So here's what I think is an interesting story. Let me first say I have done what I think it a pretty exhaustive search of this forum (thank you all) which helped me do most of the initial troubleshooting, but I am still in trouble, and I hope there is someone either smarter than me, or more experienced to help out a bit.
I picked up a P5 in Kelowna for 1200, body in pretty good shape, and was told it just needs the clutch bled. There was picknpull marks on a lot of the engine bay, and a lot of things left loose, so I knew I was in for a larger job than that, but what the heck. I used to have a MSP, and need more room for the kiddies.
So I tried to bleed the clutch, nothing. I read about many people swapping out the master cylinder, so I did that, still nothing. Got myself a buddy, still nothing with two people until I took a big bloody bar, and pryed over the clutch fork, and voila, disengagement!
So the problem is either:
1. The master (or slave) is not moving far enough to disengage the clutch.
2. The new clutch (I was told it is brand new) is the wrong clutch OR has springs too strong for the clutch hydraulics.
3. Someone swapped in a slave with the wrong length pushrod.
4. Air in the system.
So these were my solutions for the problems.
1. I adjusted the rod behind the pedal to make sure I was getting the full range of the cylinder, and also bent down the stop-pad behind the pedal so I can push the clutch right to the carpet (this helped a lot).
2. I used my handy inspection scope (I love that bloody tool) and looked into the bell housing, I can SEE the clutch flexing, so I know it is working properly, but it seems the clutch REALLY needs to flex far to disengage.
3. I quickly fabbed up a longer rod in the slave cylinder (this also really helped) but now the issue is that there is NO slop in it at all, so the fork always had a bit of pressure on the throwout bearing.
4. I took the slave off, made it higher than the reservoir to help the bubbles out, and she pumped very clean the last time I sealed it, so I really doubt there is air in it, but can never really be sure can you?
At any rate, with my bent pedal-stop and my bolt-pushrod it BARELY shifts (you have to push the pedal through the carpet, and grind into reverse, and really slam it into 1st).
So my questions are:
1. Is there any aftermarket clutches that are too think, or take too long a stroke?
2. Maybe a clutch from the wrong car (different protg?).
3. Anyone had a similar issue?
I have done a ton of mechanical work in the past, but this one is a bit of a head scratcher!?!? Sorry for the long post guys...
I picked up a P5 in Kelowna for 1200, body in pretty good shape, and was told it just needs the clutch bled. There was picknpull marks on a lot of the engine bay, and a lot of things left loose, so I knew I was in for a larger job than that, but what the heck. I used to have a MSP, and need more room for the kiddies.
So I tried to bleed the clutch, nothing. I read about many people swapping out the master cylinder, so I did that, still nothing. Got myself a buddy, still nothing with two people until I took a big bloody bar, and pryed over the clutch fork, and voila, disengagement!
So the problem is either:
1. The master (or slave) is not moving far enough to disengage the clutch.
2. The new clutch (I was told it is brand new) is the wrong clutch OR has springs too strong for the clutch hydraulics.
3. Someone swapped in a slave with the wrong length pushrod.
4. Air in the system.
So these were my solutions for the problems.
1. I adjusted the rod behind the pedal to make sure I was getting the full range of the cylinder, and also bent down the stop-pad behind the pedal so I can push the clutch right to the carpet (this helped a lot).
2. I used my handy inspection scope (I love that bloody tool) and looked into the bell housing, I can SEE the clutch flexing, so I know it is working properly, but it seems the clutch REALLY needs to flex far to disengage.
3. I quickly fabbed up a longer rod in the slave cylinder (this also really helped) but now the issue is that there is NO slop in it at all, so the fork always had a bit of pressure on the throwout bearing.
4. I took the slave off, made it higher than the reservoir to help the bubbles out, and she pumped very clean the last time I sealed it, so I really doubt there is air in it, but can never really be sure can you?
At any rate, with my bent pedal-stop and my bolt-pushrod it BARELY shifts (you have to push the pedal through the carpet, and grind into reverse, and really slam it into 1st).
So my questions are:
1. Is there any aftermarket clutches that are too think, or take too long a stroke?
2. Maybe a clutch from the wrong car (different protg?).
3. Anyone had a similar issue?
I have done a ton of mechanical work in the past, but this one is a bit of a head scratcher!?!? Sorry for the long post guys...
