buildup.
also, i have rarely ever seen any skyactiv suffer from buildup.
all you have to do is just drive the car normally. occaisonally revving it out helps. constantly doing it wont.
you have literally no understanding of what you are doing or how reckless and dangerous your driving is, do you?
these cars really don't break much.
or just drive normally and do the maintenance on time.
not all first model years are problematic.
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
Thanks for your input but no need to talk trash. And speaking of foolish all DI engines (including Mazdas) have carbon buildup except for DI engines with port injection/meth injection to clean the valves.
When I mentioned driving like I stole it, I meant driving in sport mode or paddle shifter revving out the engine (once the car is warmed up) on the highway. If you baby the car with regular gas, and never go above 3k rpm don’t be surprised at 30.000-60,000 miles when you need walnut blasting to clean the intake valves due to misfires).
In New Jersey, if you drive the turnpike/parkway (south Jersey mainly at night), it’s like the Audubon. No body drives the 65 mph speed limit. Most drive 80+ and on the down hill most are doing 100+.
First year cars typically have problems (I’m sure you heard that before) but not all. Teslas with the huge panel gaps, Nissan with their CVT, Fords with their dry clutch/power shift, the list goes on and on. Another example, the mazdaspeed3, the first year it came out the trans/engine dog mount were failing and engines were dropping out the bottom. Speed3 Turbos that smoke. I owned a speed6 (also, smoky turbos replaced under warranty), leaking transfer case and people were having problems with the rear end shearing bolts. I’m not trying to rag on Mazda’s as this is my fifth or sixth Mazda. I just miss my speed3.
In regards to letting the car idle, I meant when driving it hard/boosting in the canyons and then immediately turn off the car. I prefer to let the car idle for 30 seconds so that the oil does not cake/sludge in the turbo alternatively just drive slowly for last couple miles.
And you’re right about my license is a privilege and not a right. I rarely exceed 100 for more then a few minutes But I do not do those kind of speeds on local roads only on highways following people who are going much much faster than I am (follow the rabbit rule). If you don’t have a radar detector get one. Also, use the Waze app as the community updates where the cops are at. I do not weave in and out of traffic not to mention I don’t race on the streets I have a separate car that I take to the track for that purpose.
If you baby the car with short drives and under 3k rpm, it won’t get the car hot enough to burn up the carbon build up on the intake valves and you will eventually get misfires and have to walnut blast to get back the loss of power and mpg’s.
It’s obvious you never drive in New York or New Jersey. Otherwise you’d understand driving aggressively is a must in the northeast.
P.S. it sounds like you should be driving a Honda or Toyota since you’re interested in Only driving the car regularly/slowly.
When I mentioned driving like I stole it, I meant driving in sport mode or paddle shifter revving out the engine (once the car is warmed up) on the highway. If you baby the car with regular gas, and never go above 3k rpm don’t be surprised at 30.000-60,000 miles when you need walnut blasting to clean the intake valves due to misfires).
In New Jersey, if you drive the turnpike/parkway (south Jersey mainly at night), it’s like the Audubon. No body drives the 65 mph speed limit. Most drive 80+ and on the down hill most are doing 100+.
First year cars typically have problems (I’m sure you heard that before) but not all. Teslas with the huge panel gaps, Nissan with their CVT, Fords with their dry clutch/power shift, the list goes on and on. Another example, the mazdaspeed3, the first year it came out the trans/engine dog mount were failing and engines were dropping out the bottom. Speed3 Turbos that smoke. I owned a speed6 (also, smoky turbos replaced under warranty), leaking transfer case and people were having problems with the rear end shearing bolts. I’m not trying to rag on Mazda’s as this is my fifth or sixth Mazda. I just miss my speed3.
In regards to letting the car idle, I meant when driving it hard/boosting in the canyons and then immediately turn off the car. I prefer to let the car idle for 30 seconds so that the oil does not cake/sludge in the turbo alternatively just drive slowly for last couple miles.
And you’re right about my license is a privilege and not a right. I rarely exceed 100 for more then a few minutes But I do not do those kind of speeds on local roads only on highways following people who are going much much faster than I am (follow the rabbit rule). If you don’t have a radar detector get one. Also, use the Waze app as the community updates where the cops are at. I do not weave in and out of traffic not to mention I don’t race on the streets I have a separate car that I take to the track for that purpose.
If you baby the car with short drives and under 3k rpm, it won’t get the car hot enough to burn up the carbon build up on the intake valves and you will eventually get misfires and have to walnut blast to get back the loss of power and mpg’s.
It’s obvious you never drive in New York or New Jersey. Otherwise you’d understand driving aggressively is a must in the northeast.
P.S. it sounds like you should be driving a Honda or Toyota since you’re interested in Only driving the car regularly/slowly.
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My apologies if you got the wrong idea, I've not intentions to insult you.
Can you show me a thread with photos of dirty skyactiv valves?
Occasionally, threading the needle to 5000rpm or so (lets say 4x per month, in second or third gear), could help clean out the fuel injectors and increase temperatures enough to clean some deposits out the engine and exhaust. Yes, always driving below half throttle will cause some deposits, no, constantly revving out your engine is not "better!"
I am not concerned with the impatience, needs, or intentions of the people behind me trying to pass. I am focusing on how my drivetrain wishes to be driven and follow the transmissions desired shift strategy accordingly. My priority is #1. Safety of everyone involved, including potential animals near or on the road, and #2 Efficiency. That does not mean I don't enjoy driving spirited. I like to push quite hard around the bends and my car is on a custom 91 octane tune. I will get to that.
Yes, on the highway when everyone is driving significantly faster than you, unfortunately, it makes sense to speed up a little. By no means can we dismiss this as no big deal. It is very dangerous!
Clean oil will not cake or sludge anywhere. Idling for a minute immediately after going full throttle is a sound practice. You do not need to have the heat on in the cabin while doing this. The radiator fan is already taking care of excess heat. Just drive normally for 5 minutes before you shut the engine off.
This is not simply about a drivers license. This is also about the health and safety of the environment, as well humans and animals alike. This also includes the responsible usage of our vehicles and the resources required to both manufacture and process them. If you do not choose to acknowledge these simple facts, I suggest that you refrain from driving. It would do you and those around you much good.
Sometimes, I like to go fast. I do not do it often. When I do, I will sometimes push my drivetrain quite hard to get there. I rarely ever do so for a prolonged duration.
Unless there is a real danger of being clipped by drivers trying to pass you, just drive normally!
I am currently 25. When I was a teenager, I was a very dangerous and aggressive driver. after the age of 21, I became much more conservative and patient. It genuinely scares and concerns me to see individuals significantly older than 25 behaving with zero patience or concern for safety and efficiency when they drive.
Regularly and frequently revving the engine as high as the transmission is willing to take it... even worse, overriding WOT shift points in manual mode and shifting late will cause way more deposits and unburnt fuel to accumulate in your engine and exhaust system.
No you won't.
I do not understand at all. Driving aggressively is never a "must."
Remember, Mazda engineers "economy" cars, designed for regular driving styles and conditions. They are tuned for efficiency, safety, and driving enjoyment for a "regular" driver. Driving enjoyment without insane power output and unnecessary amounts of cornering grip. Just precise steering, an eager and communicative chassis, with a wise transmission that understands what you are doing and sufficient torque to back it up.
My Skyactiv NA 2.5L in my Mazda 6 is tuned on 91 octane. Yes, I am usually a conservative driver. No, I do not always drive conservatively. I rev the engine out to 5000rpm + about once or twice a week.
This engine and drivetrain was carefully designed around the habits of the average driver, which is the following:
A well designed engine produces usable torque, at usable RPM's, and the transmission strives to keep the engine in that powerband as much as possible. Even though my vehicle is almost on its final tune, the AT still wishes to shift early and conservatively. I do not force it unless there is a rare instance where I actually have to.
Yes, your turbocharged 2.5L makes substantially more torque. 310lb/ft is no joke. I know, because my NA 2.5L on 91 octane will easily make around 210lb/ft at barely 2500rpm, and it is sufficient for me, both when I need the torque or when I am simply messing about, tuning the car, teaching the transmission new shift points, merging, shaming drivers with cars that produce way more torque, whatever.
However, it is still an everyday commuting car. You drive a CX-5. I drive a 6. They never prioritize performance. Anytime you override the AT's shift strategy and shift later than desired, you imply that you know better than the talented engineers who tuned your vehicle. (You don't.)
Drive safe.
N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T
A nice contradictory statement to start off the new year
I offer this long term turbo experience BUT not on a CX-5:
I own a 2006 5.9l Cummins Turbo. I use it to DD and haul my race car/28' enclosed trailer. This tow rig weighs 10,000 pounds.
These turbos last around 350,000 miles some over 450,000 miles. We check the for end and radial play. End play should be almost 0, redial play up to 1//8". My CTD has 265,000 miles and I'm going to start checking the end play every oil change. Simply remove the flex connector and feel the turbo wheel. It's not uncommon for these engines to go 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles before an overhaul.
I've been a member of a Cummins forum for 12 years. What I've noticed from folks who have premature turbo failures, they didn't change the oil regularly, they run there trucks on a hot tune towing a big load at +75 MPH. High boost wears out the bushings in the turbo more quickly. Shutting down hot warps shafts. It's not uncommon to run under load +30 PSI to 40 PSI boost. The Mazda 2.5 spikes to 17.5 psi, impressive for a pump gas engine!
I have an exhaust/turbo blanket on my CTD. It helps power, mileage, turbo lag. It also holds temp in the turbo and lets it cool off slowly when shut down. The 5.9 CTD often crack exhaust manifolds. I still have my OEM exhaust manifold. The exhaust blanket has extended it's life.
I plan on installing a turbo blanket as soon as I take delivery on my 2024 CX-5 turbo.
Also on the list is a DRTuned tune. I've run performance tunes on my CTD for 230,000 miles and not hurt the power train. How the operator uses the right foot has more impact hurting the power train than a performance tune. Over the past 15 years I've watch guys break their trucks with and without tunes. Nine times out of 10 they beat their trucks THEN complain.
I'll find the axial and radial play spec for a Mazda and start checking around 50k. My quick search didn't come up with any specs....
Found this video of a guy checking a Mazda turbo. Sounds like as long as the fins don't touch the housing and there is no axial, in/out, play it's good!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62opT5XRIdY
AND a look at the internals of a Mazda turbo and rebuild guide.
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php?topic=32362.0
I own a 2006 5.9l Cummins Turbo. I use it to DD and haul my race car/28' enclosed trailer. This tow rig weighs 10,000 pounds.
These turbos last around 350,000 miles some over 450,000 miles. We check the for end and radial play. End play should be almost 0, redial play up to 1//8". My CTD has 265,000 miles and I'm going to start checking the end play every oil change. Simply remove the flex connector and feel the turbo wheel. It's not uncommon for these engines to go 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles before an overhaul.
I've been a member of a Cummins forum for 12 years. What I've noticed from folks who have premature turbo failures, they didn't change the oil regularly, they run there trucks on a hot tune towing a big load at +75 MPH. High boost wears out the bushings in the turbo more quickly. Shutting down hot warps shafts. It's not uncommon to run under load +30 PSI to 40 PSI boost. The Mazda 2.5 spikes to 17.5 psi, impressive for a pump gas engine!
I have an exhaust/turbo blanket on my CTD. It helps power, mileage, turbo lag. It also holds temp in the turbo and lets it cool off slowly when shut down. The 5.9 CTD often crack exhaust manifolds. I still have my OEM exhaust manifold. The exhaust blanket has extended it's life.
I plan on installing a turbo blanket as soon as I take delivery on my 2024 CX-5 turbo.
Also on the list is a DRTuned tune. I've run performance tunes on my CTD for 230,000 miles and not hurt the power train. How the operator uses the right foot has more impact hurting the power train than a performance tune. Over the past 15 years I've watch guys break their trucks with and without tunes. Nine times out of 10 they beat their trucks THEN complain.
I'll find the axial and radial play spec for a Mazda and start checking around 50k. My quick search didn't come up with any specs....
Found this video of a guy checking a Mazda turbo. Sounds like as long as the fins don't touch the housing and there is no axial, in/out, play it's good!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62opT5XRIdY
AND a look at the internals of a Mazda turbo and rebuild guide.
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php?topic=32362.0
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- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
The turbo 2.5L was introduced in the CX-5 very recently in the 2019 model year. A cars.com search nationwide for the CX-5 yields only 2 Signature trim vehicles for sale with more than 100k miles. Couple Grand Touring Reserves north of 100k miles but I don’t think those particular ones had a turbo.
Give it time, they haven’t been around long enough to rack up high mileage. Unobtanium put about 80k miles on his before trading it in and he didn’t have any turbo related failures (other than a well documented software issue when below 20 F lol!).
As far as reliability is concerned, I think a search for failures is the better answer to your question as the turbo 2.5L is still fairly new. I couldn’t find a single turbo failure for the CX-5. Cracked blocks sure but no turbo failure.
Give it time, they haven’t been around long enough to rack up high mileage. Unobtanium put about 80k miles on his before trading it in and he didn’t have any turbo related failures (other than a well documented software issue when below 20 F lol!).
As far as reliability is concerned, I think a search for failures is the better answer to your question as the turbo 2.5L is still fairly new. I couldn’t find a single turbo failure for the CX-5. Cracked blocks sure but no turbo failure.
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- 2023 CX5 turbo
that's my point. I hear it being repeated all the time about how unreliable they are yet I have not read about an actual single failure. I have buddies with Ford eco boosts that have 200-300000 miles. I know guys with diesel turbos with over 500,000 miles..and I guarantee there will be at least one post on FB about someone saying don't get a turbo as they don't last.
Yep, 265,000 miles on my turbo Cummins. It runs all day long pulling a 10,000 pound toy box and rarely under 20 psi and often at 30.
Yet some guys kill a turbo under 50k. A CAI, poor oil filter, dirty oil, hot shut downs and general hot ridding excellerat wear. Steady state and smooth acceleration is how guys go +400,000 miles on a Cummins 5.9 turbo.
I will send an oil sample early on to get base line values to compare for this Mazda turbo engine. I use Blackstone. They compare my oil to my previous tests and to the averages for my engi in their data base. In this world we compare oil filter media, construction, by pass filter. An oil change requires 3 gallons of high grade oil.
No MV oil filters, CAI and regular oil changes is about it on the little gas burners...
Yet some guys kill a turbo under 50k. A CAI, poor oil filter, dirty oil, hot shut downs and general hot ridding excellerat wear. Steady state and smooth acceleration is how guys go +400,000 miles on a Cummins 5.9 turbo.
I will send an oil sample early on to get base line values to compare for this Mazda turbo engine. I use Blackstone. They compare my oil to my previous tests and to the averages for my engi in their data base. In this world we compare oil filter media, construction, by pass filter. An oil change requires 3 gallons of high grade oil.
No MV oil filters, CAI and regular oil changes is about it on the little gas burners...
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N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T
I used Oil Analyzers because I understand they have a more accurate fuel dilution test.
If they're Grand Touring Reserves they have turbos.
I was fat, dumb and happy with Blackstone!
Reading on Bob the Oil Guy:
"Polaris isn't bad but Test Oil in Ohio is the best I've found so far. Highly calibrated and they are using the latest latest technology. My samples to Dyson Analysis go through this lab. \ I sent a UOA to Oil Analyzers, Blackstone and Test Oil in Ohio from the same sample and found Test Oil to be the most accurate especially when the fuel numbers came back. Polaris (Oil Analyzers) was 2nd best and then BlackStone. Blackstones fuel percentage which isn't measured but interpreted was way off."
AND, this is alarming on Polaris - Oil Analyzers...
" You MUST call for a " report clarification " every time to make sure they ran the advanced test. Not the quicky one they do most of the time, that is basically worthless. 1.317.808.3750 Have your test in hand so you can give them the Lab# ."
And from Cummins Forum:
"I learned that blackstone bases fuel contamination based on viscosity and flashpoint. It's not a very accurate way to determine fuel percentages in the lube. Polaris labs which is the one I used this time uses gas chromotology I think it's called. Much more accurate."
TestOil Now looks like they are geared for fleets and industrial machinery. I'm going to pony up and buy a 5 oil kit from Test Oil.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/oil-analyzers-test-kit-ups-pre-paid-oaiuppkit/?code=KIT02-EA
https://shop.testoil.com/product/di...utm_term=bucket+kit+&utm_content=button+click
https://forms.testoil.com/acton/attachment/4748/f-0af6e792-79e5-4981-99e7-42c30dda303d/1/-/-/-/-/Industrial Analysis Example Report - Filtered Equipment (PAT)_Euro.pdf
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Found a Reddit post of a 2019 GTR, has over 260,000 miles and transmission fluid never changed, but mostly highway miles, supposedly no issues.
www.reddit.com
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
Look in the CX-9 Forums. They've had the same engine as the CX-5 turbos for a few years longer.Found a Reddit post of a 2019 GTR, has over 260,000 miles and transmission fluid never changed, but mostly highway miles, supposedly no issues.
Reddit - Dive into anything
Believe Mazda put the 2.5l turbo in the CX-9 in 2016.
