I think this is a deal...

Something isn't adding up. Are you getting a dealer discount that gets you to invoice price plus another $1500 dealer discount? $2,244 total dealer discount and another $2,000 in rebates/incentives?

I think the price is legit. My 2017 was 33,665 sticker, price i paid was 30,599, then 500 loyalty discount. Granted i was buying at end of year, but his dealer could just be that aggressive. the dealer could also be discounting knowing the buyer is financing.

As i said before, most loans have origination fees, and many have an interest penalty for paying off early. The dealers knows most buyers know invoice price, the dealers even share it (meaningless i know) but they have no problem coming down below invoice and making their money in other places.
 
I think the price is legit. My 2017 was 33,665 sticker, price i paid was 30,599, then 500 loyalty discount. Granted i was buying at end of year, but his dealer could just be that aggressive. the dealer could also be discounting knowing the buyer is financing.

As i said before, most loans have origination fees, and many have an interest penalty for paying off early. The dealers knows most buyers know invoice price, the dealers even share it (meaningless i know) but they have no problem coming down below invoice and making their money in other places.

Maybe, but current incentives are nowhere near as strong as they were at the end of the year (they never are). Plus, the 18's just came out and the 17's were nearing the end of their run.

I work at a dealer so I'm familiar with the front and back end aspects. The front end margins on most Japanese brands are tiny compared to American companies like Chevy and Ford
 
Maybe, but current incentives are nowhere near as strong as they were at the end of the year (they never are). Plus, the 18's just came out and the 17's were nearing the end of their run.

I work at a dealer so I'm familiar with the front and back end aspects. The front end margins on most Japanese brands are tiny compared to American companies like Chevy and Ford

You know more inside stuff then me. Maybe they want to move more FWD models? End of month and behind projections? Or maybe a bait and switch... some $1000 protection package they forgot to tell the buyer about? Or buyers want the 17 more then the 18 because of cylinder deactivation?
 
You know more inside stuff then me. Maybe they want to move more FWD models? End of month and behind projections? Or maybe a bait and switch... some $1000 protection package they forgot to tell the buyer about? Or buyers want the 17 more then the 18 because of cylinder deactivation?


I’ll bet that 99% of buyers don’t even know of or care about cylinder deactivation. They will buy the ‘17 because they are getting a good deal as dealers want to move them out.

I wonder how many 17’s are still on the lots? Mazda doesn’t seem to be the kind of manufacturer that over produces vehicles , especially CX5.
 
You know more inside stuff then me. Maybe they want to move more FWD models? End of month and behind projections? Or maybe a bait and switch... some $1000 protection package they forgot to tell the buyer about? Or buyers want the 17 more then the 18 because of cylinder deactivation?

The "add-ons" are something to be aware of. One dealer had $900 of nonsense added to the cost sheet which was not disclosed until the end. Things like window tint, paint protection, VIN etching, etc.

So they get you to agree to the price and when you sit down to sign, they surprise you with the added costs.

Only savvy buyers will know the difference between cylinder deactivation on 18s vs 17s. This forum made me aware and swayed me to buy a 17 because of that.

AWD are hard to find in my area. Most are FWD
 
You know more inside stuff then me. Maybe they want to move more FWD models? End of month and behind projections? Or maybe a bait and switch... some $1000 protection package they forgot to tell the buyer about? Or buyers want the 17 more then the 18 because of cylinder deactivation?

Everyone seems to want 18's. Not one customer has mentioned the cylinder deactivation one way or the other
 
2018 CX5 touring with preferred equip package. Eternal blue.

MSRP 28390
Invoice 27646
Discount 1500
Rebate 1000
Owner Loyalty 500
Auto Show 500
Total 24146
Plus TTL
$4,244 off MSRP for a 2018 CX-5? That's 15% off the list price!

Mind to tell us which Mazda dealer in DFW? ;)
 
$4,244 off MSRP for a 2018 CX-5? That's 15% off the list price!

Mind to tell us which Mazda dealer in DFW? ;)

Buy as many as you can afford and resell them at a profit. That's true arbitrage! [But is it legal??]

It would be worth flying to TX from anywhere in the world to snatch one at that price.

I can't help thinking, if it seems too good to be true, it probably isn't.

I can't wait to hear what the real, ultimate bottom line is if Russ7 makes the deal.
 
Got the deal. No bait and switch... well they didn’t have the color so I went up $300 and got the grey metallic.

Still wondering if I should have gone 0% and paid $1000 more... but either way it’s a great deal. Even better car that I’d read about and seen. No regrets!
 
Got the deal. No bait and switch... well they didnt have the color so I went up $300 and got the grey metallic.

Still wondering if I should have gone 0% and paid $1000 more... but either way its a great deal. Even better car that Id read about and seen. No regrets!


What kind of loan did you get? What are the terms? (percentage, length, early pay off penalties, loan origination, etc)
 
The OP said he could pay it off in a year. So that means even if he doesn't have the money now, he will in a year. Still, 0% is a better deal.

The $1000 discount is worth maybe 1.5%, So if you pay any more then 1.5% APR, you spend more on interest then that 1000 cash discount.

One thing many people don't realize is the money dealers make from deals with finance companies. They will knock lots of the price if you are financing through them and unknowingly take a higher rate. It doesn't take long for them to recoup a $1000 they knocked off. Many car loans now have origination fees - cash in the lender/dealers pocket - don't forget to add that back to the great price you thought you got.

That is why all these "did i get a good price" threads are almost meaningless. Without knowing the full terms of the deal, the buyer could easily be paying more then someone that got a higher price but paid cash.


Even if he had 5% APR on a $25,000 loan, he would pay $664 per year in interest. If he actually plans on paying it off in 1-year and has a decent APR, then yes it's better to take the $1,000. If he pays it off in two years or more, then it's better to take the 0% APR.

I bought my 2017 with a similar deal. I took the 0.9% APR for 5-years. I didn't plan an early payoff, so this saved me over $2,000 in interest, over double the $1,000 incentive that was offered.

Double check your math, and make sure you're certain on your payoff plans before making a decision.
 
I don't like the idea of asking people what interest rate they got. Rates will be very personalized depending on a person's credit situation. If someone has a 550 auto FICO their rate is going to be much higher than someone with a 700+. I don't like the idea of calling people out like that in public
 
I don't like the idea of asking people what interest rate they got. Rates will be very personalized depending on a person's credit situation. If someone has a 550 auto FICO their rate is going to be much higher than someone with a 700+. I don't like the idea of calling people out like that in public

I agree.
 
I don't like the idea of asking people what interest rate they got. Rates will be very personalized depending on a person's credit situation. If someone has a 550 auto FICO their rate is going to be much higher than someone with a 700+. I don't like the idea of calling people out like that in public

So you don't like insulting people on a forum to feel good about yourself? What's wrong with you.
 
I don't like the idea of asking people what interest rate they got. Rates will be very personalized depending on a person's credit situation. If someone has a 550 auto FICO their rate is going to be much higher than someone with a 700+. I don't like the idea of calling people out like that in public

Then someone needs to come up with a way to answer the question "did i get a good deal" and not hurt their feelings with the answer.

The good deal is directly related to how much you paid. If you didn't pay cash or take 0%, then the interest you pay over the life of the loan has a HUGE impact on your cost to buy that car.

And dealers will lower price if they know you are financing through them. And shouldn't the origination fee be factored in?

Sorry, but if someone doesn't want to share how much interest they are paying , then they should not be asking if they got a good deal. Generally if they financed through the dealer (not Mazda) and paid more then 2% interest and an origination fee, the answer is "No, you didn't get a good deal, no matter the sale price and rebates".

If you think that is harsh, then just talk about monthly payments, don't ask what options they got, and don't ask months of loan either. So then the guy with an 84 month loan on a Sport, got the best deal as he has the lowest monthly payment. That makes as much as sense as not factoring the cost of the loan in the purchase price.
 
Back