What have you done to your P5 today?

The modding fun never stops.
Was bored last night so my buddy came over with his welding equipment and we cut out the resonator and fabbed in some 2.25 inch piping in its place, welded it up and off I go.
Weeeeee!
Didn't cost me a cent as my buddy had everything. Free mods, yep. (2thumbs)
Surprisingly quiet considering.
Oh that sounds badass... Notice any difference driving ?
 
Found an MSP at a junkyard about an hour away last weekend, so I drove up and grabbed some parts. Scored a stock MSP turbo, uncracked manifold, S pipe, oil feed line, water lines on the turbo, 03.5 pedals, MSP ECU, 03.5 shift boot and rear MSP brake calipers for $150 total. Now I have everything I need to turbo the P5! Planning to return to grab the rear subframe, rear racing beat swaybar and possibly the transmission and MBSP since they are already pulled from the car.

Picked up some used 2010 MZ6 rotors so I am planning to install the MSP rear calipers with the MZ6 rotors and grab some MZ6 front calipers for the P5. Considering getting some stainless brake lines as well.

Had a chance to install the new passenger rear door this week, and need to pull the bumper and fender so I can swap the front door to match.

Otherwise the P5 has been running great. It's still very slow but pretty fun to drive.
 
found an msp at a junkyard about an hour away last weekend, so i drove up and grabbed some parts. Scored a stock msp turbo, uncracked manifold, s pipe, oil feed line, water lines on the turbo, 03.5 pedals, msp ecu, 03.5 shift boot and rear msp brake calipers for $150 total. Now i have everything i need to turbo the p5! Planning to return to grab the rear subframe, rear racing beat swaybar and possibly the transmission and mbsp since they are already pulled from the car.

Picked up some used 2010 mz6 rotors so i am planning to install the msp rear calipers with the mz6 rotors and grab some mz6 front calipers for the p5. Considering getting some stainless brake lines as well.

Had a chance to install the new passenger rear door this week, and need to pull the bumper and fender so i can swap the front door to match.

Otherwise the p5 has been running great. It's still very slow but pretty fun to drive.

damn, nice score
 
Well my P5 sang her final song and took her last breath tonight.

Got hit by a lady running a yellow light when i was turning left today and car is totalled.

My first car, and damn what a great first car to have. Loved it to death. Unfortunate another P5 and a Laaer Blue are out of existence.

Dont know what car ill have next, but we will see.
 
Cut my shift linkage. The pin is just deadlocked. Ugh.
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Just thinkin...
Try reefing a Vicegrip on the threads showing of the pin and see if you can rotate it to break it free...
Hehe yeah, it's been a week of pullers, hammers, clamps, grips and swearing, then I noticed the crap weld on it, realized it was cut once before and just applied a cutting wheel ( gently ? ). Very very satisfying to cut and chuck.. when I finally drop the transmission I am going to have a closer look at it.

The one from the parts car actually came out with a puller first try. Go figure.
 
Oh that sounds badass... Notice any difference driving ?

Thanks. I'm really liking it so far. Glad it's not as loud as I thought it would be.
So after driving around for a week or so, I do notice a bit more people pep which I was not expecting at all. I thought for sure I would lose a little bottom end. Used 2.25 inch pipe. Nope. Actually feels like a decent increase in the low to mid rpm range. 3rd gear seems much more responsive all around.
Car is still slow but just not as slow haha. Slow and low keeps me from getting into (too much)trouble. Didn't buy the car for speed anyways. Handling all the way for me.
Sorry to hear about the car taco.
 
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Well my P5 sang her final song and took her last breath tonight.

Got hit by a lady running a yellow light when i was turning left today and car is totalled.

My first car, and damn what a great first car to have. Loved it to death. Unfortunate another P5 and a Laaer Blue are out of existence.

Dont know what car ill have next, but we will see.

Damn, and right after you got the turbo setup done. I am sorry to hear that. That is my worst nightmare for my MSP after all the time and money I have put into it.

Went back to the junkyard last week and grabbed the upper grill, racing bear rear swaybar, MSP transmission and turbo MBSP. Completely forgot to grab the factory alarm so I may get one online or go back for it yet again, and finish removing the rear subframe as well so I can install that on the P5.

Also picked up some 10 MZ6 front calipers, just have to get some pads and get the rotors turned to install the 6 front and MSP rear brakes. Considering getting stainless lines as well.

Have started putting together the rest of the parts needed for the turbo setup. Can't decide if I want to run the stock SMIC and rad from my MSP (would need a new rad bc it has a small crack and a hot pipe since I gave the stock one away years ago) or just order an Ebay FMIC kit and run that instead.
 
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Also picked up some 10 MZ6 front calipers, just have to get some pads and get the rotors turned to install the 6 front and MSP rear brakes. Considering getting stainless lines as well.


Does a Mazda 6 caliper bolt on like a Mazda 626? I just upgraded to 626 calipers, sounds like I may have made a mistake. Aftermarket support for the Mazda 6 is much better than the aging 626.
 
Nice wheel. Complete with Mazda emblem.

So my car been running really nice lately then out of nowhere this happens.
Any ideas what it could be? I have a new battery, starter, plugs, wires, coils and the alternator checks out fine. No alarm or high end stereo. All stock.
I can't afford the, "Well we'll replace a bunch of parts until we find it." game the mechanics play around here.
Crankshaft sensor?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
 
Any ideas what it could be?

Your transaxle range switch (ATX) may have malfunctioned or went out of alignment.
Or your starter interlock switch (MTX) may have failed.
Check to see if you've got +12 V on the control wire going to your starter, while you hold the key at start position.
Check your connections on the starter motor.

Your engine would still turn over if you had a bad crank sensor.
 
Your transaxle range switch (ATX) may have malfunctioned or went out of alignment.
Or your starter interlock switch (MTX) may have failed.
Check to see if you've got +12 V on the control wire going to your starter, while you hold the key at start position.
Check your connections on the starter motor.

Your engine would still turn over if you had a bad crank sensor.

Thank you. That's great to know about the crankshaft sensor. I was thinking that was it. Ok so I just installed a new starter thinking that was the problem. When taking out the old one and reinstalling the new everything looked in perfect shape. Everything came out and went back together with no issues.
When trying to start I do notice when I press the clutch I hear a click, but no clicking when not pressing the clutch. Thanks again
 
That would suggest that your clutch switch is working...

This thread had the same issue..
Turned out to be the connector not plugged in properly..

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123862285-No-Crank-No-Start-Help-Please!

hmm... I hope its that simple. Like in that guys post, my car has been down for a week now. I will get under there again and make sure the connector in plugged in correctly and make sure the bolt is properly fastened as well. Wish me luck!

Thank you very much for the help.
 
Well, just got under there and everything looks great. Bolt nice and tight. Plug firmly in place. I even unplugged it and turned it around. Still dead. (nailbyt)
Stumped...
 
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