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- State of Jefferson
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- 2017 CX-5 GT AWD+
A Few Surprises from US 2018 Mazda CX-5
- Thread starter yrwei52
- Start date
Thanks Man. Just ordered the CTEK 5.0 for $79 @ Amazon. It even has the recond. option. Question: Do I need to remove the vehicle red wire when I attach the CTEK ? Q2: Recond. option: recommended frequency? Anything else --> as it seems you do know the batteries a lot.
No, it should be safe to hook it up and just let it do its thing... if you use the "recond" mode, you might want to loosen the caps... don't need to take them off, just keep them loose so crap doesn't fall in... this will help the battery vent better... you'll want to clean the battery well before you loosen or remove the caps though.... it's a good time to top it off with distilled water anyway... I recommend FRESH, brand new from store distilled water as one that's been sitting around for a while will get ionized from stuff in the air... use the left over to top off the coolant reservoir (few ounces will not hurt, just don't use it to refill/change the coolant) and for your iron or steamer in the house... will keep them clog free
You can use a clean funnel, but I prefer to use a syringe to squirt water in, that way it's controlled and spill free... you can pick up one from the drug store.... they sell big ones that are not meant for injection use
the goal is to put in as pure water as possible so it won't destroy the battery cells from contaminants... you'll need to check again in after summer as the summer heat will cause some water loss in the battery
You can use a clean funnel, but I prefer to use a syringe to squirt water in, that way it's controlled and spill free... you can pick up one from the drug store.... they sell big ones that are not meant for injection use
the goal is to put in as pure water as possible so it won't destroy the battery cells from contaminants... you'll need to check again in after summer as the summer heat will cause some water loss in the battery
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- 2022 2.5GT
If everybody tops their coolant up as often as you profess to top your battery up then it does matter. The coolant should be kept at a strict 50%.
This was my 2013 cars battery. Both cars have the caps that allow topping up.
https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yuasa-12v-80ah-780a-efb-start-stop-battery-ybx7335-t110-8949-p.asp
https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yuasa-12v-80ah-780a-efb-start-stop-battery-ybx7335-t110-8949-p.asp
coolant loss isn't enough to cause a severe imbalance from just topping up with water... you lose a few ounces at most... the ratio only matters more if your car experiences very cold temperatures
in the US, the FL22 mixture is 55/45, IIRC... Canada is a bit different and probably other countries
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The T-110 comes in the diesel (JIS D26 size)
for the gasoline (petrol) ones, it comes with the Q-85 (JIS D23 size) battery, if you have i-stop... without i-stop, it's a 55D23L (warm climates) or 75D23L (cold climates)... it's a shorter battery... all have removal filler caps
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They have this other section called new and used and found a seller with $1 shipping for $79, went for it, said NEW.
In case you don't know this check this website: camelcamelcamel.com and put in search the Amazon URL and it gives historical data.
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- 2022 2.5GT
No it doesnt. The coolant is a carefully balanced inhibitor not just anti freeze. It has to balance the effects of different metals and plastics which can be extremely corrosive. Dont go overboard on batteries then trivialise coolant.
a couple of ounces of water isn't going to cause the mix ratio to drop a bunch of percentage points, especially when a typical 4 cylinder car has 2 US gallons (about 7.5l) of coolant capacity... even more if you have diesel
as a matter of fact, in the old days where coolant wasn't premixed in the jug, the manufacturer allowed you to use as little as 30% antfreeze and as much as 60%, depending on your freeze protection needs... even at the low end of the scale, it had sufficient antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors and other additive packages to do the job for the service life of 2 years/30k miles
you're over reacting and making a big deal out of this... no one needs to go spend $20 for a jug of FL22 from the dealer just to top up 5 fluid ounces of coolant
Ghostsniper
Member
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- 2009 M3 GT (White-Hatchback), 2018 CX5 GT AWD (White-Tech Pkg)
Here you go ... to get back on the topic ... Picked it up last Saturday ... No Shift Paddler as the Canada Mazda stated when I was getting a build price for it... Planning to change the steel rims next winter into alloys ...
I don't see much different than 2017 when doing a visual look from exterior ... The Cylinder Deactivation has no warning in the interior so I don't even know if it is kicking in...
<a href="https://ibb.co/exP9Gm"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/gXiQp6/IMG_20180113_095053.jpg"
*PS*
- I think the wind visor fits very well, not too big and not too small and the mud flaps ... I will probably do a full body shoot and interior shoot someday when it is not freezing outside ... damn winter made it dirty just bringing it home ...
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Congrats!
So you got both normal alloys and steel rims (uhm)
re no paddle shiftersI'm also getting wind visors (weathershields as they are called here). Not getting mudflaps as they are too small IMHO but each to their own
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I had after market mud flaps - removed them (after I lost a couple) and put OEM. My MPG improved slightly - no idea why. Those OEM flaps look small but they catch a helluva lot of stuff. No drop in MPG
Wind visors - make 200% sure to put OEM. The stick on create a lot of wind noise. The OEMs are pricey but they sit so flush its terrific. No extra wind noise.
Suggestion: Get a moof roof deflector. OEM only. Again no idea why - but after putting it on my MPG has actually increased. For a commute in summer I averaged around 24 mpg but after putting it on I consistently got around .5 mpg more.
