What have you done to your MS3 today?

Those OEMS were pretty darn good. Really stopped nicely.
Car was rated near a Porsche 911 back in 2007 in stopping distance 60-0.
I overheated them a couple times from serious abuse back when. But i thought quite highly of their high performance.wear be damned !!
Mike i might be catching behind to you with mileage. I think she is still at about 87k after almost two years in the garage
The OEMs are definitely very good brakes. Pads and rotors just came at a bad time financially. You may have to leave yours in the garage for a while :D I'll be at 87,000 when I've had it another seven years. At that point, it'll be eligible for an "antique" tag in another three years.
 
Completed my BNR stage 1 turbo install. Two Saturday project. One to remove smoking K04, second to install BNR replacement. Stage 1 uses K04 externals modifled for a Garrett GT28 series CHRA. Same flow and spool characteristics as OEM, but no smoking risk. Compatible with stock tune and mild tunes like my Hypertech with my mods.

Not "difficult" if you follow the Corksport tutorial with photos, but you do need a lot of tools.
 
Completed my BNR stage 1 turbo install. Two Saturday project. One to remove smoking K04, second to install BNR replacement. Stage 1 uses K04 externals modifled for a Garrett GT28 series CHRA. Same flow and spool characteristics as OEM, but no smoking risk. Compatible with stock tune and mild tunes like my Hypertech with my mods.

Not "difficult" if you follow the Corksport tutorial with photos, but you do need a lot of tools.

Nice!!
 
Jeez that really blows!!! SMH

Yeah... Replaced the rears with Moog 'universal' TMU 31.75mm bushings and brackets- $16 for the pair from Advance Auto Parts. My bushings were okay, but the drivers bracket was bent when I received my JBR, reformed it, but had a slight clunk from the rear left- it's now gone.

Polished the headlamps and they look great. Also did the girlfriends Accord.

I think I'm going to replace my front end links- I can't pull or tug on them and feel movement, but the sound is just like a link.
 
Put in my downpipe today!! Pretty happy but it was a pain to do!! Now I just have to save up for a turbo. Not sure which one though?? Any thoughts?
 
Put in my downpipe today!! Pretty happy but it was a pain to do!! Now I just have to save up for a turbo. Not sure which one though?? Any thoughts?

I'm waiting to replace the downpipe along with the turbo. However, I think I'll probably go with the Corksport for 'ease of install'. People complain of boost creep, but per Corksport, there were design changes to correct it.
 
Put in my downpipe today!! Pretty happy but it was a pain to do!! Now I just have to save up for a turbo. Not sure which one though?? Any thoughts?

What downpipe did you go with?

I'm thinking of going with the CNT downpipe.
 
I'm waiting to replace the downpipe along with the turbo. However, I think I'll probably go with the Corksport for 'ease of install'. People complain of boost creep, but per Corksport, there were design changes to correct it.

I was looking into the corksport and I like the ease like you said. I also was looking at the bnr s3 and s4.
 
I think I'm just going to do fuel pump internals, downpipe, upgraded TMIC and maybe the upgraded turbo and be done with power mods to the car. I went stupid with the MSP, think I'll just add some power and leave it "relatively" stock.
 
I think I'm just going to do fuel pump internals, downpipe, upgraded TMIC and maybe the upgraded turbo and be done with power mods to the car. I went stupid with the MSP, think I'll just add some power and leave it "relatively" stock.

Awesome.. car is fun with those mods
 
Okay. So. That clunk/rattle/bang noise from the front of the vehicle is on the left side. It occurs at slow speeds over very rough terrain -OR- loading/unloading the drivetrain. My intake hasn't been mounted properly so that was secured as well as securing the lower engine cover as the metal support was detached from the plastic. I didn't expect the noise to be from either of those items, but they needed to be corrected either way. If I load the drivetrain, depress the clutch quickly, I can duplicate the noise. If I do heavy engine braking, when going back into throttle there is a small 'bump' felt as though something is shifting backward. I'm going to disconnect my sway links and road test it, but it seems more drivetrain related. Just so happens that it occurs at low speeds over very rough terrain.
 
Okay. So. That clunk/rattle/bang noise from the front of the vehicle is on the left side. It occurs at slow speeds over very rough terrain -OR- loading/unloading the drivetrain. My intake hasn't been mounted properly so that was secured as well as securing the lower engine cover as the metal support was detached from the plastic. I didn't expect the noise to be from either of those items, but they needed to be corrected either way. If I load the drivetrain, depress the clutch quickly, I can duplicate the noise. If I do heavy engine braking, when going back into throttle there is a small 'bump' felt as though something is shifting backward. I'm going to disconnect my sway links and road test it, but it seems more drivetrain related. Just so happens that it occurs at low speeds over very rough terrain.

In my experience on several Mazda cars, it always comes down to the sway bar bushings.... When you disconnect the endlinks, you can then rotate the swaybar freely, and you can then feel the play in the sway bar bushings.
 
In my experience on several Mazda cars, it always comes down to the sway bar bushings.... When you disconnect the endlinks, you can then rotate the swaybar freely, and you can then feel the play in the sway bar bushings.
Oh, I know. 11 years with Mazdas has shown me that. Bushings look to be okay- previous page you'll see where I checked them and found them to be okay, but the passenger bracket retaining bolt has been broken off in the subframe and some asshat tack welded the bracket directly to the frame.
 
In my experience on several Mazda cars, it always comes down to the sway bar bushings.... When you disconnect the endlinks, you can then rotate the swaybar freely, and you can then feel the play in the sway bar bushings.
Oh, I know. 11 years with Mazdas has shown me that. Bushings look to be okay- previous page you'll see where I checked them and found them to be okay, but the passenger bracket retaining bolt has been broken off in the subframe and some asshat tack welded the bracket directly to the frame.
 
Oh, I know. 11 years with Mazdas has shown me that. Bushings look to be okay- previous page you'll see where I checked them and found them to be okay, but the passenger bracket retaining bolt has been broken off in the subframe and some asshat tack welded the bracket directly to the frame.

To me they have always "looked ok"... LOL

I could not believe that when I read that about yours being welded. (gah)
THAT IS MESSED UP BROTHER! :'(

I have 2 new Mazda OEM brackets I can send you... I got them as spares, but my old brackets were not rusty or abused so they were not needed.

However it sounds like you are going to need an angle grinder, easy outs, left handed drill bits, a torch, and some good karma for your mess...
 
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Okay. So. That clunk/rattle/bang noise from the front of the vehicle is on the left side. It occurs at slow speeds over very rough terrain -OR- loading/unloading the drivetrain. My intake hasn't been mounted properly so that was secured as well as securing the lower engine cover as the metal support was detached from the plastic. I didn't expect the noise to be from either of those items, but they needed to be corrected either way. If I load the drivetrain, depress the clutch quickly, I can duplicate the noise. If I do heavy engine braking, when going back into throttle there is a small 'bump' felt as though something is shifting backward. I'm going to disconnect my sway links and road test it, but it seems more drivetrain related. Just so happens that it occurs at low speeds over very rough terrain.
Try to get a look at the Drivers side motor mount. May not be easy with the battery tray right there. Does not sound like sway bar linkage to me but of course it could be.
Bang might be MM. Clunk could be end links. Control arm bushings Ball joint. Rattle i would have guessed intake, or turbo inlet piping.
Have some one watch your engine rotate while you rev it in neutral.

also you could take a jack, again with two people, and lightly !! lift the transmission side of the casing while someone watches from above.
Not for nothin' but how does the passenger side motor mount look up top ?
 
I ordered a new transmission mount as well as end links. I think the noise is the drivers side end link, though, admittedly, I've done zero diagnosing and just ordered the parts. Also have a restrictor bolt ordered. Trying to put off the turbocharger replacement until after vacation (in May). Also picked up a 'race pipe' for cheap, so figure I might throw that on this weekend. Actually, not sure I'll even touch the MS3 this weekend. I have the parts to re-bearing the Protege5 as well as address a few other issues in order to sell it. Installing a crank, bearings, oil pump, rear seals, timing belt, belt tensioner, water pump, HVAC switch, A/C drier, A/C low-side line, ignition coils, tires and all four (4) engine mounts. Other than that, I've still got to pick up a transmission for it. Engine is only held into the engine bay by the passenger mount and supported by a jack. Very busy weekend ahead for me I do believe.
 
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