100K miles, and stuff needs done...here's what!

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RDX Aspec Adv.
Took my CX5 in for the oil change at 102,XXXmi, and they suggested:

-Replace accessory belt "in the near future, say, next oil change-ish" (they showed me the cracks in it, I agree with their opinion.). $160 including tax
-Replace valve cover gasket later on, monitor for now. (They showed me some seepage/weeping/humidity looking stuff, and I concur, in another 15-20K miles, it may be "a thing".) $130ish
-Change brake fluid, 3% humidity (agree, meant to do it before). $130ish
-Change air filter, is dirty (I forget when I did it last, not more than 25K miles ago, but hey, it was dirty looking) I don't recall cost.
-Change plugs (First time mentioned to me, I did it already though). $300ish...WTF!?
-Fuel System cleaning (no rationale, I view this as a useless "upcharge", and they did not push it at all, just had it on the sheet.). $160ish


Today I opted to do the brake fluid, air filter, and will do the acc. belt next oil change (7500mi), and the valve cover gasket at around 115-125K miles. I remember on my G20, I had to do this, too, as it was weeping.

All-in-all, I found the things "going bad" on my vehicle to be pretty "it's a machine, man..." type stuff and am not at all put off by it thus far. Also, the dealer recommendations were very sound and free of BS, and noone had any issue showing me the things mentioned, all except the fuel system cleaning, which they did not push and the mechanic did not speak to me about.

I do not know how difficult it is to change the acc. belt on this thing, but I will look into it. Even if you paid the dealership costs, it's still super cheap to have owned for 102K miles. My Jeep required $150 in diff servicing every 15K miles, and the Transfer case $120ish ever 25-30K miles.
 
Yea thats all pretty normal stuff to see on a car of that mileage imo. Definitely not anything I would find alarming.

The plugs have a 100k mile interval I believe so if you did it yourself they might just be recommending based on mileage if they didnt know it was done.

I plan to do brake fluid about every 3 years.
 
OR you could have traded it in for $9500 and just got a enw one?!?! :(
Dude...

hahaha
 
Took my CX5 in for the oil change at 102,XXXmi, and they suggested:
My Mazda dealer would suggest ATF drain-and-fill at 100K miles.

Not surprised on $300ish charge for spark plug replacement as the OEM plug costs $32.27 each. Maintenance schedule for spark plugs on NA 2.5L is 75K miles. For 2.5T its 40K miles.

There are 2 drive belts for 2.5L. Make sure your dealer is replacing both, not just serpentine belt. Ask them to check tensioner too.

Another maintenance item soon willp be due is the engine coolant: at 120K miles.
 
Took my CX5 in for the oil change at 102,XXXmi, and they suggested:

-Replace accessory belt "in the near future, say, next oil change-ish" (they showed me the cracks in it, I agree with their opinion.). $160 including tax
-Replace valve cover gasket later on, monitor for now. (They showed me some seepage/weeping/humidity looking stuff, and I concur, in another 15-20K miles, it may be "a thing".) $130ish
-Change brake fluid, 3% humidity (agree, meant to do it before). $130ish
-Change air filter, is dirty (I forget when I did it last, not more than 25K miles ago, but hey, it was dirty looking) I don't recall cost.
-Change plugs (First time mentioned to me, I did it already though). $300ish...WTF!?
-Fuel System cleaning (no rationale, I view this as a useless "upcharge", and they did not push it at all, just had it on the sheet.). $160ish


Today I opted to do the brake fluid, air filter, and will do the acc. belt next oil change (7500mi), and the valve cover gasket at around 115-125K miles. I remember on my G20, I had to do this, too, as it was weeping.

All-in-all, I found the things "going bad" on my vehicle to be pretty "it's a machine, man..." type stuff and am not at all put off by it thus far. Also, the dealer recommendations were very sound and free of BS, and noone had any issue showing me the things mentioned, all except the fuel system cleaning, which they did not push and the mechanic did not speak to me about.

I do not know how difficult it is to change the acc. belt on this thing, but I will look into it. Even if you paid the dealership costs, it's still super cheap to have owned for 102K miles. My Jeep required $150 in diff servicing every 15K miles, and the Transfer case $120ish ever 25-30K miles.

Imho: Change your cracked belt if they recommend (wow thats a cheap price they quoted?!) and brake fluid. Have them do it.

+1 on belt tensioner.

Spark plugs I'm pretty sure you can do yourself. You merely need to buy a Ford spark plug removal tool (or right sized one) if I recall. Otherwise negotiate on service pricing at dealership. Check for online dealership service coupons.

Valve cover gasket having some weepage at that mileage is normal for a lot of cars. imho bypass this for now. Simply wipe clean all edges of cover gasket and track every oil change. If it simply weeps a little bit every oil change then its normal. If its to the point its dripping then change. I believe it does not require a lot of technical expertise to do so.
 
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Its not a bad idea to replace the tensioner too when you get the belts replaced. If you do the replacement belts will probably last as long as the first set.

Not sure if that tensioner will go to 200k. Then again if youre only planning to keep the car another year or so......
 
Agreed on Tensioner. Had to replace it earlier this year, and went ahead and had a new serpentine belt put on at the same time.
 
How difficult is it to replace both belts and tensioner?
 
How difficult is it to replace both belts and tensioner?

Personally, I didn't have the right tools and didn't want to mess with it, so I paid and got it done at a shop. Didn't seem to take them long as I was there for maybe an hour?

I think there are some folks on here who did it themselves though who could chime in.
 
Imho: Change your cracked belt if they recommend (wow thats a cheap price they quoted?!) and brake fluid. Have them do it.

+1 on belt tensioner.

Hopefully not just a turkey baster replacement of fluid in master cylinder... as paranoid as I can be I'd post check the work and pop the rubber protector cap off a sample bleeder to make sure they actually did it.
 
Hopefully not just a turkey baster replacement of fluid in master cylinder... as paranoid as I can be I'd post check the work and pop the rubber protector cap off a sample bleeder to make sure they actually did it.

I trust 'em. They do good work. My brakes felt amazing afterward, too. Much firmer pedal!
 
I can remember when you were quite cynical about your CX5 Unob*. I think you*ve warmed to it and it certainly hasn*t hampered any of the work you*ve done on the ranch. I wish I could be so disciplined about wasting money on new cars.
 
I can remember when you were quite cynical about your CX5 Unob*. I think you*ve warmed to it and it certainly hasn*t hampered any of the work you*ve done on the ranch. I wish I could be so disciplined about wasting money on new cars.

Hes cool now that they make one thats not slow. ;)
 
He*s cool now that they make one that*s not slow. ;)

Pretty much. They have a legit world class product, just like they did in 2015 when I got mine. The 2017 and 2018 models disgusted me. The GTR and Sig again make me feel like Mazda is punching far above their weight.
 
I can remember when you were quite cynical about your CX5 Unob*. I think you*ve warmed to it and it certainly hasn*t hampered any of the work you*ve done on the ranch. I wish I could be so disciplined about wasting money on new cars.

Yes, indeed. I am quite pleased with both the cost of ownership and how its held up. I plan to take it to around 200k miles. I gave it a lot of thought, and Im still not ready to endorse it as "super reliable", as it only has 102k on it, but after 120k it is an auction car, so dealer doesnt care if tires are bald or not. I will change tires 1 more time (140k?) And when the brakes reach 2mm on the rear, trade it in. Based on the last 3 years and 102k miles, I predict 175 to 200k miles is where these criteria will occur. If it begins losing multiple parts like wheel bearings, cv joints, etc. It will give me pause, but if it goes strong until the point outlined, I will confidently buy a CPO GTR.
 
Pretty much. They have a legit world class product, just like they did in 2015 when I got mine. The 2017 and 2018 models disgusted me. The GTR and Sig again make me feel like Mazda is punching far above their weight.
Completely agree. Gen 2 really disgusted me too when compared to Gen 1. But I can't argue that Mazda is as you say punching high again with their GTR and Sig. I may still hate the overall style and product direction, but can't argue with that.
 
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