What have you done to your CX-5 today?

The last tires I replaced in the Volvo had those wear indicators. Is that at 2/32s anyone know? Or does it vary?
 
For me the 4/32's was tied to store policy and personal safety. On one hand I was at 5/32 on the worst tire they checked and short of their policy to refund a tire that had premature wear. My understanding was that if my tires had been at 4/32's and lets say only 50,000 miles for a 70,000 mile tread life they would have given me some sort of prorated refund. A coworker recently got $300 off on his Michelins because they were at 4/32s with lower miles. I think they prorate the mileage difference somehow. The guy at Discount still gave me a $25 refund on each tire and a $75 rebate was available for the Michelins. I just could not get as much refund because their policy was at 4/32.

Had it been summer I would have rotated the back tires to the front and tried to go a little longer, but safety to me is not worth the risk. It was spinning out at really bad on damp pavement and as mentioned the worst was having the front slide a bit in a turn on an intersection even at slower speed. So while I hated to shell out the cash at Christmas time I felt it best to put some value on my own life or those in traffic next to me and their property as well.

Driving this morning on damp pavement and not a single slip and cornering at higher speed felt confident once again. Hate buying new tires, but absolutely love feeling a little more confident. Talking to a guy that raced cars years ago about performance cars he said something like, "I don't care how much horsepower, torque or performance a car may tout, if you don't have good tires it means nothing." Or something to that effect. Cycling crashes have influenced me the most.

The tires on my bikes are expensive. My first severe crash in 2004 was from my bike going out from under me in a hard turn. The tires were the crappiest that one could get and I paid the price for it in flesh and medical costs. Lesson learned at a high price. Coming off a mountain descent at sometimes over 50mph with a 23mm tire @110psi you kind of want some good stuff. I've also crashed at 40mph coming down a mountain in 2007 and it ain't no fun at all. I invest in good tires and just hope that I avoid a spot of gravel...ugh.

Edit: Online the certificate policy says 3/32. I am pretty sure the guy at our store told me 4/32 and the coworker got a big refund he said at 4/32. So my number may be wrong based on the link below.

reference:
discounttire.com/learn/tire-safety
discounttire.com/customer-service/certificates
 
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Changed my oil and rotates tires. Discovered both of my cambr plate screws were loose allowing dynamic camber haha. Put ow20 back in since it's been colder. It also rid of a idle range hollow clicking I was getting. Had been running 5w30 since I replaced rod end bearings by mistake.
 
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Changed my oil and rotates tires. Discovered both of my cambr plate screws were loose allowing dynamic camber haha. Put ow20 back in since it's been colder. It also rid of a idle range hollow clicking I was getting. Had been running 5w30 since I replaced rod end bearings by mistake.
How did you like running the 5w30 vs the 0w20?

I got my brakes inspected. Front rotors need to be resurfaced and my front pads were actually still good on life but wearing unevenly. Guy was saying something about slide hardware?

Anyway, he said rotors probably have "one turn" left in them. Turn and resurface mean the same thing right?

Now that I know what's needed, I'll buy some new pads, hardware, grease, get the rotors resurfaced, put new pads on, grease everything up like its supposed to be (from the videos I watched), and put it back together. That should solve my pulsating braking at high speeds.
 
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What I did for my CX-5 was buy cheap rubber floor mats from Walmart to keep the good floor mats clean. They were universal fit and with some trimming they fit good. I like them. They have a ridge to keep any mud or water in them.
 
How did you like running the 5w30 vs the 0w20?

I got my brakes inspected. Front rotors need to be resurfaced and my front pads were actually still good on life but wearing unevenly. Guy was saying something about slide hardware?

Anyway, he said rotors probably have "one turn" left in them. Turn and resurface mean the same thing right?

Now that I know what's needed, I'll buy some new pads, hardware, grease, get the rotors resurfaced, put new pads on, grease everything up like its supposed to be (from the videos I watched), and put it back together. That should solve my pulsating braking at high speeds.

I used to change the brakes on my old car. The slide hardware are stainless steel clips that the pads ride in. They have to lubed with brake grease so the pads can move back and forth freely. When a pad sticks, and it is very common, one pad will wear faster than the other. Yes resurfacing and turning mean the same thing. But rotors are so cheap these days I didn't think they machined them anymore, just put new ones on.
 
0w-20 is so thin. They do it not for the motor's sake but to try to get more mpg out of the car. There is less drag of motor parts in thin oil. Do you guys run full synthetic or a blend?
 
How did you like running the 5w30 vs the 0w20?

I got my brakes inspected. Front rotors need to be resurfaced and my front pads were actually still good on life but wearing unevenly. Guy was saying something about slide hardware?

Anyway, he said rotors probably have "one turn" left in them. Turn and resurface mean the same thing right?

Now that I know what's needed, I'll buy some new pads, hardware, grease, get the rotors resurfaced, put new pads on, grease everything up like its supposed to be (from the videos I watched), and put it back together. That should solve my pulsating braking at high speeds.
It seemed to keep my catch can less full between changes, blowby. Ran 5w30 for about a year.. however like I said, I also did an unnecessary repair that could destroy and engine if done improperly. The new bearing were tighter tolerance than the ones removed so my experience of the noise was likely a quirk of my engine. Considering I was getting the noise at idle/creeping which is also the lowest oil pressure, and the noise is gone now with the *thinner* oil.
 
Noticed one of my HIDS wasn't reflecting off the car in front of me.. time for some new ones. I'm hoping I can get it in/out without taking the light off (or worse bending the clip trying do it blind). edit: good lord, the best d4s bulbs are $150 a set.. I don't want a no name PRC this time though, probably just grab some morimito for $50..
 
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Cleaned and detailed our Black Mica Signature CX-5 and sealed it with Meguiars Ultra Fast Finish. The car is new but it never looked as good as it does today.
 
Cleaned and detailed our Black Mica Signature CX-5 and sealed it with Meguiars Ultra Fast Finish. The car is new but it never looked as good as it does today.

And no photo. Really? #fail

The nerve of some people...LOL Haven't figured out how to add photos in the mobile site:(

...and now for some pictures

20181217_front angle 2mp.jpg
20181217_passenger side 2mp.jpg
20181217_front 2mp.jpg
20181217_interior 2mp.jpg
 
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