How hard is it to chnage the front and rear rotors?

1WICKED6

1WICKED6

Member
:
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
I'm sorry if this thread is around already...but I just purchased front and rear Cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads and was wondering how difficult it was to change them on the 5 before I ventured into it and run into a snag. I know on my 98 Saturn and my 96 Grand Caravan it was cake where on my 98 Hyundai Accent it was impossible....Any input would be great even if it is a link to a previous thread...Thanks

Kid5
 
Piece o' cake. If you are doing the pads, might as well just slap the rotors on. I haven't done mine yet, but I would imagine you could find the DIY in the Mazda3 section.
 
So no one has done this to their 5 yet? I'm actually contemplating going to the shop that put my springs on to slap the new rotors and pads on....I'm nice an warm inside and really dont want to freeze my cheeks off putting them on even though I'm quite capable. Guess I'll swing by and get an estimate before venturing off and doing it myself. I wish I had a frickin garage....working in the street sucks!
 
AIMWO4 said:
Piece o' cake. If you are doing the pads, might as well just slap the rotors on. I haven't done mine yet, but I would imagine you could find the DIY in the Mazda3 section.
Click to expand...

Ok saw the write up and saw I dont have half of those tools so I checked at my local shop and since I know the guy he said $120....anyone else $175....Sh*t! Sounds good to me!I was thinking at least $200. Thanks for letting me know about the DIY on the Mazda 3. Saved me some time and aggravation....I would have been up Sh*t creek if I would have had it apart and needed to go get other tools. ( no other car at home till 5pm )(attention)
 
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I just replaced my front and rear rotors. It's very easy to do. All you need are socket and allen wrenches.
 
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Kid5 said:
I wish I had a frickin garage....working in the street sucks!
Click to expand...
and if Reading is like the Lehigh Valley (and I think it is) you can get ticketed for performing car maintenance in the street. in Easton, strictly applying the way the law is written, even changing a flat tire is not permitted.
still, I've changed my oil, done brakes, even valve cover gaskets and altenator swaps in the street.
sometimes I've borrowed a garage, but that's a huge hassle also.
 
Well got the 5 back from the garage. I guess I have to break the brakes in because they arent as grabby as they were before. My GF hated when I would hit the brakes because they were so touchy (visualize seatbelt welts across chest)They look great.(the rotors...not the welt marks)
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Yeah in Reading, its the same as up in the Lehigh Valley..I've done work in the street before also. What sucks for me is there is a District Justice at the corner and there are cops around all the time and there is one cop in particular who seems hate Tuners. I've been told 2 times to not do auto repair in the street and no ticket....dont want to chance it the 3rd time. Took the Shop an hour....I'm sure I would have taken longer and bloodied a knuckle or 2.
 
you should spend some time 'bedding' in the brakes, otherwise thy will glaze over. I'm sure a google search will get a better description than I can write on how to do it properly.
 
To bed the brakes in, take the car on a nice long strech of road where there isn't much traffic. Take the car up to 45-50MPH then brake rather hard down to about 15-20MPH and re-accelerate up to 45-50MPH. Do this about 10 times, then drive around normally for a few minutes allowing the brakes to cool down. They will be bed in.
 
Well the mechanic said he took it out to test the brakes....I dont think he did this bedding you talk about because I think he went out for italian sandwiches because that's what the car smelled like. After I take the kids to school I'll try this. Thanks.....Speakin of school......It's the coolest feeling to have high schoolers drooling over a mini van....My kids come home and tell me everyday somebody told them that your Dad's car is hot....and I always say....They do know its a minivan right? And to have their friends over and my oldest telling them he's getting my car when he gets his license...I dont think so Homeboy.
 
Ok just finished bedding the rotors...It does grab alot better so thanks for the advice...I took pictures after and the rotors seem to be darker in color...which I guess is a good thing. Now....for some advice....dont eat anything before venturing off to do this...all I had was an english muffin with butter and a cup of coffee and I swore I was going to throw it up....I finished this excercise lighted headed and disoriented. But who gives a Sh!t...the 5 stops like a champ now.Thanks again for the advice.....This board rocks!(band)(attention)

p.s. I did freak out when I was going down hill doing this and seeing smoke come from the rotors....than I thought....maybe this isnt a good excercise going down hill. Too Late


Before bedding front rotor
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After bedding front rotor
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Rear Rotor before bedding
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Rear Rotor after bedding
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.
 
While I agree with bedding in the new brakes, I have heard others say, and always do myself, to allow the brakes to cool between each hard stop, rather than doing 10 stops in a row.

Opinions?
 
Kid5 said:
Ok saw the write up and saw I dont have half of those tools so I checked at my local shop and since I know the guy he said $120....anyone else $175....Sh*t! Sounds good to me!I was thinking at least $200. Thanks for letting me know about the DIY on the Mazda 3. Saved me some time and aggravation....I would have been up Sh*t creek if I would have had it apart and needed to go get other tools. ( no other car at home till 5pm )(attention)
Click to expand...

Paid $109 for the rotors at the parts store and had my bro help me install them. 5 lugnuts and 2 bolts holding the caliper on each side. Not sure what extra tools you're talking about although a spreader is generally required to spread the pads for the new thicker rotor. Even if you're missing the spreader, you can probably jimmy it wider with a block of wood.

As for a10thunder, why'd you need allen wrenches? I only changed the fronts, does the rears require allen wrenches?
 
Did you guys check the Mazda 3 section? Brake job by a Volvo owner on something other than a Mazda 5? I can't believe we don't have a "DIY" for front and rear brakes....

Only tool needed to change the front pads on a Mazda 5 is a T47 torx wrench. I searched the forum and couldn't find this info anywhere.

Of course you'll need the standard stuff; Jack, stands, flat screw driver, large clamp, lug wrench....... and about 1 hour.

I didn't document each step; but it was pretty easy and straight forward. Screws where you use the T47 are hidden behind two plastic plugs. Other than that everything else is right in front of you...... hope this helps..... I may do it again and take some pic's....
 
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The pads are needing to be replaced on our 5 and I wanted to do it this weekend. How do you know if the rotors need to be replaced as well? They aren't too bumpy (pretty smooth) and I read that rotors should last 2 sets of pads; this being the original set of pads.

I'll try and remember to take some photos of my bumbling steps to replace pads for the first time in 15 years. What are the recommended pads and rotor brands? I want to buy from TireRack if possible, unless they are cheaper at the local car parts store.
 
If you don't have a big lip on the outside edge of the rotors or a pulsing brake pedal, you should be safe with the old rotors. There is a link to the Mazda5 Maint Manul on here if you are looking for specs and have a tool to measure it. The job is pretty easy if you have done it before. Open the bleeder before resetting the caliper pistons. ABS systems don't like back pressure. Make sure you have brake fluid around, and a way to bleed the system after install. Just poke around the 3 forum and sponsors to decide on what pads you think are best for you. Everyone has an opinion.

Kid Red said:
The pads are needing to be replaced on our 5 and I wanted to do it this weekend. How do you know if the rotors need to be replaced as well? They aren't too bumpy (pretty smooth) and I read that rotors should last 2 sets of pads; this being the original set of pads.

I'll try and remember to take some photos of my bumbling steps to replace pads for the first time in 15 years. What are the recommended pads and rotor brands? I want to buy from TireRack if possible, unless they are cheaper at the local car parts store.
Click to expand...
 
AIMWO4 said:
If you don't have a big lip on the outside edge of the rotors or a pulsing brake pedal, you should be safe with the old rotors. There is a link to the Mazda5 Maint Manul on here if you are looking for specs and have a tool to measure it. The job is pretty easy if you have done it before. Open the bleeder before resetting the caliper pistons. ABS systems don't like back pressure. Make sure you have brake fluid around, and a way to bleed the system after install. Just poke around the 3 forum and sponsors to decide on what pads you think are best for you. Everyone has an opinion.
Click to expand...

Ah, so I do have to bleed the brakes, it's been so long since I've done it myself, I wasn't sure. The steering wheel pulsates at high speeds when applying the brakes but I don't recall any associated pedal movement. Also, I didn't notice any lip on the rotor's edge. Do the rotors need to be replaced?
 
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