Change automatic transmission fluid?

I just used the following when I needed to remove the dipstick bolt. I was able to get my hand on dipstick.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-super-long-extension-set-67975.html

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..and a pickup tool to remove loosened bolt for removal as well as get thread started to tighten dipstick bolt..

http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-2-in-1-pickup-tool-94162.html

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Is the dipstick tube bolt NOT accessible by hand once the air filter is removed?

It should be accessible and give you more room to work with. Just that some of us are lazy to remove the whole air filter/box assembly and if you can reach it with your hand without removing the air filter box, it will save you a little bit of time.
 
Replaced the transmission oil today. ... Haven't really checked the fluid level yet though, just assuming that it's correct.
So did you pour in 4 quarts of fresh Mazda Type FZ ATF for the drain-and-fill?
 
3 quarts and about ~24 oz, still have a little bit left on the 4th bottle.

Was this with vehicle level or front on ramps or lifted?

I like the extra room ramps gives me so will put on 4 ramps when I change mine. It really is much easier to remove the splash shield alone if front is lifted. I was reminded of this when I removed it to take pictures for my fluid leak recently and left it on the ground.
 
Was this with vehicle level or front on ramps or lifted?

I like the extra room ramps gives me so will put on 4 ramps when I change mine. It really is much easier to remove the splash shield alone if front is lifted. I was reminded of this when I removed it to take pictures for my fluid leak recently and left it on the ground.

I haven't checked the atf stick to see if the fluid level was correct or not, I just drained it, pour the used oil into 4x 1 quart bottles and filled it back up with the amount it was drained.
 
runtohell121 : Just curious if you jacked up your CX-5 to change fluid or just changed on level ground.
 
I first changed the fluid in mine at about 20,000 miles due to issues with really hard shifts (and was chastised online for doing it). It immediately improved the shifting. Over the years since then I've done a double drain and fill about 4 more times. I use an extractor pump that sucks the fluid out through the fill tube. It gets 3 quarts each time. I do it once one day and then again the next day after driving it. I know it still doesn't get all the fluid out but it does get more. I worked at a Honda dealer years ago and Honda's suggestion was doing that 3 times but this fluid is expensive and 2 seems to keep things working smoothly at 103,000 miles. Maybe it is psychological but it does always seem to shift better after; I just don't notice the shifts much at all after the change.

The oil extractors have gotten more expensive though, but what hasn't: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123

With a stubby socket wrench I just reach down in to take the dip stick bolt out and then use the extractor to suck the 3 quarts out. Then I use 2 thin ATF funnels. I put one funnel into the opening and then the other positions above the first so that the fluid just pours down in like a fountain.
 
So, how are you guys checking the actual fluid level?? Are you pulling the stick from underneath with the bottom cover off with engine running, or are you checking from top with the air cleaner assembly off and the engine running without it?
 
I first changed the fluid in mine at about 20,000 miles due to issues with really hard shifts (and was chastised online for doing it). It immediately improved the shifting. Over the years since then I've done a double drain and fill about 4 more times. I use an extractor pump that sucks the fluid out through the fill tube. It gets 3 quarts each time. I do it once one day and then again the next day after driving it. I know it still doesn't get all the fluid out but it does get more. I worked at a Honda dealer years ago and Honda's suggestion was doing that 3 times but this fluid is expensive and 2 seems to keep things working smoothly at 103,000 miles. Maybe it is psychological but it does always seem to shift better after; I just don't notice the shifts much at all after the change.

The oil extractors have gotten more expensive though, but what hasn't: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123

With a stubby socket wrench I just reach down in to take the dip stick bolt out and then use the extractor to suck the 3 quarts out. Then I use 2 thin ATF funnels. I put one funnel into the opening and then the other positions above the first so that the fluid just pours down in like a fountain.

Not sure why you would get chastized. I'd do the drain/fill 3x process as well. Much more effective than a 1x process as there's still old oil mainly in the torque converter.
 
Not sure why you would get chastized. I'd do the drain/fill 3x process as well. Much more effective than a 1x process as there's still old oil mainly in the torque converter.

Somebody in the past mentioned that CX-5 (Actually all SkyActive Mazdas) retain only 5% of ATF in TC. If that's the case, it is not worth extra effort.
 
I have decided not to change the ATF. My Dad's chevy work van (well over a decade old) now has @440K miles on the OEM transmission and fill, and if it can do it, my Mazda can do it, or I'll find a car that will. Mazda says not to, so I'll abide their rules. I've seen time and again cars and trucks go 300k+ on OEM ATF that WASN'T this new fangled stuff.

Ultimately, it's cost/benefit.

I live in an apartment, so all stuff like this is dealer-only. ATF fluid exchange is around $300.

If you want to adopt a normal plan, it's changing fluid AT LEAST every 50-75k miles.

That means $300 at 50k, $600 at 100k, $900 at 150k, $1200 at 200k, and right around there, I have NEVER heard of a transmission dying because the fluid was not changed (now, this is not to say they don't die for other random reasons. Here's lookin' at you, early 2000's Ford Taurus... and Acura 3.2...). Even transmissions that have OEM maintenance recommendations regarding fluid exchanges. So at the 200k mark, you're $1200 in, for nothing. Absolutely zilch.

Now you start to be able to make arguments, IMO. "Well, if you'd changed the fluid, it wouldn't have died at 280K miles..." Okay, maybe...maybe not...but by then you're the better half of $2K in. And that's assuming you HAVE the car at 280K miles. And that the motor has not died. Etc.

Basically...it ain't worth it. Not unless it's part of the manufacturer's recommended program, and it's not, in Mazda's case.


FYI, I have 55K miles on my 2015 CX5 2.5L, and it shifts the same as it did at 27.8K miles when I bought it. Better, if anything.
 
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Basically...it ain't worth it. Not unless it's part of the manufacturer's recommended program, and it's not, in Mazda's case.
FYI, I have 55K miles on my 2015 CX5 2.5L, and it shifts the same as it did at 27.8K miles when I bought it. Better, if anything.

I would not pay a dealer to do the service - $300 is a ripoff. DIY is $50/change for the FZ oil ordered on amazon or through your dealer. I think it's worth doing every 30K to keep the fluid clean. Mine was brown at 50K and the shifts have improved dramatically since I did it, and it was easy to do with it being a simple drain, measure, and refill. I wish I had done it sooner. I can almost guarantee you'll get 100K out of the transmission without a fluid change without a hiccup, but beyond that who knows? Fluid gets contaminated and shears, and at 50K mine didn't smell fresh. It's already a super thin viscosity oil. I assume Mazda feels most owners will get rid of the car at around 120K miles (which is when the coolant needs changing for the very first time, but oddly is scheduled every 60K afterwards?), and if that's the case it will be on the second owner if the transmission goes out (typical). If you plan to honestly keep your car for 300K+ miles, you should do regular fluid changes on it. Don't believe me? Look at what Mercedes Benz recommends on their cars - they got burned with lifetime fluid a while back and have since changed their ways. Why do you think the engineers put a drain bolt on the pan? :) Goodluck Unobtanium with your decision, I hope it saves you a few bucks.
 
I would not pay a dealer to do the service - $300 is a ripoff. DIY is $50/change for the FZ oil ordered on amazon or through your dealer. I think it's worth doing every 30K to keep the fluid clean. Mine was brown at 50K and the shifts have improved dramatically since I did it, and it was easy to do with it being a simple drain, measure, and refill. I wish I had done it sooner. I can almost guarantee you'll get 100K out of the transmission without a fluid change without a hiccup, but beyond that who knows? Fluid gets contaminated and shears, and at 50K mine didn't smell fresh. It's already a super thin viscosity oil. I assume Mazda feels most owners will get rid of the car at around 120K miles (which is when the coolant needs changing for the very first time, but oddly is scheduled every 60K afterwards?), and if that's the case it will be on the second owner if the transmission goes out (typical). If you plan to honestly keep your car for 300K+ miles, you should do regular fluid changes on it. Don't believe me? Look at what Mercedes Benz recommends on their cars - they got burned with lifetime fluid a while back and have since changed their ways. Why do you think the engineers put a drain bolt on the pan? :) Goodluck Unobtanium with your decision, I hope it saves you a few bucks.

Well, time will tell. I have gotten burned changing fluid before, so I'll try not doing it. That has never burned me, at least!
 
I have 50,000 kms on my 2014 CX5 and brought it in for an oil change and winter tire swap today. First, about halfway through, the service guy tells me I need a new cabin air filter and engine air filter (I changed both manually last March....so I told him no, I'll do it myself). Then, after the oil change was completed and all season tires packed away in the hatch, as I was paying the bill, the service guy tells me I should get a transmission fluid flush next time I bring it in for service...and quoted me $200 (Cdn). After reading this thread, I'm a bit skeptical. Is it normal to have your transmission flushed at 55-60,000 kms??

Bon Scott
 
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⋯ the service guy tells me I should get a transmission fluid flush next time I bring it in for service...and quoted me $200 (Cdn).
You should be skeptical when your dealer told you you need a transmission fluid "flush". SkyActiv-Drive AT is designed a little differently from the most other automatic transmissions and it circulates engine coolant "into" the transmission for cooling. This means there's no way to use any ATF flush machine to hook up ATF lines and do the flush. Drain-and-fill is the only way to change our ATF and is the only method mentioned in the factory service manual.
 
I would not pay a dealer to do the service - $300 is a ripoff. DIY is $50/change for the FZ oil ordered on amazon or through your dealer. I think it's worth doing every 30K to keep the fluid clean. Mine was brown at 50K and the shifts have improved dramatically since I did it, and it was easy to do with it being a simple drain, measure, and refill. I wish I had done it sooner. I can almost guarantee you'll get 100K out of the transmission without a fluid change without a hiccup, but beyond that who knows? Fluid gets contaminated and shears, and at 50K mine didn't smell fresh. It's already a super thin viscosity oil. I assume Mazda feels most owners will get rid of the car at around 120K miles (which is when the coolant needs changing for the very first time, but oddly is scheduled every 60K afterwards?), and if that's the case it will be on the second owner if the transmission goes out (typical). If you plan to honestly keep your car for 300K+ miles, you should do regular fluid changes on it. Don't believe me? Look at what Mercedes Benz recommends on their cars - they got burned with lifetime fluid a while back and have since changed their ways. Why do you think the engineers put a drain bolt on the pan? :) Goodluck Unobtanium with your decision, I hope it saves you a few bucks.
Well said! And I believe Unobtanium's bad experience on his ATF flush is because he's been waiting too long to do the ATF "flush". Many people have said if you waited too long to change the ATF, especially doing the flush, it'd dislodge all the existing tiny debris which may actually cause transmission problems. And it'd be better off not to change the ATF if it haven't been changed for a long time.
 
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