The CX-5 LED Lighting Thread

Besides the LED, what is the difference between the added accessory and stock?

Stock is just halogen bulb on tailgate itself, nothing in the cargo bay itself, so you rely on the lights above the rear passenger seat
 
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Stock is just halogen bulb on tailgate itself, nothing in the cargo bay itself, so you rely on the lights above the rear passenger seat

KE CX-5 has one light in the Cargo Area not on the underside of the tailgate. So I assume the accessory on the KF/G adds 2 lights either side of the cargo area + LED?
 
KE CX-5 has one light in the Cargo Area not on the underside of the tailgate. So I assume the accessory on the KF/G adds 2 lights either side of the cargo area + LED?

Sort of. 2 LEDs either side of the cargo bay (as per my photo) are the accessory + halogen on underside of tailgate which is the only stock light.

Below is a extract for changing the underside tailgate bulb (I've highlighted the picture of the tailgate bulb location):

33y12md.jpg
 
Question about the wiring to the connectors on the rear of the LED headlights from late 2016 on:

There’s 2 circular grey sockets - one for the main and dipped beam, the other for the DRL lights (and then there’s the range motor connector and so on). Can anyone give me the pin out for the connectors please - there’s 5 wires going to the main/dipped beam unit, so I’m presuming there’s a +12v feed for low beam, one for main beam, an earth and then a LIN bus and data bus wires, but which is which??
 
Do you have a part number for this? I want this!

EDIT: I think i found it, TC11ACCLT. Looks like it's only for 2017+ models :/ (I have a 2016)

Cargo illumination here was only introduced on 2017+ KF/KG CX-5s
 
I had that one dealer fitted plus the carpet that extends out over the rear 'bumper'.

I pick relatives up from airport occasionally and I'm trying to save the paint work from scratches when they drag their bags out the back.
 
I had that one dealer fitted plus the carpet that extends out over the rear 'bumper'.

I pick relatives up from airport occasionally and I'm trying to save the paint work from scratches when they drag their bags out the back.

My boot space is now very well illuminated :)

I just have a new bathroom carpet mat that I extend out over the bumper. Saved myself $$$ and does the job perfectly
 
Can I use a relay instead of a resistor on a '17 GT? I was a little confused on how to go about this since the LED turn signals on the side view mirrors are already in sync with the current halogen turn signals.

On the GT i'm looking at 7440na amber for the front and rears. Remember that's for the GT only with LED lighting. The touring's use 7444na on the front's I believe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
and also purchase a set of resistors, but like I said if I can use a relay i'd rather do that.
 
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Can I use a relay instead of a resistor on a '17 GT? I was a little confused on how to go about this since the LED turn signals on the side view mirrors are already in sync with the current halogen turn signals.

On the GT i'm looking at 7440na amber for the front and rears. Remember that's for the GT only with LED lighting. The touring's use 7444na on the front's I believe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
and also purchase a set of resistors, but like I said if I can use a relay i'd rather do that.

Maybe this thread might help (uhm)

Turn Signals on 2017
 
Will the TYC led tail lights made to be copies of OEM fit my 2015 to convert to LED? I know there are folks on here somewhere who have used the genuine OEM Mazda parts to do so but they are over $100 more each
 
Will the TYC led tail lights made to be copies of OEM fit my 2015 to convert to LED? I know there are folks on here somewhere who have used the genuine OEM Mazda parts to do so but they are over $100 more each
Usually those aftermarket LED tail lights are compatible with OEM LED or non-LED tail lights. But check with manufacture or seller making sure the unit is indeed compatible.
 
^ that's pretty cool actually. I put LEDs bulbs in mine but like you said its not the full array of LEDs.

By any chance have you seen a plug and play LED module for the "interior rear hatch area"? I broke the plastic clip so now the module is hanging by the wire. I'd rather get something like the above vs OEM replacement.
 
^ that's pretty cool actually. I put LEDs bulbs in mine but like you said its not the full array of LEDs.

By any chance have you seen a plug and play LED module for the "interior rear hatch area"? I broke the plastic clip so now the module is hanging by the wire. I'd rather get something like the above vs OEM replacement.

Nope. I out an led bulb in there and it popped out over time into oblivion. Very poor design, even the oem bulb flickers from inssecure contact
 
I bought h7 led bulb (the gold one)for my cx5 but the plug didn't fit.
I couldn't install it on.
Any solutions to make it can be installed and works normally?
I don't want to return or refund.
What I got is not bad in quality and it's cheap.
And it's very troublesome for me to ship it back and choose another one.
Any solution???(hand)
 
I bought h7 led bulb (the gold one)for my cx5 but the plug didn't fit.
I couldn't install it on.
Any solutions to make it can be installed and works normally?
I don't want to return or refund.
What I got is not bad in quality and it's cheap.
And it's very troublesome for me to ship it back and choose another one.
Any solution???(hand)

I mean if it's the cooling fins that make it not fit you can always Dremel them down.. But I'd probably take the L and return them. At $90 I'd probably take the $15 loss. If the bulb assembly itself is too long, SOL. I had some DRLS that I had to return because the diameter of the bulb assembly (LEDS SMD) was just barely wide enough it wouldn't fit through the socket.
 
Hi All,

Been following this thread for a little while and have been trying to figure out what I could do for my '18 Touring as far as LED conversions go for the turn signals, interior lights, etc.

As many of you know, the Touring doesn't come with all the cool bells and whistles that the Grand Touring does. The turn signals are the ugly amber incandescent bulbs and the interior lights are incandescent fuse type bulbs. I'm able to report that I've been able to successfully convert all of the bulbs to LED. TL;DR below!


Interior Lights:
I picked up a set from iJDMtoy, they sent me a link which included a full conversion of the interior
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Premium-SMD-LED-Car-Interior-Lights-Package-For-p/smd-mazda-cx5.htm
I also converted the vanity lights which wasn't really a great idea as the blindingly bright white LED does not flatter the look of your face in the mirror. Overall, the interior lights give off a nice luxurious whiteish tone that helps to make the car look like it's worth more than it is, but, probably doesn't offer more light than your standard interior bulb. Consider looking for a warmer light temperature per your preference. I don't really care though-- it looks fancy! Simple installation instructions can be found on youtube or with a quick google search. Just need a small enough flathead and some tape to keep from scratching the plastics. I also threw in the rear license plate LEDs for good measure.


Tail/Stop Lights:
I went ahead and went with the 7443 HP48 Red bulb from Diode Dynamics.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/tail-light-leds-for-2013-2018-mazda-cx-5-pair.html
Because this is not a turn signal, it requires no resistor-- simple plug and play installation. I tried for a brighter HP11 but the bulb is too tall and it didn't look too much brighter than the HP48 (I forced it in and didn't really see much of a difference).


Front Turn Signals:
The big one. The one people always have questions about. I went with Diode Dynamics dual color switchback (amber/white) 7443 HP24.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/7443-hp24-switchback-dual-color-led-pair.html
This did require a resistor kit (to prevent hyperflash) that I hooked up with the provided vampire wire taps. The job was a bit difficult, but, with small hands the job was manageable from under the hood. The wires that needed tapping were the red/white which serves as power to the flasher wire (checked for intermittent 12V on and off reading) and blue (will check and edit later if wrong) for the ground wire. One resistor per bulb. Mounted with double sided tape on a flat surface close to the plugs away from contact with other wires. The look is amazing-- it makes the headlight look like one entire piece (hard to really explain) since it's uniformly LED white all across. The switchback mechanism is great.

73375-AE7-7-FF3-4743-B740-539-BD2436-D70.gif



Rear Turn Signals:
A lot of the research I did mentioned that there was no space for a resistor in the rear-- which is very true. Behind the tail light assembly there is absolutely no space. It is flush against the body. Further digging led me to the idea that there HAS to be space "inside." What does this mean? Pop open the trunk, lift the floor mat, and carefully take the trim off from the center and peel some of the trim off the sides to reveal the wiring that comes from inside and goes out to the tail light assembly. See this video that goes over trailer installation (https://youtu.be/2aLBMQMDI7M) and look through the CX-5 shop manual (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jsfodu8z5090obv/AACCIk5AVaPA8-I_OWeUbZ_Za?dl=0 go to Workshop Manuals -> Body and Accessories -> Interior Trim -> Trunk End Trim and Trunk Side Trim Removal) for reference. That being said, I used another 7443 bulb, however, I opted for Red and also went up in brightness to the HP11 that I originally wanted to use for the Stop/Tail light.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/tail-light-leds-for-2013-2018-mazda-cx-5-pair.html
I wired the resistors (yep, more resistors) to the green/white and black wires-- the only wires attached to the turn signal fitting.

David Paul! I found your thread which I will link to in this post. Thank you so much for your input! I had thought I looked everywhere but I didnt. Your location (under the housing, behind the bumper) works well too! Alas, it was too late for me, but, I am also happy with where I placed it. https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...s-Conversion&p=6608298&highlight=#post6608298

748733-D9-403-D-4-A17-BB6-C-B53-AF5-A109-FA.gif


Side Marker:
I used the HP3 LEDs from Diode Dynamics for these as well. Pretty painless except the leads were long and the fit was so tight that I had to cut the half that curls over the end of the bulb. Also, some mild contortionist skills help.

All in all, I'm very happy with the conversion over to LED. I didn't want to go with iffy off brands you'd find on ebay for my exterior lights nor did i want to spend an arm and a leg on the fancy VLEDs that need no resistor. I'm sorry I didn't make a DIY guide or a step-by-step documented installation procedure for this.. with a little know-how and some determination, you can convert over to LEDs too! More power to you if you can solder wires for a better connection! I can't solder to save my life.


TL;DR:
- Yes, you need one resistor for each turn signal you replace.
- No, there is no Flasher Relay to avoid using resistors-- the turn signals do not use a relay, instead, have a weird body control module thingy. I tried my best to locate the clicking sound from the turn signals.
- 7443 size LEDs were used all around for the front switchback turn signals, rear tail/stop lights, and rear turn signals.
- Yes, they are adequately bright
 
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