Change automatic transmission fluid?

You should be skeptical when your dealer told you you need a transmission fluid "flush". SkyActiv-Drive AT is designed a little differently from the most other automatic transmissions and it circulates engine coolant "into" the transmission for cooling. This means there's no way to use any ATF flush machine to hook up ATF lines and do the flush. Drain-and-fill is the only way to change our ATF and is the only method mentioned in the factory service manual.

Thank you yrwei52. I will print this out and bring it with me to the dealership and ask them to clarify.

Bon Scott
 
Just out of curiosity (I don't have the manual in front of me)...how often should a CX5 have the transmission fluid drained and refilled?? Mine is at 50,000 kms right now, and it was recommended to me at my next oil change (between 55-60,000 kms). I was a bit confused when earlier in this thread it was said to never change the ATF (or perhaps I read that incorrectly).

Bon Scott
 
Just out of curiosity (I don't have the manual in front of me)...how often should a CX5 have the transmission fluid drained and refilled?? Mine is at 50,000 kms right now, and it was recommended to me at my next oil change (between 55-60,000 kms). I was a bit confused when earlier in this thread it was said to never change the ATF (or perhaps I read that incorrectly).

Bon Scott
Mazda has no recommended service interval of the 6AT, calling it a "lifetime fill".
 
Mazda has no recommended service interval of the 6AT, calling it a "lifetime fill".

So, CX5 owners should never change their transmission fluid (be it a flush or a drain and fill)?? You can see where I'm confused here, considering it was recommended to me by the dealership after yesterday's oil change. I assume they checked the color of the fluid and recommended a change. Should I ignore this recommendation and never have it changed??

Bon Scott
 
So, CX5 owners should never change their transmission fluid (be it a flush or a drain and fill)?? You can see where I'm confused here, considering it was recommended to me by the dealership after yesterday's oil change. I assume they checked the color of the fluid and recommended a change. Should I ignore this recommendation and never have it changed??

Bon Scott
Read eyedocorlando's post earlier and I believe he said the best. I personally believe there's no such thing as "life-time" fluid and I'd change it, drain-and-fill, at 40,000 ~ 50,000-mile interval. The funny thing is when VW specified no fluid change for maintenance due to the use of "life-time" ATF, but the shelf life stamped on the OEM VW "life-time" ATF bottle says only 2 years!
 
Thx guys!! Definitely going to get it done (drain and fill). Even if it's not called for, better to be safe than sorry.

Bon Scott
 
Well said! And I believe Unobtanium's bad experience on his ATF flush is because he's been waiting too long to do the ATF "flush". Many people have said if you waited too long to change the ATF, especially doing the flush, it'd dislodge all the existing tiny debris which may actually cause transmission problems. And it'd be better off not to change the ATF if it haven't been changed for a long time.

This is very possible, but Jeep recommends every 60K miles and I did it at 68K miles. hardly a huge world of difference, and it never did QUITE shift the same, afterwards.
 
So, CX5 owners should never change their transmission fluid (be it a flush or a drain and fill)?? You can see where I'm confused here, considering it was recommended to me by the dealership after yesterday's oil change. I assume they checked the color of the fluid and recommended a change. Should I ignore this recommendation and never have it changed??

Bon Scott

A) there is no way for them to check this.
B) Some dealerships just want to take as much money from you as they can.
C) I live in one of the more affluent areas in this country (home to the #1 global fortune 500 company), and was told that they had never changed the fluid in a CX-5. My dealership don't play that.
 
I plan on keeping my 2014 touring for ~ 125,000 miles so I will change out the ATF at ~ 75,000. If I was going to sell/trade before 100,000, then no change. Ed
 
Not sure why you would get chastized. I'd do the drain/fill 3x process as well. Much more effective than a 1x process as there's still old oil mainly in the torque converter.
Somebody in the past mentioned that CX-5 (Actually all SkyActive Mazdas) retain only 5% of ATF in TC. If that's the case, it is not worth extra effort.
It can't be true that the torque converter of SkyActiv-Drive 6-speed automatic transmission contains only 5% of the total ATF. According to owner's manual, total capacity of automatic transaxle fluid is 8.2 US quarts. So drain-and-fill method can only replace a little less than half of the ATF. Doing drain-and-fill 3 times does have its merit.

I wish Mazda can specify ATF refill capacity for the drain out transmission like Honda does.
 
They do in the service manual. While I can pull that if needed, mine took exactly 3.4 quarts after a good long drain on ramps. If you replace it, buy 5 quarts to have extra?
 
I plan on keeping my 2014 touring for ~ 125,000 miles so I will change out the ATF at ~ 75,000. If I was going to sell/trade before 100,000, then no change. Ed

I wouldn't mess with it. If a transmission can't make it 125K miles on its own, well, the early 90's called...they want their 4-speed electric with OD back.
 
Well said! And I believe Unobtanium's bad experience on his ATF flush is because he's been waiting too long to do the ATF "flush". Many people have said if you waited too long to change the ATF, especially doing the flush, it'd dislodge all the existing tiny debris which may actually cause transmission problems. And it'd be better off not to change the ATF if it haven't been changed for a long time.

I'm on the "many people" boat lol. Waiting too long to change tranny fluid changes the dynamics within the tranny. Theres fluid and theres tranny metal parts right? After a certain amount of time (dependent on the oil's specs and how hard you push it) the tranny fluid's lubricant properties diminish and the tranny part's will release more metal shavings into the fluid. Lets step back and realize how many fluids today use various metals for their lubricants. hmm Moly, remember? Moly is a metal used as a slick silky smooth lubricant. We love us some Moly! Okay back to the high mileage tranny with original tranny fluid scenario. The metal shavings in the fluid become really really valuable to the tranny in order to operate. Flush out the old oil (and important metal shavings) and replace with fresh new oil. Tranny no likey:( You might as well not change it at this point.

Mazda has no recommended service interval of the 6AT, calling it a "lifetime fill".

paris, the crux of this statement revolves around the term "lifetime fill". That "lifetime fill" time frame is meaningless due to Mazda's 5-year power train warranty obligation. That said they could rename it 20-year fill, 200-year fill, or eternity fill because after 5 years it doesn't matter. Now if us as owners expect to keep cars longer than 5 years then changing fluids is cheap insurance. Mazda is betting their tranny and fluid will last 5 years or 60k miles without changing it. To their credit it does but after 60k miles or 5 years later the responsibility is switched to the owner. After a recall, VW was forced a mandatory transmission fluid change clause in their power train warranty upon a certain time frame for their DSGs. This was because owners kept getting broken DSG trannies. So for DSG owner no tranny fluid change = warranty is void.

It can't be true that the torque converter of SkyActiv-Drive 6-speed automatic transmission contains only 5% of the total ATF. According to owner's manual, total capacity of automatic transaxle fluid is 8.2 US quarts. So drain-and-fill method can only replace a little less than half of the ATF. Doing drain-and-fill 3 times does have its merit.

I wish Mazda can specify ATF refill capacity for the drain out transmission like Honda does.

Oh man is there a link or source for the TQ converter only having 5%? If so then a 2x or even 1x drain/fill process is good enough. I'd likely just do 2x if this is true. Save money and time!!!
 
I haven't changed mine yet but plan to use one of these types of funnels.

http://www.galeton.com/plastic-funn...446-product/?gclid=COLL-Yei_swCFU1rfgodTeQEoA


11446_W_L.jpg

You can use a funnel with pipe or a pump like this.......

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Multi-...ealey-TP6804?gclid=CJzyl4KL_8wCFQhuGwodO6gD1g

If you take the air filter box off there is much more room. I think I have a photo of a CX3 arrangement which is nearly the same. I will have a look.

Hey did you guys eventually use the "pump" method for changing atf? I've done numerous oil changes with a manual oil extractor on my BMW with consistent results. Wish I still had it. How many quarts could you guys manage to extract at one time? I figure if its like say 3-4 quarts per attempt then I could probably end up extracting "clearer" oil within 3-4 attempts without the need to drop the pan for the life of owning the car. Just have to ensure the oil level is in spec.

Doing this method periodically should allow the tranny to perform smoother than a non-atf changed tranny simply due to less friction. Either way the tranny should reach 150k-200k miles. Folks here should really look into the skyactiv Mazda3 forums about atf changes. The old oil being black compared to clear doesn't really tell much. On the other hand physically rubbing the old oil in fingers compared to new oil they reported felt rougher.
 
Hey did you guys eventually use the "pump" method for changing atf?
Any reason you'd like to extract ATF out instead of draining it? I did this way for oil change once on my VW Passat and never again. Not only it was messier due to the cheap tool used, but I couldn't extract full amount of oil out. I also feel you may left some possible fine debris in the pan as you suction tube may not be seated at the lowest point of the pan. Drain hole normally is located at lowest point of the oil pan and most likely the fine debris would be drain out with used fluid. ~3 quarts is the amount of used AFT been drained out by most people.

I wish changing ATF on CX-5 can be as easy as on my CR-V, where a funnel with pipe was used and nothing is on the way for refill.
 
Any reason you'd like to extract ATF out instead of draining it? I did this way for oil change once on my VW Passat and never again. Not only it was messier due to the cheap tool used, but I couldn't extract full amount of oil out. I also feel you may left some possible fine debris in the pan as you suction tube may not be seated at the lowest point of the pan. Drain hole normally is located at lowest point of the oil pan and most likely the fine debris would be drain out with used fluid. ~3 quarts is the amount of used AFT been drained out by most people.

I wish changing ATF on CX-5 can be as easy as on my CR-V, where a funnel with pipe was used and nothing is on the way for refill.

Hmm drain hole...your right. Ultimately I want to avoid needing dropping the pan but want to drain/fill every 40k miles or so. Already did drain/fill at dealership at 37k. I'm out of drive train warranty period now at 62k+ miles so I'm doing all fluid changes myself (brake, steering, engine, tranny, ect..). I think your're right the drain hole is prolly the better option.

That said is the tranny drain hole situated similar to the engine oil drain pan (rear corner)? I'm using a ramp and it works great for engine oil changes. Or should the car be raised flat?
 
Hmm drain hole...your right. Ultimately I want to avoid needing dropping the pan but want to drain/fill every 40k miles or so. Already did drain/fill at dealership at 37k. I'm out of drive train warranty period now at 62k+ miles so I'm doing all fluid changes myself (brake, steering, engine, tranny, ect..). I think your're right the drain hole is prolly the better option.

That said is the tranny drain hole situated similar to the engine oil drain pan (rear corner)? I'm using a ramp and it works great for engine oil changes. Or should the car be raised flat?
Some of the previous posts may help us doing the ATF drain-and-fill:
A drain and fill of approx. 5.1 US qt, per service manual is pretty much the only service regarding the ATF.
So did you pour in 4 quarts of fresh Mazda Type FZ ATF for the drain-and-fill?
3 quarts and about ~24 oz, still have a little bit left on the 4th bottle.

runtohell121 : Just curious if you jacked up your CX-5 to change fluid or just changed on level ground.
Jacked up slightly on both side (making it level) to remove the panel and when draining.
I think I'd check the location of the AT drain hole, and may just raise the front a bit with the both front tires on 2-layer 2X10 wood used for my oil change. The location of the drain hole for engine oil is perfect to drain the used oil more completely when you raise the front end a bit.
 
Hi there. My CX5 2012 has 110000km and I bought it at 105000. I don't think transmission fluid has been ever changed on this car and I don't believe in lifetime fluid either. Should I just drain and refill like most here are writing, or remove the pan and replace the filter too?
 
Hi there. My CX5 2012 has 110000km and I bought it at 105000. I don't think transmission fluid has been ever changed on this car and I don't believe in lifetime fluid either. Should I just drain and refill like most here are writing, or remove the pan and replace the filter too?

If it was my car, I would drop the pan and change the whole works.
 
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