Engine Harness and Starter Issues

So... Start with the TR switch and test it for power.

With the key held in start position and the transmission set at D either H or B will be +12 V ... That one is your input.
Then put it in P or N and the other one should get +12 V.



Remember, you don't have to disconnect anything... Just probe the back of the TR switch connector.

The wire that goes to +12 V only in Park or Neutral is the wire you want to splice. (either H or B... With the key held to start)
 
The same sort of thing happened to my friends car.
His brake lights went out and there was no power to the fuse. The circuit was supposed to be live all the time.

I wired right from the battery, through a fuse, then to the fusebox where I soldered the wire to a fuse blade and plugged it in where the fuse was to activate the circuit.

He was told a mechanic would have charged him $600-$700 for the job. They probably would have replaced a harness or tried to trace the wire.... I just bypassed everything.
 
@pcb haven't forgot about the thread. Got the car back in the house today and decided to take an inspection at the ignition switch. Is the contact supposed to be clear? Found a YouTube video where a guy had starting problems and his switch looks "sooty."

Here is a picture of what I am talking about. What do you think?

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I don't know if it's supposed to be clear.. It could have just gotten dirty over time.
I would assume the dirty area would be sealed from the actual switches. There's a whole bunch of little switches/contacts inside and any one of them could wear out/get dirty over time.

I remember Mr. Giggles had a bad ignition switch... I think if he wiggled his key, the lights would flicker ???

That video was almost exactly the same problem as yours, except his issue was intermittent and yours won't work at all.

It looks really difficult to test the switch when it's installed but you maybe able to test continuity with it removed.

It's not toooo much money for a new one and it may very well fix your problem.

RockAuto's price... (30% cheaper in US funds)



I still wonder about why your car started fine before the engine blew and now it won't start at all.... Makes me suspect wiring near the explosion area.

Remember the power goes through the ignition switch then to the TR switch then to the start fuse and starter.

You could still test for power at the TR switch to see if it's getting through the ignition switch... Although I don't knowhow easily accessible the connector is..
 
Here is a picture of what I am talking about. What do you think?

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I suppose if the plastic notch where the tab from the ignition tumbler mates with it, is worn, there could be enough slop that the ignition switch won't rotate enough to engage start mode ????

The tab in the video looks quite a bit smaller than the opening in the switch...

But I would still suspect some intermittent issues before your engine blew.

Remember, the best way to know for sure is to test for power and trace it's path.
It doesn't have to be that difficult.

You can use a voltmeter and ground the negative probe somewhere with an alligator clip.
Then, with the sharp end of the red probe, you can poke right into the wire, through the insulation, to get a reading on any particular wire an inch or few back from the connector where the wires are more accessible.

If you're set to voltage you should see 12 V on the start wire and see it switching (0 V- 12 V) as you turn the key from "run" to "start" position. Then do the same thing at the TR switch.
 
I found this, if you want to test your switch...

(this is a continuity test so it is done with your multimeter set to ohms and the battery disconnected...
My way of testing is done with everything connected and tracing the voltage,.. which is a bit more comprehensive because it doesn't just test the switch, it tests to make sure the power is getting to and then through the switch...)

 
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I have put the project on a brief hold while I gather more information on the issue. Found that the old MAF was water damaged. Replaced it with a good unit.

Oh...and for the unintended acceleration...found that the throttle body stays partially opened after accelerator is pressed. Thankfully the old one is in great shape.

Going by the junkyard tomorrow to get a better starter harness that has good grounds and both battery terminals.

Gut is telling me the starter may be bad. I read in other forums that a clicking sound when turning the key-which the car is showing-means power is getting from the ignition switch to the starter.


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...Gut is telling me the starter may be bad...

But if the starter cranks when jumpered from the fusebox it should be good ???



Unless it gets better B+ 12V from the fuse box instead of from ignition>TR switch>starter motor ?!

Check the connector going into the starter motor (connector #2) for +12V with the key turned to start...

 
When a starter motor gets old and starts to crap out, the solenoid starts to stick and not engage the motor when 12V is supplied to connector #2...

If you apply +12V and the starter kicks in, it should be good...
 
Hey @pcb. Back with a status update. Managed to get a pristine starter harness for the P5 at the wrecker's today for a steal. $10 for the whole thing.

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The pieces of the puzzle are beginning to come together. Found this loose today.

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The car was in 2nd gear the whole time!!!! Agh...so much for hiring a "competent" mechanic. After taking the intake manifold off today I feel more confident about working on the car.

The only hard part in the job was that stupid bracket. It was a pain to get off with just a ratchet.

The reason I found out about the shifter was I put in reverse and then park today. When I took the ebrake off the car was still rolling down.

The no crank no start is starting to make better sense now...what is your opinion?




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The pieces of the puzzle are beginning to come together. Found this loose today.

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The car was in 2nd gear the whole time!!!!

The reason I found out about the shifter was I put in reverse and then park today. When I took the ebrake off the car was still rolling down.

The no crank no start is starting to make better sense now...what is your opinion?

I don't know what that is a picture of but if your shift mechanism wasn't hooked up then it's very possible that your TR switch was never in P or N to allow for a start.

The harness may not be the problem... You may just need to properly be in P or N....
 
That is the shifter linkage that attaches to the shifter. The other end by the TR switch was not tampered with.

Going to swap starter harness Saturday morning and see how it goes...


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If your shifter linkage was not hooked up and the car was always in 2nd gear then the TR switch would also always be in 2nd.

Your harness may be fine...

If you can now put your car in P or N then it may start for you.. You could just try it to see before replacing the harness.
 
Long needed update @pcb. Work has picked up recently and has put the task on hold. Got the car together today (albeit I may need to check good grounds).

Took the opportunity to clean the intake manifold, put new gaskets, and clean injector o-rings.

Starter and ignition switch are working. Car now has a crank no start.
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Found power window fuse to be in incorrect location. Seemed odd that power windows were not working.

Going to check timing belt job soon. Engine may be off time per uncle's hypothesis.


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Starter and ignition switch are working. Car now has a crank no start....

You did get the car running before.. It's probably something you worked on since then.

You might be out of gas... Your fuel light is on.
 
After getting some gas and filling with coolant the car is running...somewhat. The radiator fan isn't kicking on. Just filled with coolant. Any tips @pcb??

I have the AC/PS belt disconnected since the compressor does not have refrigerant. Don't want to risk burning it up.

I have a video with an update.


https://youtu.be/U7ctYg8pVPY



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The rad fan doesn't come on until the coolant reaches a certain temperature... You may not have gotten it hot enough ??
Perhaps the ECU shut things down due to the lack of an AC pump ??

If your temp gauge rises above the halfway mark, the fan should be on.

Maybe get this kit and do a recharge... $30-$60 US.
It's made from propane so your not gonna wreck the ozone layer with CFC's...

It sounds like you're on the right track and close to mobile but your engine sounds kinda "clattery/rough/clangy"
Coulda just been the video sound ???
 
I hear the sound coming from the timing belt. Do you think it could be a pulley? The guy who did the job did not change the tensioner pulley and spring so I will have to look into that. When it cranks it doesn't sound like the 03 we have.


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