High Mileage CX-5s - report in

*sigh* I still haven't done the trans drain and fill. Still have 12 quarts sitting in the box in the garage.

On a positive note, I just got back my first Blackstone UOA from the last oil change at ~92K miles. Just over 6K on the Mazda Moly oil. Blackstone said everything looked great, other than iron being a little high which is indicative of long periods of idling. Which is true because my wife idles the car for around an hour or more each day in the school pickup line. (eek2)(headshake They said TBN showed plenty of additives left, and recommended going 8K miles on my next interval! (thumb)
 
*sigh* I still haven't done the trans drain and fill. Still have 12 quarts sitting in the box in the garage.

On a positive note, I just got back my first Blackstone UOA from the last oil change at ~92K miles. Just over 6K on the Mazda Moly oil. Blackstone said everything looked great, other than iron being a little high which is indicative of long periods of idling. Which is true because my wife idles the car for around an hour or more each day in the school pickup line. (eek2)(headshake They said TBN showed plenty of additives left, and recommended going 8K miles on my next interval! (thumb)
Remember that one :D

Please post your UOA report to SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread.
 
204,000 miles- replaced another wheel bearing.
Sometimes the infotainment system acts up and "play album" commands turn off the screen. That always goes away when I shut the car off got bit and restart.
I'm getting my oil changed every 4000 miles or so and I'm finding I'm about a quart low. I'm just going to the local valvoline and having them change it... I'm aware of the OEM filter being different than whatever valvoline is probably using- I'm not aware that it's a big enough issue for me.
No noticeable changes from when I got the car at 184,000. Took it for an 8-hour drive the other day to buy a POS vintage mountain bike... no complaints. Nice and quiet with that new bearing.
 
204,000 miles- replaced another wheel bearing.
Sometimes the infotainment system acts up and "play album" commands turn off the screen. That always goes away when I shut the car off got bit and restart.
I'm getting my oil changed every 4000 miles or so and I'm finding I'm about a quart low. I'm just going to the local valvoline and having them change it... I'm aware of the OEM filter being different than whatever valvoline is probably using- I'm not aware that it's a big enough issue for me.
No noticeable changes from when I got the car at 184,000. Took it for an 8-hour drive the other day to buy a POS vintage mountain bike... no complaints. Nice and quiet with that new bearing.

Try running 5w30 to address your burning. Also less blowby.
I replaced my front bearings a few weeks ago, paid 80 for the set. Probably will do my rears soon.
 
151k, replaced the rod end bearings after that incident a few weeks ago. Just back today after driving 1000mi from san antonio tx to Atlanta ga for a weeks stay. No problems and topped out a few times. The new drilled/slotted rotors are the s***. Much better performance than any of the oem or oem type replacements ive used prior. They do make a flicking noise (like thumbing card deck) at low speed but it's hard to hear unless the window is open and near an wall or something. But apparently that's common for any drill/slotted rotor.
 
Coming up on 70k. Is that the informal *high mileage* hurdle? :D seems to just be broken in (thumb)

I recently replaced the serpentine belt, belt tensioner and water pump belt. No complaints there.

My brakes are finally getting a little low (original, never replaced). I ordered front and rear Akebono ACT pads and hopefully I can install those next weekend. I also ordered the Lisle caliper tool to reset those along with some Permatex synthetic grease and some brake parts cleaner. I think the rotors are fine so those will stay. There*s no glazing and very little rotor material has worn away. I can barely feel a ridge with my fingernail along the outer edge of the rotor. Currently no pulsations or squeaks while braking.

Both my Mazda and Odyssey could use a brake fluid change so I*m going to do a flush and replace with ATE SL6 while I*m at it. The Mazda currently has Valvoline synthetic brake fluid and it worked just fine. It*s about 2 years old and still testing 1% water content with a cheap electric tester. The Honda has the original brake fluid form purchase. 2.5 years old and also testing 1% water.

The paint and trim is holding up very well on the Mazda! It*s been garage kept overnight and while at my work. I don*t know if I*ve ever waxed it. I used to do that obsessively on other cars but having kids changes things, lol. I*m going to remedy that while the paint still looks good. I got a clay bar kit, Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Paste Wax and a double action polisher (all Meguiars). I*ve got a big move coming up where I*ll likely be losing a garage for a while, so I want the car to be as protected as possible prior to a new home purchase. I might get the Wolfgang exterior trim protectant to take care of all that exterior plastic too.
 
Thinking about it more, I'm just going to replace the rotors while I'm at it. 70k was really good for all original hardware and that lip on the outer edge concerns me some. I'd hate to ruin a new set of pads and I don't have time to get the originals resurfaced (if they even have enough material to begin with). I went with Advance Auto's Carquest Platinum painted rotors. It was between those and Centric Premium. Having a store nearby and a 2 year warranty beat out an online sale with 90 day/3000 mile warranty in the end :D Hope to install them this weekend.
 
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151k, replaced the rod end bearings after that incident a few weeks ago. Just back today after driving 1000mi from san antonio tx to Atlanta ga for a weeks stay. No problems and topped out a few times. The new drilled/slotted rotors are the s***. Much better performance than any of the oem or oem type replacements ive used prior. They do make a flicking noise (like thumbing card deck) at low speed but it's hard to hear unless the window is open and near an wall or something. But apparently that's common for any drill/slotted rotor.

I'll have to replace my rotors when these wear again. Shops won't turn them again. Glad to hear the report.
 
Just hit 70K km, had the auto-trany replaced under warranty. Not a failure per say, but it developed an "abnormal" noise - basically whenever I'd be coasting at low speed on a parking lot or coming to a stop - there would be a grinding noise. I'd suspect one of the main bearings, but apparently Mazda doesn't open these up - just swap for a new one.

A real bummer considering how much time and money I'm investing in preventive maintenance.

I'm also suspecting that the old trainy simply couldn't take all the hate waves I was sending here way... The more I own the CX-5, the more I hate how the auto-tranny shifts. The one who programmed it - definitely was some very special kind of retard and only had soccer moms and old geezer as target audience in mind.
 
Just hit 70K km, had the auto-trany replaced under warranty. Not a failure per say, but it developed an "abnormal" noise - basically whenever I'd be coasting at low speed on a parking lot or coming to a stop - there would be a grinding noise. I'd suspect one of the main bearings, but apparently Mazda doesn't open these up - just swap for a new one.

A real bummer considering how much time and money I'm investing in preventive maintenance.

I'm also suspecting that the old trainy simply couldn't take all the hate waves I was sending here way... The more I own the CX-5, the more I hate how the auto-tranny shifts. The one who programmed it - definitely was some very special kind of retard and only had soccer moms and old geezer as target audience in mind.

LOL. I watched a YouTube engineering video on the SkyActiv transmission somebody shared here. They engineered the transmission to have the torque converter locked as much as possible while driving. There is not much slipping at all when engaging or disengaging like a traditional transmission which allowed a small bump in efficiency.
 
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I'm also suspecting that the old trainy simply couldn't take all the hate waves I was sending here way... The more I own the CX-5, the more I hate how the auto-tranny shifts. The one who programmed it - definitely was some very special kind of retard and only had soccer moms and old geezer as target audience in mind.

Eh? Mines extremely peppy.
 
I'm very anti political correctness. Really. But retard? That IS one word that needs to go away. Come on, man.
Carry on...
 
Just hit 70K km, had the auto-trany replaced under warranty. Not a failure per say, but it developed an "abnormal" noise - basically whenever I'd be coasting at low speed on a parking lot or coming to a stop - there would be a grinding noise. I'd suspect one of the main bearings, but apparently Mazda doesn't open these up - just swap for a new one.

A real bummer considering how much time and money I'm investing in preventive maintenance.

I'm also suspecting that the old trainy simply couldn't take all the hate waves I was sending here way... The more I own the CX-5, the more I hate how the auto-tranny shifts. The one who programmed it - definitely was some very special kind of retard and only had soccer moms and old geezer as target audience in mind.

Do the old and the new shift the same?
 
Second day of being warranty free.. I feel like the motor overall will be reliable for me even with the really small TC cover leak. I think if anything goes it will be the AT or the rear diff if I experience a catastrophic failure. The front transfer seems to be fairly solid. At least Mazda made a lot of vehicles with the same drivetrain parts. Used parts on major components should be reasonable in cost.
 
Do the old and the new shift the same?

It's worse actually as she's still learning, but overall it's the same. Very "sticky" - 9 times of 10 it wouldn't downshift when I need it to, unless I really floor it - and then she goes down 2 gears at once with all the jerkiness involved. "Sport" mode is a hit and miss with me - it makes everything peppy-er, but unless you floor it all the time - there's also a tendency to stick and the engine brake is always on - which isn't always necessary. I'm also finding the new one a bit harsher - say when I'm shifting from P into R or D. My original one was smoother.

The gist of it - I'm so used to driving manuals that any "modern" AT optimised for fuel efficiency - annoys the hell of me. My wife's 2nd gen Mazda 3 AT with 2L!!!! shifts a lot better actually and is much more fun to drive. No Skyactive horse-rubbish... The way I see it - I either need to get something manual (and there isn't much out there with comparable back space) or something with a V6/8 - which will dampen the inherent idiocy of automatics.
 
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