What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

Ordered the Rola roof bars. I know they're cheaper than the high-end brands, but I just couldn't stomach forking over $400+ for what amount to metal bars with plastic ends that cross the roof.

Hopeful!
 
Sokietech Hood dampers installed

I didn't really do this today, but just wanted to share. I bought these on Amazon, but they are priced the same on eBay and elsewhere. Install was fairly straight forward. The only thing I find nagging is how slowly the hood opens. These dampers were designed and made in Asia and perhaps vehicles there have lighter hoods (less insulation, perhaps). You also have to be careful when closing the hood, or it will just slam shut from about 12 inches off. But it's only a matter of lowering it to about 5-6 inches from closing and let the gravity do the work.


 
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I didn't really do this today, but just wanted to share. I bought these on Amazon, but they are priced the same on eBay and elsewhere. Install was fairly straight forward. The only thing I find nagging is how slowly the hood opens. These dampers were designed and made in Asia and perhaps vehicles there have lighter hoods (less insulation, perhaps). You also have to be careful when closing the hood, or it will just slam shut from about 12 inches off. But it's only a matter of lowering it to about 5-6 inches from closing and let the gravity do the work.
Very cool. I hadn't considered doing this to the 5, but now I am. Couple questions;

  1. Is the fully open position higher than stock, lower, or about the same?
  2. Does the hood take a decent amount of muscle to begin to close when starting from fully open?

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
eBay link: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
Very cool. I hadn't considered doing this to the 5, but now I am. Couple questions;

  1. Is the fully open position higher than stock, lower, or about the same?
  2. Does the hood take a decent amount of muscle to begin to close when starting from fully open?

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
eBay link: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Fully open position is an inch or so higher. When fully open, the old hood prop will not engage. As I mentioned in my original post, I think these dampers are somewhat undersized as it does not take muscle at all when closing. If anything, it is very easy to lower it to just about close position and just let it drop. It is very easy to accidentally slam the hood down when closing it with muscle.
 
A repost to help others.

Thought I might add my 2 cents about MY09 GT:

Thank you to to all the contributors to this forum, I've enjoyed reading all the helpful hints to make the MZ5 a great mini,mini van.

My Story on MY09 GT:

Dyno- matted and sound insulated entire interior (took one month/everyday/retired), New JL Audio TR 570-CXi Speakers, stock Navigation head unit= sounds great, no need to put in amplifier, some wind and road noise still...but much quieter!!! and the Clunking/knocking Noise!!!

Nitto Motivo Tires = Quiet and Grippy, Now Conti DWS 06 225/45-18 = quiet and grippy.

Update:

The noise I that I can still hear is probably from the low profile tires, Continental DWS 06,225/45-18 inflated to 37 psi to provide even wear.
It sounds more like riding on a over inflated balloon tire that is hollow with a thumpy sound. Happy with all sound deadening I preformed on the 5. Again its not a Lexus, maybe an Acura.

Tired of the knocking noise in the front since i bought the MZ5 used. with 19K miles, now 60k...

To quiet down the van: I Did Everything... Koni FDS, Moog end links F/R, installed prothane RSB bushes-still made clunky noise and squeeked-removed them, then replaced with Updated OEM FSB/ MS3 RSB, ,, to no avail..., the clunking continued about a week after replacing the OEM FSB bushes...frustrating, maybe the clunk will disappear after the PMM is replaced. (eric the car guy on youtube sugguested it might be the motor mount)

Update;

I've installed the Second Generation PMM and the Ford Focus E RMM and agree with the above comments: Slight vibrations at in drive at stop lights and no slipping or spinning wheels at hard acceleration from stand still.

Still have Clunking!

I found out the clunking noise was the "new" installed Moog front end links, noise came back one week after install. Didn't think it was end links because the FSB bushes were replaced at the same time. This was tested by disconnecting sway bar end of the end link on one side The upper ball joint had enough movement that caused the clunk/click. Maybe I installed the wrong part on the 5. The struts were Koni 4045 for the MS3 and used the MS3 specified Moog front link (cad plated discs at both ends w zerk fittings that interfere with strut housing). Going to try the new improved Moog end link "Problem Solver"for the MZ5, solid black joints, off set zerk fittings... hopefully this will work![/B]

SPC adjustable camber arms (even tire wear,raised tire pressure to 38 psi), Stock Mz5 Springs, MS3 Front Calipers with Centric Hi Carbon Rotors, SS brake lines, Hawk HPS 50 Pads, 2010 MS3 18" Rims (5 have bent on roads in the Bay Area+ soft stock MS3 rims),


Although the EXE rear exhaust makes the MZ5 sound more sporty, the van can out manuver and out brake the Elise, plus can carry bags of dirt for the Mrs.(nana)

Update:
I found out the clunking noise was the "new" installed Moog front end links, noise came back one week after install. Didn't think it was end links because the FSB bushes were replaced at the same time. This was tested by disconnecting sway bar end of the end link on one side The upper ball joint had enough movement that caused the clunk/click. Maybe I installed the wrong part on the 5. The struts were Koni 4045 for the MS3 and used the MS3 specified Moog front link (cad plated discs at both ends w zerk fittings that interfere with strut housing). Going to try the new improved Moog end link "Problem Solver"for the MZ5, solid black joints, off set zerk fittings... hopefully this will work!

The noise I that I can still hear is probably from the low profile tires, Continental DWS 06,225/45-18 inflated to 37 psi to provide even wear.

It sounds more like riding on a over inflated balloon tire that is hollow with a thumpy sound. Happy with all sound deadening I preformed on the 5. Again its not a Lexus, maybe an Acura.

Update...the MZ5 is running great and nothing to fix!!! GOT RID OF THE CLUNK!

I have replaced my Front and Rear Sway Bar Bushes with Upgraded and Current OEM Bushes,Energy Suspension Poly Bushes and Moog K200675 Blue Bush FSB. The Moog proved to be the MOST EFFECTIVE replacement bushing for me! I bought them thru RockAuto.com.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....202106&jsn=399


The OEM bush lasted a few months before Clunked Again!

The Energy Suspension bushed squeeked w/in a few months even with the approved lubricant!

The Moog Blue Bushing was Nirvana! No Clunk or Noise....this was after I did everything except changing the LCA bushes...I mean every thing!

Top Hats on suspension, Koni FSD, Moog End Links, Motor Mounts all except Trans Mount...Used E Focus RMM, no wheel hop!

Hope this helps!
 
A repost to help others.


The Moog Blue Bushing was Nirvana! No Clunk or Noise....this was after I did everything except changing the LCA bushes...I mean every thing!

Top Hats on suspension, Koni FSD, Moog End Links, Motor Mounts all except Trans Mount...Used E Focus RMM, no wheel hop!

Hope this helps!

You might want to edit that post a bit, seems to be a bit of an editing mess lol.

Glad you got it sorted finally, I think Moog makes a crappy product personally, I had trouble with new links failing as well.
 
Drain and filled the ATF for the first time in the car's life, I'm sure, at 52k miles. Drained exactly 4 quarts and put in 4 quarts of Valvoline Max Life. I come from the VW world where an ATF you buy at Wal-mart that is compatible with 10 different makes is avoided at all costs so it felt weird, but was on the list of approved fluids per this forum. I didn't see Mazda M-V listed as a spec on the bottle, though. (scratch) Quick test drive shows buttery smooth s****, though they weren't very rough before.

I plan on doing another drain and fill in a few months. I may install an in-line filter and/or cooler at that time, too. It can get really hot here in the summer.

Oh, and I cleaned the engine bay afterwards which felt good.
 
Changed a forgotten filter

Today I learned not to assume that since all the other filters were changed when we bought the 5 off the lot, that someone must have changed the cabin filter too.

Cabin2017.jpg
(Pile of leaves removed for clarity.)
 
Car crash hassle is finally over, now the work starts.
(referring to #3033 )

Adjuster found the damage worth $2400, I cashed in to the dismay of the adjuster who happened to have her Geico office in an independent but Geico approved shop. (sadbanana) - haha.
Also accepted offers for pain & suffering. In the end, we got off pretty well but I would not want to re-live it again for the amount we are now in the plus thanks to the drunkard driver.

Bought the bumper reinforcement + styrofoam already from a prof. junkyard (no self-service).
Came in the mail with a barely dry coat of spraypaint and some flaking surface rust below (nothing structural).
Still pissed because because it took me 40mins to clean & sand it and give it the first coat of primer instead of starting the repair.
Heads up all you out there to expect this on certain parts from certain sources. I can see it being somewhat common practice.
 
First oil change...and lower shield replacement!

My new-to-me M5 GT got it's first servicing this weekend: R&R the original battery, and then an oil change.

That let me swap out the original lower engine shield with it's replacement. I'd noticed a piece of it was broken when I examined the car during my test drive.

Turns out: about 2/3rds of it was GONE. Judging from the what was left, I think the original owner scraped over a cement parking bumper and ruined it.

All tidy looking now with the new one. I like how they left some service access openings in the new design, that was a bit of a pain to have to R&R the whole thing for each oil change on 2010 (and I didn't feel like cutting a hole in that one!).

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/
 

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Preetty sure my '14 doesn't have the access hole on the left which is probably for draining the transmission. "Lifetime fluid"... (rolleyes)

I think the one on 14MY looks the same. When I removed it prior to my first (and only so far) ATF drain, I got CG15-56-110A off of the sticker on it. I think the same part was used for all 2012+ 5's. I could not figure out a way to drain ATF with the shield on so ended up removing it. That hole is probably for something else. I do appreciate the oil filter access though!
 
My new-to-me M5 GT got it's first servicing this weekend: R&R the original battery, and then and oil change.

That let me swap out the original lower engine shield with it's replacement. I'd noticed a piece of it was broken when I examined the car during my test drive.

Turns out: about 2/3rds of it was GONE. Judging from the what was left, I think the original owner scraped over a cement parking bumper and ruined it.

All tidy looking now with the new one. I like how they left some service access openings in the new design, that was a bit of a pain to have to R&R the whole thing for each oil change on 2010 (and I didn't feel like cutting a hole in that one!).

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/
I used a 5" hole saw to make a filter access hole on my 09. Very silly they didn't consider it themselves.
 
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