2nd trans acting up
- Thread starter madar
- Start date
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Curious if you attempted to put into MANUAL mode?
I used my Innova 3110, and yes I attempted manual mode and just got a small "M", no warning lights came on, just heard the engine screaming, looked down and saw the tach headed for the 3k+ rpm area. I thought I saw some one post something about loose battery cables causing a less than good ground which might cause wierd trans activity so I tightened them up a bit, they weren't optimally tight. Don't need this now! I have 1 more payment!
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Without powertrain warranty I guess you can only hope your 2nd transmission can hold up a little longer without showing any symptoms until you can trade it in for something else!
Yep, been looking at new 2016.5 models around he area, can get some pretty hefty discounts buying one of them. I was looking at CPO 2016 but the wife wants new. Prices are pretty close between the two when you consider discounts on new.
That's unfortunate to hear about your transmission woes... if there is anything about a vehicle that gives me concerns is the transmission. As I have stated before... had an expensive failure in youth and at a time I could least afford to fix.
Focusing in on mine I have thought it has been shifting a little more sharply lately but I have driven more aggressively so maybe retuning for that driving behavior.
Focusing in on mine I have thought it has been shifting a little more sharply lately but I have driven more aggressively so maybe retuning for that driving behavior.
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I put 50 miles on since the incident, hasn't acted up since. I did notice a few hard shifts in the lower gears the last month. Maybe only a software glitch, but I'm looking at rear brake change again, spark plug replacement, engine is starting to seep from some kind of connector on the valve cover... time for another one. I don't like the looks of the 2017 so a leftover new 2016 may be in order.
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What area of valve cover? My timing chain cover area on passenger/firewall side had an oil leak that was fixed last November by dealer. Still have to address the leak on lower end (possible rear main) but going on vacation for a couple weeks so that will have to wait until sometime in May.
Top passenger side, there's an electrical connector to something about an inch in diameter into the valve cover, saw some one else post it on here a while back. I also noticed it on my stepdaughter's 2014 CX5, looks like a common problem area to me. I'll try to get a picture posted later.
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Thanks! I haven't seen that leak on mine yet but probably should pull the engine cover off to double check. My leak was on the back side there and fixed with timing chain cover gear gasket replacement.
If this got bad enough, oil would run down the timing chain cover looking like it leaked from there.
It could if someone didn't pull the cover off to confirm. Mine was dry up on top though when I pulled cover.
That leak is caused by the pos early model of the OCV for the VVT. This is specifically addressed in a TSB. It is caused by a poorly engineered plastic to metal seal at the top where the electrical connector is. I just replaced my wife's with a new OCV, valve cover gasket and OCV to valve cover seal. Fortunately, this problem is big enough that you can buy the OCV seal separate now. Before you had to buy a whole new cam cover to just get the seal. My earlier silicone fix lasted about 10k, then the leak got worse as the valve seal deteriorated and the oil pressure on the silicone got higher. I got a good look at the top end, cam lobes, etc and everything looks like new. No sludge, etc. My OCI and M1 0W20 is working like a charm.
Good luck on trying to get any parts at all. My guy hooked me up with a couple dealers across the country that each had some of the different parts I needed and got everything in about 3 days. It's a b*tch to get at some of the nuts, harness clips, etc to move the main wiring harness out of the way to have clear access to remove/install the cam cover and remove the factory silicone at the 2 spots on the passenger side and the other 2 on the drivers side. I was gonna post a YouTube video, but was crunched for time and just wanted to get it done exactly like it was originally with no busted clips, etc. I can only imagine the Mazda monkeys breaking about 6 or 7 clips, not cleaning the seal surfaces perfectly and applying way to much silicone and probably in the wrong areas. I followed the FSM to the letter and used a pair of calipers and a sharpie to make marks exactly where and how long each bead had to be. I also cut the plastic nozzle to get the perfect bead width of ~0.25". Yeah, I'm a little OCD, but I only want to do a job once and do it right. Just turned 70k this weekend. Need to replace the alternator belt and water pump stretch belt and she should be good for another 70k.
Good luck on trying to get any parts at all. My guy hooked me up with a couple dealers across the country that each had some of the different parts I needed and got everything in about 3 days. It's a b*tch to get at some of the nuts, harness clips, etc to move the main wiring harness out of the way to have clear access to remove/install the cam cover and remove the factory silicone at the 2 spots on the passenger side and the other 2 on the drivers side. I was gonna post a YouTube video, but was crunched for time and just wanted to get it done exactly like it was originally with no busted clips, etc. I can only imagine the Mazda monkeys breaking about 6 or 7 clips, not cleaning the seal surfaces perfectly and applying way to much silicone and probably in the wrong areas. I followed the FSM to the letter and used a pair of calipers and a sharpie to make marks exactly where and how long each bead had to be. I also cut the plastic nozzle to get the perfect bead width of ~0.25". Yeah, I'm a little OCD, but I only want to do a job once and do it right. Just turned 70k this weekend. Need to replace the alternator belt and water pump stretch belt and she should be good for another 70k.
Yep, pegged it as a problem area. So, you tried RTV sealer around the outside to stop the leak or slow it down? I'm trading mine in soon but my stepdaughter might have enough left on her powertrain warranty to get it fixed.
What is your method for changing stretch belts?
Noticed site here said the following:
"On smaller width stretch belts that are driven by the camshaft, like on some Ford and Mazda V6 water pump applications, you can use zip ties to install the belt. Simply zip tie the belt to the camshaft pulley and turn the engine until the belt is seated, then cut the tie. This method can also be used to keep some belts in place during installation.
After the belt is installed, always confirm the belt is in the grooves and re-check that there are no alignment problems. Run the engine for a few seconds before checking."
I cleaned the top of the valve at the connector interface with brake clean and then put a healthy bead of permatex grey silicone around it. It worked well for about 10k, then started leaking through, so I did the repair. All in I paid about $250 or so for parts. Other than my first car, a new 80 rx7 and a 78 grand wagoneer college beater, I've never put more than 50k on my daily drivers, but I've had pretty good luck with the wife's 2015 CX5, so we'll see how it goes. She wants to get a new vehicle, but I keep convincing her to stick with it for now. I might just give her my 2012 CX9 GT AWD, as it only just turned 17k and I've changed rear diff, xfer, etc to full group V synthetics and it looks and smells brand new. Has full Weather Tech floor liners, full front coverage and mirrors clear bra, hard wired V1, upgraded tires, rotors and pads, etc. She just won't like the fuel mileage!
So yours actually started leaking around 60k, I think my stepdaughter is around 59k, noticed mine a few hundred ago, right now I'm nearing 71k. $250 in parts? Wow, can't imagine what a dealer would charge with labor.
They make a tool for it, but I just cut a piece of polyethylene out of an old windshield washer bottle about 2" X 3" long, start the belt on the crank pulley and then place the plastic between the belt and pulley on the tension side of the water pump and rotate the crank CW with a long ratchet and it pops right on with no damage and as you keep rotating it further the piece of plastic just falls out. My dealer uses the same method, even though they have the tool.
Kinda confused by the camshaft comment though. The camshaft is chain driven and has nothing to do with the water pump on the CX5 Skyactiv-g engine. It is crank driven. I think they are referring to the CX9 duratec v6, which does drive the water pump with a chain, but not a stretch belt. Just my 2 cents!
Kinda confused by the camshaft comment though. The camshaft is chain driven and has nothing to do with the water pump on the CX5 Skyactiv-g engine. It is crank driven. I think they are referring to the CX9 duratec v6, which does drive the water pump with a chain, but not a stretch belt. Just my 2 cents!
