01 2.0l ES idle/hesitation problem

[TrilogyBPM]

hello all i have an 01 es and its giving me a hard time...
sporadic idle, boucnes between 800-1500 rpm at times sometimes it jumps from about 400-1000....
sometimes it cranks and wont start sometimes it will just start and stall.
when it does run its barely driveable it will run like poo spitting sputtering and voilently shaking till it hits about 3k rpm then it runs like normal.
i have several videos of it on my youtube page bpm03 check them out and see what you think, ill also post one to this thread...
now heres everything ive replaced or done in an effort to fix this..
tps
maf
knock sensor
timing belt
fuel pump
fuel strainer
fpr
cam sensor
crank sensor
cleaned egr valve
cleaner iac
cleaned throttle body
deleted both cats
replaced intake tube
plugs
wires
ignition coils
and ive probably replaced even more lol heres one video of it running i know its night and you cant see it shake violently but you can hear my motor mounts juttering around.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9_vem_ACss

 

[YenkoZL1]

Does the car Idle this way whether it is hot or cold? Is it worse one way or the other? I would think there is a vaccum leak somewhere. If you have thoroughly checked for vaccum leaks around the intake and looked at all vaccum lines and can confidently say they are all good then, I would say look at your brake booster for the leak. It could be bad and time to replace. BUT, this is my guess based off your video and the parts you show that have been replaced. Injectors could be leaking and causing this too while it is running.

I noticed that you have a CEL.....What code do you have?

 

[TrilogyBPM]

The code is for the second o2 sensor which has been deleted since I installed the jdm header, it idles this way either way

 

[YenkoZL1]

You said that you replaced your fuel pump. But did you replaced the high pressure filter? This is the housing your actual pump sits in. The fuel pump housing holds your main fuel filter(not the strainer). It looks like you have 188k on the car and if that filter is original then it might be causing a restiction issue. Your plugs look like they are burning normal? Run a fuel pressure check. The computer is compensating for something. So even though you have replaced a bunch of parts I would look them over. And can you rule out a vaccum leak yet? Vaccum leaks and fuel pressure issues can have similar symptoms. If your car runs this poorly at idle or during cruising and no CEL, then look at vaccum, fuel. So, lets start with 2 items that can cause your symptoms but not throw a CEL. 1st is MAF, 2nd Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel pump, and the high pressure filter within the fuel pump housing. Clean your MAF and check operating voltage on it. Shouldnt be higher than 2.4v. If your fuel pump is weak OR if its restricted by the main filter it will not engage the Fuel Pressure Regualtor b/c the FPR never gets to the ideal pressure to operate, so it stays open, and can seem like its faulty when its not.

 

[YenkoZL1]

Correction about MAF Voltage - If it is higher than 2.4v no worries. Higher voltage is ok. The range should be with ignition on (veh off) .9v-2.0v, at idle 1.7v-2.4v. If voltage is really low from these ranges check resistance at the connector of the MAF. You can also tap on the MAF while vehicle is at idle and see if the idle changes when the tap on the MAF. If idle changes, it is faulty. If you have a scanner for live data the flow rate should be 1.6 - 2.6 g/s at idle and 6.2-7.9 g/s at 2500rpm. Fuel pressure should be 39-45psi. Fuel pressure hold after 5min at minimum 22psi. If it bleeds down slow, it is probably an injector. Bleeds down really fast, then FPR. - This info is for a 2.0 FS motor. Not sure if yours is the FS or ZM. Pretty sure the specs are about the same for these.