What did you pay for your CX-5?

oh, did not know that...makes sense actually since the PP on 2018 brings the heated steering and heated rears.
Thats cool that the PP on 2019 has it.
So GT R is for the turbo and awd then.

and the wheels, no?
 
I used to sell my own cars. But these days I do not want to take any chances with fraudulent accts and money. I would gladly take $1,000 less from a dealer than going through the hassle of meeting several buyers and not knowing if their credit/ cash is good.

Just like smart phones, Ive decided its not worth the risk of selling it to a private party, too many friggin horror stories.
Agree. I sold one car personally and said never again. PITA.
 
haha yeah!
My friend once sold his car that did not start, to do so he decided it was a great idea to post my home address on Craigslist since it was parked in my driveway. Haha.
Man in hindsight he really really shouldve pushed the car to the next block and have people go there to see the car.

Agree. I sold one car personally and said never again. PITA.
 
I got a couple quotes so far - none that are likely to make me jump. In VA, dealers are allowed to charge any amount they want as a 'Processing Fee', as long as they disclose it up front. It's included in the sales tax...and 'gross receipts tax' - businesses in this county get charged on how much they sell, which they pass along to the customer. So...I might be buying in MD or WVA (or even PA), but it's all close enough I'll be getting quotes from those dealers.

It's funny how dealers try to mask the fees they charge - or avoid talking about it at all, if they can.

In any case, here's how it breaks down so far:

Mazda incentives are equal across all dealerships, so not factoring that in - although it affects my bottom line cost.

Dealer #1 MSRP + $649 processing fee = MSRP +$649
Dealer #2 MSRP - $ 1000 + $899 processing fee = MSRP - $100
Dealer #3 MSRP + $649 processing fee = MSRP +$649

If this keeps up, they're going to be the best Ford Edge salespeople around.
 
Hi All, Newbie here.

My first Mazda. I am planning to buy a 2018 CX5 GT with PP. MSRP - 33,335 (Including Destination fee). Dealer is offering $30500 plus T,T&F. How low should I negotiate and also what is the OTD price I can negotiate for? Thank you.
 
I used to sell my own cars. But these days I do not want to take any chances with fraudulent accts and money. I would gladly take $1,000 less from a dealer than going through the hassle of meeting several buyers and not knowing if their credit/ cash is good.

Just like smart phones, Ive decided its not worth the risk of selling it to a private party, too many friggin horror stories.

I had a almost bad experience selling my old car two cars ago. They gave me cash and took the car but they never registered it and I never de-registered it. About a month later the police called me. They had pulled the car over and they impounded it. I told the police that I had sold it to them. I told the name of the person and everything. The officer was very understanding and asked me if I wanted the car back. I said no and that was the end of it. After that I traded in my next car, and after that is this car. But the dealer offered me so little for it I just couldn't let my car go at that low price.
From that one bad experience selling a car I learned you have to:
1) Degresiter your car, which happened automatically this time around since I transferred plates. If they want a test drive, you drive it and for a short drive. And I mean short, don't go past a mile from your house since it is not registered.
2) Only accept cash. If you have a very expensive old car it most likely won't be possible for the buyer to buy with cash so I don't know what you do in that case. I guess trade it in.
3) Do not give the keys until they go to DMV with the title and come back with plates.
And 4) call your insurance and remove your old car. They will refund the insurance that you didn't use.
 
I left a step out, print off a bill of sale from the DMV site. In my state a bill of sale is not necessary, but on the bill of sale have your name and address, their name and address, the vin of the car you are selling and its mileage. Then you can write paid in full and both of you sign it. If they are leaving a down payment, write that on it. Give them a copy and you keep a copy. Then you have all of their information. If something goes drastically wrong you can show that to the police.
Also I wouldn't worry about thieves coming over to look at your car, thieves can go to any house and demand keys to the family car. I don't think many people looking for a car are dangerous. I guess some will try to write a bad personal check to give you. Just say "I'm sorry I won't accept a personal check, one bounced on me last time I sold a car".
 
I got a couple quotes so far - none that are likely to make me jump. In VA, dealers are allowed to charge any amount they want as a 'Processing Fee', as long as they disclose it up front. It's included in the sales tax...and 'gross receipts tax' - businesses in this county get charged on how much they sell, which they pass along to the customer. So...I might be buying in MD or WVA (or even PA), but it's all close enough I'll be getting quotes from those dealers.

It's funny how dealers try to mask the fees they charge - or avoid talking about it at all, if they can.

In any case, here's how it breaks down so far:

Mazda incentives are equal across all dealerships, so not factoring that in - although it affects my bottom line cost.

Dealer #1 MSRP + $649 processing fee = MSRP +$649
Dealer #2 MSRP - $ 1000 + $899 processing fee = MSRP - $100
Dealer #3 MSRP + $649 processing fee = MSRP +$649

If this keeps up, they're going to be the best Ford Edge salespeople around.

I don't get it. All you asked them for was a quote and what their processing fee is. Of course they'll quote the MSRP, its their starting point. They're in it to make money, and won't just give you 10% off the MSRP up front. You have to be willing to work for it. Helps to play the dealers against each other as well.
 
One last thought, I was worried when I didn't trade it in, was thinking omg what if it doesn't sell? What if buyers are crooks? This is a pita!! I have my old car sitting here... crap!
The thing is if you set the price to 1K over what the dealer quoted, it is probably a steal. My car sold in an hour. I disclosed what I knew was wrong with it and dropped my asking price by $300. I even told them what the dealer asked, in conversing. I was totally honest. So I got $600 more than what the dealer asked. $600 is a lot, can buy a lot of accessories for $600.
 
I've sold every car myself instead of trading them in, and made thousands over what the dealers offer as trade-ins. As long as you are honest with what you are selling, have all the paperwork, you shouldn't have a problem.
 
I don't get it. All you asked them for was a quote and what their processing fee is. Of course they'll quote the MSRP, its their starting point. They're in it to make money, and won't just give you 10% off the MSRP up front. You have to be willing to work for it. Helps to play the dealers against each other as well.

I asked for a quote, but also their best out the door price including all dealer fees....AND let them know that I'm seeking multiple quotes from dealers around the area. Lots of dealers advertise a price, but include all potential incentives (Loyalty, Military, Customer Cash, College Graduate, and even "Access/Mobility") in that number, making it artificially low - I doubt that there are too many buyers that currently own a Mazda, are in the military, just graduated from college, AND need hand controls installed). Also, in VA, the 'processing fee' varies wildly. I've seen them as low as 299, and as high as 999. The ones I pointed out above, are an example. The dealer's not knocking $1000 off the price, they're discounting by $101.

In MD, I think state law limits the processing fee to $300....but they're also required to list it as "optional". So, it's a negotiable item, like anything else.

One dealer said that Mazda just announced new incentives, but I don't see anything new on the website. I guess I could get my ex-wife to Photoshop her registration to show my address....but that would be wrong.

In any case, that's part of the first round #'s. The 2nd round will assess who if anybody is giving an actual discount, and make a counter-offer. In the first round, I haven't seen much, if any flexibility. Yet.
 
Hi All,

Any help please.
My first Mazda. I am planning to buy a 2018 CX5 GT with PP. MSRP - 33,335 (Including Destination fee). Dealer is offering $30500 plus T,T&F. How low should I negotiate and also what is the OTD price I can negotiate for? Thank you.
 
Hi All,

Any help please.
My first Mazda. I am planning to buy a 2018 CX5 GT with PP. MSRP - 33,335 (Including Destination fee). Dealer is offering $30500 plus T,T&F. How low should I negotiate and also what is the OTD price I can negotiate for? Thank you.

Ask for 5-6K off MSRP now.
 
Thank you

Ask for 5-6K off MSRP now.

So, 5-6K off would put me at 29500-30500 OTD price. I can Start at 29,500 and not to exceed 30,500, Is that a good target to bargain? Thank you.

33335-6000 = 27335 + Virginia Tax , Tags & Processing fee = 29500
 
So, 5-6K off would put me at 29500-30500 OTD price. I can Start at 29,500 and not to exceed 30,500, Is that a good target to bargain? Thank you.

33335-6000 = 27335 + Virginia Tax , Tags & Processing fee = 29500

A few weeks ago in Socal I was offered a car with MSRP 29910 (2018 Touring AWD snow flakes with preferred package). They wanted 27,295 OTD (taxes, lic, docs, everything). Our tax, doc, and fees are about 10.5-11%.

That included $500 cash rebates +750 royalty reward.

Give it a try with that number mentioned.
 
Last edited:
Hi all. Potential CX-5 buyer here. I currently have an offer on a 2019 Signature for 39,435 out the door. Yay or keep hunting?
 
Just picked up a...

2019 White GT with PP, FWD.

MSRP: $32,865
Discount: $-2,553
Customer Cash: $-500
Sale Price : $29,812
TTL: $3,188 (SoCal)
OTD: $33,000

9.3% off MSRP!

Trade In: $3,700
Final OTD Price: $29,300


So my dealer tried to add $500 onto the TTL for "Aftermarkets" which was like "Nitro Fill" and some other crap. When I asked what "Aftermarkets" was he started to explain that it was 2 separate things this particular dealer does that other dealers normally don't do (even though the car was delivered just the day before and was still in all its plastic, mmm hmm, riiiight) and before he got to finish explaining I stopped him and said that this was an addition that the dealer decided to do without my consent and that there's no way I'm going to pay half a thousand dollars on something I don't want. They quickly removed it.

There's was also a lot of back and forth (standard car buying stuff) with the dealer trying really hard to confuse me with his mumbo-jumbo talk and I just kept pointing to the sale price, OTD price and % off MSRP. Not sure who it was but somebody here said to focus on only those numbers.

I'm quite happy with the price I got as it's very "just off the boat" with only 3 miles on it and we got it to a price my wife and I are both happy with.

This forum really helped me understand my purchasing power so I hope my info can help others too. You guys Rock!

What is TTL: $3,188 (SoCal)? Tax and what else?
 
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