AC Compressor? Leak in the hoses?

Yonzy

Member
:
'16 Mazda CX5
Hey guys, so my AC has never worked since buying it used, but after a long drive from Washington to Southern California I decided I need to get this working. After some searches and checking I have come to find out the compressor clutch is not engaging at any air setting. I decided to buy those AC Refill bottles with a gauge after reading a thread about it here. Plugging up the gauge it reads completely zero, needle does not move whatsoever. So far I am assuming there is absolutely no refrigerant at all so the clutch does not engage. While holding down the trigger I hear a hissing sound not coming from the gauge/bottle or the low pressure port but somewhere else down the line going towards the dash. Also when I let go of the trigger the needle goes back down to zero. Holding down the trigger longer than before I saw the compressor clutch thing move about less than a quarter of a turn.
So far my conclusions are that there is a leak, I'm still crossing my fingers and hoping my compressor is not bad.
Inspecting the hose more down the line going towards the dash, I see this. All my previous vehicles the AC has always worked so I never had to inspect this line, but to me this doesn't look good. I don't know how it is supposed to look, I assume the previous owner doesn't have it screwed in all the way or is there some kind of gasket/grommet supposed to be there? I do not know what that grease is around what looks like threads, is it dye or some kind of sealant? Also those two rings before the threads are just sitting there hanging out, is it supposed to be holding something in? I'm going to assume that's where the leak is.

IsZxPK8m.jpg





EDIT: What the picture shows is actually the hose is disconnected a little and off the grommet, I pushed it back in and made sure it was relatively tight, tried the refrigerant again and this time the compressor clutch would engage and actually spin for a longer period of time, rushed back into the car but still no cold air (my AC light only turns on at 1, sometimes at 2, not 3 and fan actually stops at 4) but the gauge showed pressure slowly going back down; a lot slower than before, but still goes back down to zero. When the compressor is spinning the gauge goes completely zero, is that normal? I still don't know if that part I pushed in is the culprit, there's no leak whatsoever on the compressor unless you can't actually see it? Where else can it leak?
 
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Hey guys, so my AC has never worked since buying it used, but after a long drive from Washington to Southern California I decided I need to get this working. After some searches and checking I have come to find out the compressor clutch is not engaging at any air setting. I decided to buy those AC Refill bottles with a gauge after reading a thread about it here. Plugging up the gauge it reads completely zero, needle does not move whatsoever. So far I am assuming there is absolutely no refrigerant at all so the clutch does not engage. While holding down the trigger I hear a hissing sound not coming from the gauge/bottle or the low pressure port but somewhere else down the line going towards the dash. Also when I let go of the trigger the needle goes back down to zero. Holding down the trigger longer than before I saw the compressor clutch thing move about less than a quarter of a turn.
So far my conclusions are that there is a leak, I'm still crossing my fingers and hoping my compressor is not bad.
Inspecting the hose more down the line going towards the dash, I see this. All my previous vehicles the AC has always worked so I never had to inspect this line, but to me this doesn't look good. I don't know how it is supposed to look, I assume the previous owner doesn't have it screwed in all the way or is there some kind of gasket/grommet supposed to be there? I do not know what that grease is around what looks like threads, is it dye or some kind of sealant? Also those two rings before the threads are just sitting there hanging out, is it supposed to be holding something in? I'm going to assume that's where the leak is.

IsZxPK8m.jpg





EDIT: What the picture shows is actually the hose is disconnected a little and off the grommet, I pushed it back in and made sure it was relatively tight, tried the refrigerant again and this time the compressor clutch would engage and actually spin for a longer period of time, rushed back into the car but still no cold air (my AC light only turns on at 1, sometimes at 2, not 3 and fan actually stops at 4) but the gauge showed pressure slowly going back down; a lot slower than before, but still goes back down to zero. When the compressor is spinning the gauge goes completely zero, is that normal? I still don't know if that part I pushed in is the culprit, there's no leak whatsoever on the compressor unless you can't actually see it? Where else can it leak?

I believe that is one of the Ford style quick connects. There's a garter spring inside (Google it) and the male end uses a pair of O-rings to seal. I'd take that apart and verify that the spring is still in place, and replace the O-rings. Leaks can be almost anywhere, but they'll usually have that oily residue on them.

Do not put any of the A/C pro leak seal stuff in there. It only complicates things.

From there you really need to get a vacuum pump and a set of gauges to properly charge and diagnose the system. Autozone has them on their loan a tool program.

Once that line is fixed, replace the drier (add oil to it) and pull a vacuum on the system. Shut down the pump and let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour. The longer the better. If it holds vacuum, charge with 21oz of refrigerant and verify operation.

There are several guides on the web going through the process of charging and gauge interpretation. I suggest you read them.

You can take the shade tree method as well, and just repair that hose and put a couple cans of refrigerant in it.

FSM with A/C specs in it:
http://web.archive.org/web/20061223062340/http://protege5.ugly.net/
 
I will follow all of that and report back. Thank you so much!

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So I repaired the hose, new o rings in both high and low pressure hoses and I have a new receiver drier waiting to be installed after I figure out why the car isn't holding a vacuum. When I close the hoses and shut off the vacuum, the low pressure gauge goes back up to zero. My ac light does not come on sometimes at 3 and the air completely shuts off at 4, is that stopping me from fixing the ac?
I'm just not finding any leaks. I'm tempted to change out the compressor and condenser before I give up.
The only thing I haven't really checked because I can't a guide is the evaporator and the expansion valve. Where else can this thing be leaking from? I don't want to pay a mechanic $200 just to recharge and put dye in my system let alone find out how much it'll be to have them fix it.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
 
So I repaired the hose, new o rings in both high and low pressure hoses and I have a new receiver drier waiting to be installed after I figure out why the car isn't holding a vacuum. When I close the hoses and shut off the vacuum, the low pressure gauge goes back up to zero. My ac light does not come on sometimes at 3 and the air completely shuts off at 4, is that stopping me from fixing the ac?
I'm just not finding any leaks. I'm tempted to change out the compressor and condenser before I give up.
The only thing I haven't really checked because I can't a guide is the evaporator and the expansion valve. Where else can this thing be leaking from? I don't want to pay a mechanic $200 just to recharge and put dye in my system let alone find out how much it'll be to have them fix it.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

What do you mean close the hoses?

After shutting the pump down, leave the high and low hoses connected to the car and turned on, just close the valves on the gauge manifold so the pump is no longer connected. It should hold assuming no leaks in the system or the gauges.

The fan setting isn't affecting your system. There's a stickied thread at the top of this forum that goes through the repair, it's a common issue.

There is refrigerant available with dye already in it, dye just by itself, or dyed oil. The last two can be dumped in a convenient line in small amounts. Although if your system won't hold a vacuum for more than a couple minutes the refrigerant won't stay in long either, and the dye won't be distributed throughout the system.

Everything you need to know about the A/C components is in the service manual link that I put in my first post.
 
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