Rear license plate, plastic screws

I have a 2016 CX5 GT, I added a hitch and stowaway cargo box 2 yrs ago for use when we travel in the summer with our son and 2 greyhounds. Using the Cargo box requires me to relocate the license plate to the cargo box else the LEO will kindly stop us and give me a lovely piece of paper for a violation.

Cargo box
https://www.stowaway2.com/max-cargo-carrier-black

Here's my current problem, the plate was originally installed with 2 nylon screws. 2 weeks ago when I moved the license plate to the cargo box to use for our latest long weekend trip the nylon screws broke off in the screw holes. I was able to drill the plastic out but damaged the threads. I was able to use some stainless machine screws I had but they don't fit well and the plate rattles when opening and closing the read hatch.

Now I'm at a quandary. How do I reattach the plate and have a long term way to remove and reattach the plate? The dealer told me the rear hatch is not designed for metal screws only nylon screws, those built in holes are threaded accordingly. I stopped by a local auto parts place and discussed with them, they suggested I make the hole bigger, forgo the threaded holes and insert a nylon or rubber plug to screw into. The plugs are easily replaceable and cost pennies.

Simliar to this
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Any other ideas?

You can use a longer and thinner bolt and matching nut if you can reach out to other end of the OEM nut. Just insert long thin bolt and tighten the nut at the back.

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I don't have a 2016 but that sounds like noise to me. My Fiance's 2015 MZ3 and my '17 CX5 both ave regular metal screws.

bthom70 said:

I have a 2016 CX5 GT, I added a hitch and stowaway cargo box 2 yrs ago for use when we travel in the summer with our son and 2 greyhounds. Using the Cargo box requires me to relocate the license plate to the cargo box else the LEO will kindly stop us and give me a lovely piece of paper for a violation.

Cargo box
https://www.stowaway2.com/max-cargo-carrier-black

Here's my current problem, the plate was originally installed with 2 nylon screws. 2 weeks ago when I moved the license plate to the cargo box to use for our latest long weekend trip the nylon screws broke off in the screw holes. I was able to drill the plastic out but damaged the threads. I was able to use some stainless machine screws I had but they don't fit well and the plate rattles when opening and closing the read hatch.

Now I'm at a quandary. How do I reattach the plate and have a long term way to remove and reattach the plate? The dealer told me the rear hatch is not designed for metal screws only nylon screws, those built in holes are threaded accordingly. I stopped by a local auto parts place and discussed with them, they suggested I make the hole bigger, forgo the threaded holes and insert a nylon or rubber plug to screw into. The plugs are easily replaceable and cost pennies.

Simliar to this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Any other ideas?

Click to expand...

So somehow, according to your dealer, the treading for plastic screws and metal are somehow different? O-kay...

My 2016.5 CX-5 came with metal screws for the hatch and they thread and work fine.

Dealer was able to tap/rethread the screw holes and install metal machine screws. But I still have long term concerns with removing and reattaching the plate 3-4 times a year that the threads will wear out.



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I do not understand this, but then I am not a US citizen.

In Belgium we are allowed to put a copy of the license plate, must be a "recognizable" copy (for radar purposes etc.)

These copies are made mostly by the 3M corporation; they are an exact duplicate of the license plate albeit that there is no government watermark on it. Cost : approx. 15 Eur (16 USD).
The original plate remains always attached to the car.

Just FYI.

p38cyq said:

I do not understand this, but then I am not a US citizen.

In Belgium we are allowed to put a copy of the license plate, must be a "recognizable" copy (for radar purposes etc.)

These copies are made mostly by the 3M corporation; they are an exact duplicate of the license plate albeit that there is no government watermark on it. Cost : approx. 15 Eur (16 USD).
The original plate remains always attached to the car.

Just FYI.

Click to expand...

Not so here in the US we are required to move the plate if anything will block the plate including external mounted tires. If you have a trailer on a hitch it must have its own plate. As it has a separate axel and tires and must be licensed separately.



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i guess some dealers didn't get that memo...

bthom70 said:

...The dealer told me the rear hatch is not designed for metal screws only nylon screws, those built in holes are threaded accordingly. Any other ideas?

Click to expand...

Weird, I have metal screws holding my rear plate as I type this. I bought CPO, but it shouldn't matter...right? If nylon was the only type of screw to hold in the plate, why do dealers use metal machine screws?

The threads in the hatch seem to be part of the hatch. To prevent possible dissimilar metal corrosion, I used some silicone sealant around the rear plate screws to seal out moisture and prevent the screws from rusting in place due to their infrequent use/removal.

I will have to ask the dealer the next time I'm there about the "nylon only" screws for the rear plate.

To keep my metal plate from moving around, I place several pieces of (Frost King) adhesive foam insulation - sticky on one side, smooth on the other - that comes in packages located in the door/garage door isle in the local HW store. These pieces are about 2" long and placed at the top, bottom and sides of the plate.