What have you done to your MSP today?

Moving was a nessessity kinda. I can work anywhere and make a good wage but the average house price in my home town is 1millions now.
I moved 2 hrs up the highway and i seriously spend half and make the same. I dont commute that distance but what used to be an 8 minute commute is now a half hour.
If im gonna spend an hour driving every day i want it to be a car that isnt rare lol. Ill still drive the msp to shops and round town ect.
Rent where i was would have cost over $2000 lol. I could own for that easily but getting approved and having $50000 cash has always been the hangup with such high cost of living. Nanaimo is much better. Maybe two years and ill finally own.
 
Got the same problem now a few weeks after installing new coils, wires and plugs.

Car just seems to lose power, check engine light flashes and it bucks a bit. That's exactly what it started doing prior to changing those parts. I had the OE coils and wires with 136K on them so I figured that would solve it and it did for a few weeks. I still cannot get my friends scanner to work with my car and its parked so I can't go to Discount. I just cleared the pcm and all was fine with no CEL until about a week ago. It flashed on drive back from testing but is now just steady on again.

I'm stumped! Wondering if its starving for fuel due to the fact that the OE fuel pump is still in there and its wearing worn and not pumping out enough fuel pressure?

Any other ideas or suggestions. Also what should the fuel pressure be?
 
BOOSTR said:
Got the same problem now a few weeks after installing new coils, wires and plugs.

Car just seems to lose power, check engine light flashes and it bucks a bit. That's exactly what it started doing prior to changing those parts. I had the OE coils and wires with 136K on them so I figured that would solve it and it did for a few weeks. I still cannot get my friends scanner to work with my car and its parked so I can't go to Discount. I just cleared the pcm and all was fine with no CEL until about a week ago. It flashed on drive back from testing but is now just steady on again.

I'm stumped! Wondering if its starving for fuel due to the fact that the OE fuel pump is still in there and its wearing worn and not pumping out enough fuel pressure?

Any other ideas or suggestions. Also what should the fuel pressure be?
Click to expand...

Sounds like spark blowout from improperly gapped plugs. Unless you regapped them, they were probably pre-gapped for an NA car at .042 or whatever it is and not .028-.032.

I say this because when I first got my car I experienced something similar, but I could only get 1,000 miles or so out of plugs. Went through three sets before I actually referenced information (from here) pertaining to plug gap. All AllData, Motors and Chilton showed was the .042" for the FI. Replace them and it'd be okay for a few weeks then start getting a P0300 again. Not saying that's what the problem is, but it's definitely worth a check unless you know for certain the gap was set to spec.
 
Not the plugs. Car was presenting the same driveabilty issues prior to removing and replacing anything.

Any other ideas?
 
Still haven't gotten a code reader in to show us codes? Mine did that before the engine took a s*** (not the reason it took a s***) and I remember it being a little better after replacing the fuel pressure regulator to get rid of a code. I also had two other codes for VICS and VTCS but I'm not 100% sure if replacing those solenoids fixes that because I haven't done it yet. Still waiting on my new engine to get here.

BTW a flashing CEL means one or more cylinders misfiring if you didn't already know. Bad for the catalytic converter.
 
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Just drove it for a couple of miles and it seemed fine with no driveability issues. Been catless since 26K. Something else is triggering the problem and not a misfire or multiple ones. In time I'll figure out what it is.
 
EGR getting stuck open, perhaps? You need to get the DTCs!
 
had a p0125 this morning with no heat. followed by the steam show. I think after 150km and 14 years the rad has finally let go. gonna try to get my hands on a p5 rad/fan combo from a friend and order a corksport to replace it. i guess all this longer commute business is starting to wear s*** out.
i guess its convenient that it blew up on a friday morning, but not so much if i cant get the parts lol.
 
drove it 21 miles round trip to discount. ran okay for the first 10 miles to the store. coming back had the flashing cel again after being steady on the way down.

p0300 & p0134. car ran to good on the way down and back to be a fuel pump issue. didn't even think about the primary o2 being an issue but that to is original.
 
Valk said:
had a p0125 this morning with no heat. followed by the steam show. I think after 150km and 14 years the rad has finally let go. gonna try to get my hands on a p5 rad/fan combo from a friend and order a corksport to replace it. i guess all this longer commute business is starting to wear s*** out.
i guess its convenient that it blew up on a friday morning, but not so much if i cant get the parts lol.
Click to expand...

my msp radiator took a poop while i was installing my ssafc at j_naoto's house. picked up a p5 radiator and he gave me his spare fans. it worked out real good for me lol. especially because i had to go on a road trip the following weekend. would've sucked being stranded
 
For $250 or whatever it is the Mishimoto is a good upgrade.

So after swapping the engine in #1574 back in the spring and having a constant P0401 for the EGR I finally figured out the problem. I put a vacuum T on the VICS solenoid line from the intake manifold for the EGR boost sensor. Apparently that line does not read normal engine vacuum for whatever reason. Moved it to the original port on the side of the IM where my SSFTC line is ran and the code went away and hasn't come back. The car passed inspection last week and now has a valid registration for the first time since March.

I swapped the WGA to turn the boost down when I fixed the exhaust leak and it was running 5psi. Installed my JoeP MBC and it was running 10psi perfectly without spiking or adjusting the MBC. Then it started boosting 14-15 under WOT so I tried to adjust the MBC but no matter where I set it the car overboosts. Runs basically exactly like it did with the old WGA. I can feather the throttle and keep it at a steady 10-11psi but would like it to stay at 10 under WOT. Maybe the ball inside the MBC is stuck. Need to get it to hold steady boost so I can sell it and not worry about the next owner blowing it up.
 
i just went with the p5 as the msp rad was definitely not something i could get easily. corksport has had their rad on sale for $199 for some time and i might pick it up. but i also want to stop driving the msp and find a decent p5 agian... i might actualyl contact the guy who baught mine and see if he wants to sell it back ha. id love to find a laser one with leather but those are damn rare app.
the good news is i met up with a local guy who has a pretty nicely moded es that will be getting an msp swap in it. he is going to sell me a full set of msp seats for $100 and a bunch of the interior peices. so i can restore my msp to like new condition for pretty cheap.
 
Got a JBR 88 duro mount for the MS3; P5 still sitting there looking sad.
 
Installed new Denso O2 and went for a test ride. At the 1.4 mile mark the Speedo/RPM/Odometer functions stopped working, a power change noise occurred, CEL came on and the engine shut off. It restarted right away and I drove home. WTF now. So I pulled the plugs and did a compression check. 187/185/180/170 which is not bad for an engine with 136800 miles. The plug gap was still perfect but the plugs looked sooty. I have some new ones to put in later on today.

The gauge thing first started happening 2 years ago when I got stuck up north for an extremely cold period. I thought it was just the cold weather but it has occurred randomly when its not cold. Still not sure what that could be and evidently no one else has experienced that.

I'll put the new plugsin and go from there. Had all these years of trouble free driving but with age comes problems!
 
BOOSTR said:
Installed new Denso O2 and went for a test ride. At the 1.4 mile mark the Speedo/RPM/Odometer functions stopped working, a power change noise occurred, CEL came on and the engine shut off. It restarted right away and I drove home. WTF now. So I pulled the plugs and did a compression check. 187/185/180/170 which is not bad for an engine with 136800 miles. The plug gap was still perfect but the plugs looked sooty. I have some new ones to put in later on today.

The gauge thing first started happening 2 years ago when I got stuck up north for an extremely cold period. I thought it was just the cold weather but it has occurred randomly when its not cold. Still not sure what that could be and evidently no one else has experienced that.

I'll put the new plugsin and go from there. Had all these years of trouble free driving but with age comes problems!
Click to expand...
You have an electrical short somewhere.
I had something similar happen. My ecu fuel and water died after the test one of my new engine. The wires from my o2 sensor melted and shorted out. Took two days to find the problem.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
Im gonna be looking for a tuning solution soon as the p5 i was gonna try to get was sold. Car has started to shudder inexplicably at idle after a cruise like its been missing spark or something. Will do it for a little bit then go back to normal.
Wonder if i should pickup a unichip q and p5 ecu?

Ill also have to replace or repair my sticking front caliper, get the car up and grond it down for some rust protection. Thinking ill brush on an epoxy sealer after the car is clean then put some bed liner on. Gonna get those good condition seats too to recover my interior. Milage is gonna pile on my map but guess it doesnt matter if i start taking care of it better. Just lotsof stuff to get to all at once =\ also if anyone has tuning stuff or low milage suspension to sell id be interested.
 
Put the new plugs in and went for a test. Didn't even make it 1/10 of a mile before it started its s*** again. No cel just the sound and feel of power loss after intially idling well at startup. Now the vac is down to -16 from its normal reading. So once again it will stay parked until I have the time to figure it out.
 
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