Annoying "pinging" noise while accelerating... YES IVE SEARCHED!!!

Pinging in these engines is another example of Mazda's bad engine management.

I had pinging in my engine for random periods of time between 150k-200k miles. Anything but the lightest of throttle would cause pinging. It would last for a couple thousand miles, and then go away.

I never had a 100% conclusive reason for the pinging, but some things I did:

1. Check your intake tube for cracks. They aren't always easy to see and usually occur in the "accordion" area. When you accelerate, the engine moves and stretches the intake tube causing the cracks to open.

2. Do you have any exhaust leaks before the upstream O2?

3. Disconnect the battery to reset the computer. In my case, this is what would bring the issue back. In your case it may solve it. Remember that thing I said about bad Mazda engine management?

4. Seafoam. This stuff is largely over rated placebo effect snake oil so I don't recommend it often, but it is genuinely made of cleaning agents/detergents. Put it on old engine parts and it'll clean them; just like a million other products. But it did ONE TIME temporarily relieve one of the many pinging episodes I've had on my car. Pour a little in each cylinder through the spark plugs holes and let it sit for an hour. With the plugs still out, turn the engine over for 2 seconds to blow out some of the seafoam (You don't want to hydrolock your engine). Then reinstall the plugs and start the engine.

Run the rest of the Seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line (shut engine off and let it sit for the recommended time as soon as it is sucked up which happens very fast).

Pouring it in your gas tank doesn't do squat in my opinion, and I would never put anything but lubricant in my crank case.

No matter what you do, you can expect the computer to take 500-1000 miles to "relearn" the changes. That's why it can be really difficult to conclusively diagnose the pinging and idle issues with this engine.
 
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So over it... just ordered some remanned fuel injectors (flow tested, volt tested bla bla bla) and a new knock sensor... lets see where this goes.



*sigh*
 
Make sure your EGR is working too. It lowers combustion temps and reduces preignition.

If your fuel injectors were faulty the fuel trims would be out of whack, setting a P0171 or P0172. Unless for some reason the 02 is not reporting correctly.
 
well, like i said... have new injectors on the way and a new knock sensor on my desk. gonna tackle replacing the 02 sensors next!

EGR is working... i accidentally left it unplugged a few months back and after about 25 miles the CEL came on for it. plugged the EGR back in, CEL immediately went away so im guessing its working ;)
 
Any updates on this? Especially on how you tackled the knock sensor replacement.
 
seems replacing the injectors and knock sensor helped! i havent noticed the "pinging" noise much recently... but it might have to do with the huge drop in ambient air temperature out side as well. drove out to Cali for a job on Sunday and didnt find the car pinging at all, but i also kinda forgot to listen for it lol
 
nice man. did you have to replace the knock sensor from underneath the car?
 
nice man. did you have to replace the knock sensor from underneath the car?

Yea... It's just above the oil filter...
Here's a picture of mine... All drippy and gooey..

I removed the oil filter for the pic.

 
nope. i ain't touching that manifold just to replace that sensor lol. i'll report back after i install mine. just received my knock sensor today
 
my water pump recently failed and i ended up doing a timing belt and pump job. since then, the 'pinging' noise is gone. it did appear the car was a tooth off when i took everything apart and could've been the cause of my problem.
 
weeeeeeellllllllll, since it got cold... ive noticed an annoying HISS coming from my brake booster cabin side. pretty sure its sucking in a load of unmetered air! im guessing this is probably contributing to the problem!
 
ive since replaced the brake booster... didnt change anything.

also, ive since redone my ignition setup with OE 1.8 liter coilpacks (ordered from Mazda) and NGK 1.8 liter wires. No change at all

im starting to think its the VICS flappers (not VTCS). next step is to remove the upper part of the manifold and make sure the flappers havent come loose or fallen out!!! the noise is most prominent on the drivers side of the engine bay, so im guessing the noise is being projected thru my AEM metal intake pipe when the throttle is open.
 
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ive since replaced the brake booster... didnt change anything.

also, ive since redone my ignition setup with OE 1.8 liter coilpacks (ordered from Mazda) and NGK 1.8 liter wires. No change at all

im starting to think its the VICS flappers (not VTCS). next step is to remove the upper part of the manifold and make sure the flappers havent come loose or fallen out!!! the noise is most prominent on the drivers side of the engine bay, so im guessing the noise is being projected thru my AEM metal intake pipe when the throttle is open.

Did you ever replace the knock sensor?

What about the fuel trims? Can you view them with your scan tool? If the numbers are high and positive (+10 or more) you have a vacuum leak.
 
Replaced the knock sensor ages ago.

Ive gone over the motor with a can of B12 carb cleaner near every vacuum port and spray them down. No changes in RPMs. I may go back thru my entire motor and replace all of the vacuum lines... Wouldnt hurt given they're 14-15 years old.
 
Did you ever replace the knock sensor?

What about the fuel trims? Can you view them with your scan tool? If the numbers are high and positive (+10 or more) you have a vacuum leak.

Replaced the knock sensor ages ago.

Ive gone over the motor with a can of B12 carb cleaner near every vacuum port and spray them down. No changes in RPMs. I may go back thru my entire motor and replace all of the vacuum lines... Wouldnt hurt given they're 14-15 years old.

Find out if you even have one before you go lighting the fuse on the parts cannon again...
 
apologies for bumping an old thread, from and old a$$ member haha!

This pinging has plagued my car since day one. If the sun is out, even if only 65*, my car pings like mad. Lately its been close to 100* off and on for the past month and the pinging is absolutely horrid.
So, thought I'd try something completely different from everyone else.

It seems to only happen when the weather is hot outside. Rarely did this ever happen at night when it was cool.
Logically, one would think I need to get the "spark" to actually burn rather than "explode", which to my understanding, the pinging we're getting.
With that, I asked, how would I change this?
Seems fairly logical, but I never thought of it before. Why not run a cooler plug? I know (some) cars that are boosted, need to run a cooler plug to avoid detonation. So I did some research and found if runner a cooler plug in an NA engine like the P5, the worst thing that will happen is fouled plugs. No terminal damage.
I was using NGK ZFR5F-11 long reach plugs for ages at each tune up. even tried NGK ZFR6F-11
Now I purchased NGK BKR7E-11 and what a difference! Drove around in 90* heat and NOT ONE little ping at all! (eek2)
Completely different animal now. Incredible! After all these years, I think I found out what my car likes. So happy, I cant tell you.
I tried the long reach ZFR7F-11 long reach plugs, and the engine felt stifled. Like it was choking a bit, and it did still ping, but not as much.
So I reinstalled the NGK BKR7E-11 and its night and day for me. Really nice!

Im posting this to see if it will help others as well.
You will see 2 different part numbers for these plugs: NGK BKR7E-11 and NGK BKR7E. The only difference is, the -11 is gapped at .44 and the NGK BKR7E is gapped at .32.
Im hoping this will help out those with this issue.

I'd say give this a try as its cheap, and really cant hurt the motor from what I've read.

Am I crazy? haha
 
i think my issue may have been involving the gasket around the primary cat. i have since changed the factory header unit to an OBX header. when i dismantled the factory header, the metal gasket that seals the upper runners to the primary cat was broken in 3 places. it appeared to be leaking around one of the breaks in the gasket as well. the noise was never 100% predictable either and would go away at times if i let off the gas and then punched it again... it may have been also due to a worn out secondary O2 sensor. when taking the downstream O2 out of the car, i ruined the wiring. the car threw a CEL when i reinstalled it on the OBX header with a defouler adapter. i went and purchased a new BOSCH downstream O2 and plugged it, reset the battery and i have yet to see that ugly yellow light on the CEL light up... after doing this, i noticed the car drove MUCH better than it ever had (not taking off like a rocket or anything, but just much smoother thru the power band regardless of the header being present). the downstream O2 was CAKED in white from the cat filtering out burnt oil fumes due to bad valve stem seals in my motor (im replacing the head in the coming months to remedy this along with installing my FSZE + Corksport cams, much easier to do cams with the head on a table).

so im going to say this, try replacing BOTH O2 sensors in your motor... especially if you have oil consumption issues. these may be the answer to the problem! also, try replacing the metal gasket between the primary cat and upper part of the header.
 
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