Shift control rod

flowfish

Member
:
2003 Protege5
Hello, could use some direction....my shifter is rattling like crazy, I investigated and found that the bushings around the riveted pin on the shift control rod are gone and there is a lot of play and rattle on it...pretty sure that is my problem. Only issue is that it is a riveted pin so I can't just unbolt and replace the bushings. I asked a Mazda dealer and they said they only sell the entire shift mechanism from the actual shifter down and both rods....for $350. I've checked around at pull-a-part places with no luck...any other ideas? Any way to replace the bushings around the pin? Picture below of the part I'm talking about, the left red arrow (not my car, just found the pic online).

http://www.carinstructions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Mazda-Transmission-linkage.jpg

Mazda-Transmission-linkage.jpg




Mazda-Transmission-linkage.jpg
 
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So far as I remember, you drill out the pin (or a grinder)
Replace the bushing then install a bolt in place of the pin.
 
The biggest problem is that the pin goes through a metal sleeve and likes to rust solid then you have to pound the pin out and maybe remove the whole assembly to press it out.
 
Really so I just take out the pin and replace with a normal nut/bolt? I really wonder why they didn't do that in the first place. Guess I should replace the bushings all around if I'm going that far right?
 
Really so I just take out the pin and replace with a normal nut/bolt? ...

Yes,... Ideally,
But the pin likes to seize in the metal sleeve then everything starts to spin.
The yoke is on the outside making it hard to reach in between.


A pic for reference ( not our car ..but...)

 
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This is what you guys in California see when you take your shift linkage apart...







This is what us in the salty north east see...

 
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I'll be doing this after I do the shifter bushings first. thanks for the pics, gives you a couple points of view. What do you refer to hen you say yolk tho. That's confusing as hell. You basically want to grind or cut off the square from the bolt? I did see the tab you guys mentioned on the picture. I always go with the flow and deal with things on the fly but that tends to make things take even longer.
 
.... What do you refer to when you say yolk tho. That's confusing as hell. You basically want to grind or cut off the square from the bolt? I did see the tab you guys mentioned on the picture.

The tab is welded to the "yoke"...

If you use a grinder to remove the square, there is about 3 or 4 threads left catching on the "yoke".

You can pry the yoke open to release it, but you'll bend it an have to bend it back.

This pic of my strut may shed some light...
The bolt head broke off and the remaining threads were catching on the strut..

I had to spread it open with a chisel then reach in with my saws all to cut it and remove it.
(the strut being like a yoke)






You only want to remove the metal in the crack...
You don't want to cut into the "yoke" or the shift linkage.

Same goes with drilling... If you're going to drill through an inch of material, you better be dead square or you'll drill into the "yoke" or shift linkage..

PS... I'm pretty sure the metal sleeve is one piece with our OEM bushings... (unlike Cork sports version)



Remember, your pin may just pop right out in two minutes,.. or it can be seized and take two days or weeks if the pin is seized as hell and won't remove from the rusted sleeve.

Start soaking it down with penetrating oil either way ,.. even if your doing the work a month from now.
Throw some heat on it too when it's time to work on it ,... Fire is always good !!
 
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I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.
 
I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.

What he said ^^^

Just a few bucks for four and a regular bolt...



KIA parts # for reference...
 
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The tab is welded to the "yoke"...

If you use a grinder to remove the square, there is about 3 or 4 threads left catching on the "yoke".

You can pry the yoke open to release it, but you'll bend it an have to bend it back.


You only want to remove the metal in the crack...
You don't want to cut into the "yoke" or the shift linkage.

Same goes with drilling... If you're going to drill through an inch of material, you better be dead square or you'll drill into the "yoke" or shift linkage..

PS... I'm pretty sure the metal sleeve is one piece with our OEM bushings... (unlike Cork sports version)



Remember, your pin may just pop right out in two minutes,.. or it can be seized and take two days or weeks if the pin is seized as hell and won't remove from the rusted sleeve.

Start soaking it down with penetrating oil either way ,.. even if your doing the work a month from now.
Throw some heat on it too when it's time to work on it ,... Fire is always good !!

Ahh ok I kinda see what youre getting at. Good to know and most def with the penetrating fluid.
I've heard fire is good but don't have a torch handy.

I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.

I have those as they came with the short shifter I purchased from a fellow user but in the end it's plastic. I rather have something more durable. Plus all the work i've done to the car has been a restore in a sense. Swapping out all the parts that wear out.
 
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...Picture below of the part I'm talking about, the left red arrow (not my car, just found the pic online).

The pictures I posted (stole) were of the pin on the right arrow... a square bolt and a hex nut..
Although you may want to replace those bushings too.

You may be able to cut, or drill, the round head off the pin and push it out easily.

 
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I've heard fire is good but don't have a torch handy...

They're relatively cheap...

Just don't set your car on fire.!!
Always watch for gas lines and the gas tank..



This is Canadian dollars too... You guys will pay less than ten...
 
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Thinking about it some more,... That pin may be like a "shoulder bolt" and the holes through the "yoke" may be different sizes meaning the pin may only press out in one direction.

 
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I just used a big ass drill bit and went to town. Drilled the entire damn thing out. It is a lot easier if you take the entire thing out of the car and do it on a workbench. I had a spare 1/2" or 9/16 grade 8 bolt laying around (whatever size is in there, I'm sure someone here knows) that the bushings fit perfect on. I did have to grind the head of the bolt down some to keep it from rattling on the cross member when it was installed (it's a pretty close fit) but that was right after I first bought the car a few years ago and it's been perfectly fine ever since. I believe I also used nut that was designed for exhaust manifold studs (self-locking) and I put a ton of red loc-tite on there as well.
 
Just wanted to follow-up, I was able to remove the whole shift rod, the bolt that connects to the shift linkage came off really easy. I feel bad for you guys that are rusted out, mine was really clean (South Louisiana car). Per the instructions in the Corksport 3rd link kit I ground the thinner head off the riveted pin, then had to drill a good bit of the head out until it finally spun. I banged on it for a while with a punch with a 17mm socket under the other side of the pin until it finally came out. It was a real PITA and I kinda bent/scratched the yoke up but it came out. I replaced all the bushings and man what a difference. No more play in the shifter when it is in gear, no more rattle, everything feels so much tighter and responsive. Thanks for all the help! I've got a before/after video, will try to figure out how to post it.

Here is the before/after video:

https://streamable.com/ctg1q
 
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