Spare Key & Fob Programming for Mazda5

Hi,

I have a UK spec Mazda 5 (2006).

I still have the two original keyless remotes and they both work. The problem is that over the years the small plastic tabs that hold the buttons in place have fatigued and broken. Now the buttons fall out unless held down by tape.

I bought a third remote from eBay, hoping to swap the buttons over but although identical on the outside the interior is a modified design meaning that I couldn't reuse the buttons or swap the electronics over.

So I decided to try and program the new remote.

I read the PDF at the start of this thread and established that my car uses the Type B procedure.

I follow the procedure and the car goes into programming mode, confirmed by the door locking then unlocking.

But after that the procedure does not respond to any of the remotes. I have tried the original key first, and the new key first but neither causes the ECU to responds with a 'lock then unlock'.

Afterwards the two originals work fine but the new one doesn't.

Any ideas - inititially I thought it was a problem with the new key but after trying an original key first and getting no response, I'm not convinced.

Cheers,

Nigel
 
Bought a chipped key from mykeyless-1 on Ebay and got it cut by the local locksmith. It will start the car (after programming) but won't unlock the doors. Obviously didn't quite get the cut right. No biggie, only bought a 4th just to have in case we lost one.
 
Do you need to have the key fob re-programmed if you change the battery on an existing, functioning key fob?
I have a 2008 Mazda 5
 
I have just purchased a 2012 Mazda5 used and it only came with a single switchblade style key. I have called some locksmiths in the area and they are all telling me the dealer needs to do the programming. I got a quote from the dealer for nearly $500 for a new switchblade key (this is completely unacceptable)!! (They said the key and the fob both need to be programmed and they charge $125 for each programming plus the device costs.) From what I can interpret on this thread, there are other possibilities, cheaper possibilities out there. However, it is unclear in the thread as to what model and year people are referring to at times. Does anyone have suggestions for me on this 2012 model? Much appreciated.

Edited: Just got off the phone with a auto locksmith and he says he has the ability to program the 2006-2010 Mazda5 keys, but his information does not say anything about the 2012. Anyone out there able to shed some light on this. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Spare Key

chemvw,
Just got my new 2013 Mazda5, went to Ace Hardware and they made me a key for $65.00, now it does not have the Fob but it cost less they the Dealer price

KB9OMH
 
KB9OMH, Did Ace program the key for you too for that price? Or is this just a key for you to open the doors with. My understanding is that you need two working keys to program a 3rd key. The guy I bought mine from lost one of the keys, so I only have one key, and I am pretty sure I can't do the self programming trick with only one key (on a new spare key or key fob). I think your point is a correct one, the key blanks on these Mazdas are all very similar. I just want to make sure the programming on our newer Mazda5s is the same as that for the 2006-2010 models. My guess is that it is. Thanks for your response.
 
I am in a similar boat. Just purchased a used 2012 M5 with only 1 remote key. I found a seller on ebay with part Bgbx1t478ske125-01 that claims this fob will work ($37 shipped) . If I read the threads correctly, I will still have to take it to a locksmith/dealer with the software to flash my car and reprogram both keys? If I buy just a transponder blank, I can have that cloned to my original, but then can't make a third key?

Thanks for the clarification.
 
I saw that part on ebay too and was thinking I would pick one up. Unfortunately no one of expertise is chiming in to give us any official indication on this thread yet. For the cost of the ebay part it might be worth it just to try and take it to a locksmith (or dealer if you must).
 
I made a 3rd key for my 2007 mazda 5...

I bought a transmitter fob off ebay (~$30). I programmed it using instructions in the PDF file. You can program up to 3 fobs for your car.
-Note that although the PDF specifies it is only for 2006 vehicles below a certain VIN, it worked fine on my 2007.

I bought the RFID key blank from the dealer (~$10?) and had it cut at the local locksmith ($5). You or locksmith will need to tap in the small roll pin to attach key to the fob if it's not already attached. I then programmed the key using instructions in the GIF file. You can program up to 8 blanks this way.

Good luck!
 
Hey. I just used this on my 2008 Mazda 5 with a key fob I got off eBay and it worked like a charm!
Thanks for posting this. My key that would have cost me $250 only cost me $75! B-E-A-utiful!
 
KB9OMH, Did Ace program the key for you too for that price? Or is this just a key for you to open the doors with. My understanding is that you need two working keys to program a 3rd key. The guy I bought mine from lost one of the keys, so I only have one key, and I am pretty sure I can't do the self programming trick with only one key (on a new spare key or key fob).

I too only got 1 key fob with my 2012 Mazda5.
$365 dealer price for new fob and programming
$165 dealer price for new chip key (non remote) and programming
$75 Ace Hardware for new chip key (non remote) and programming

Our Ace Hardware only recently got new newer keys. But they were able to cut the new key and program it to match the only remote/key I had.

Might go back to Ace to buy a second key. In the end we only really need one remote. But we need actual functioning keys .
 
It is my understanding that some locksmiths clone the key itself, but they are not actually programming the car to the key.
This won't allow you to program a third key if you started with one, and got a cloned second key, and want to actually program the car for more. I'm not certain on this, but this is what I was told by a local ace hardware.
 
It is my understanding that some locksmiths clone the key itself, but they are not actually programming the car to the key.
This won't allow you to program a third key if you started with one, and got a cloned second key, and want to actually program the car for more. I'm not certain on this, but this is what I was told by a local ace hardware.

You are correct - Ace did not program the key with the car. They simply cloned the chip from the fob to the new cut key.

For my purposes, all that matters is that the car thinks the key is valid - whether it was cloned as a standalone or actively programmed in conjunction with the car.

Along that line of thinking, I don't see what it would matter to the car if I had 10 keys cloned ($700 worth of Ace keys - or $1650 worth of dealer keys!!) - unless the car can tell that I have 10 keys and rejects them.

The trouble starts up again if I introduce a new key fob remote into the picture. For now just keys are okay with me.
 
I was thinking more along the line of key fobs. I would want to be able to program my own in the future if I got brand new keys.
I made it a rule with my first protege to get a third set of keys and a third fob as spares/backup. Did it first thing on the 5.
I've done the programming for quite few friends now as well.
 
Purchased a $13 key off ebay, style 4D-63 that the seller insisted was compatible with my Mazda5 2012. Note this blank included the chip but was not the fob style. The locksmith was able to cut it and program it no problem and he only charged my $40. This is way cheaper than what the dealer was quoting me. I'm pretty sure he programmed the key and did not clone it. Took us a while to find the OBDII scanner port hidden in that little cubby. In case anyone is curious, he had no problems even though his paperwork and scanner said it would work for the Mazda5 make 2006-2010. Next I think I will try to get a cheap fob with key blank and now that I have two keys try to programming my own. If that doesn't work, $40 is not too bad from this locksmith. (If you need a locksmith in Springfield, MO, try Advanced Key on Grant Ave.)
 
So I also got a basic key (no remote) off of ebay. Got it cut at a locksmith (by copying one of my existing keys), tried it out... it couldn't unlock the door, but could lock it with some effort. Surprisingly, it worked in the ignition (after successfully programming it using my 2 other keys). So I took it back to the locksmith, and this time he re-cut it using the 5 digit code that came with the car. It looks a lot different now... more jagged than smooth. Tried it again in the door, and was able to unlock the door, but the horn goes off and on intermittently!

This is a 2010 Mazda 5. I'm assuming I'm setting off the theft-deterrent system. The manual says:

System triggering conditions
The horn sounds intermittently and the hazard warning lights flash for about 30 seconds when the system is triggered by any one of the following:
l Forcing open a door, the hood or the liftgate.
l Unlocking a door with the door lock switch.
l Unlocking a door with the inside doorlock knob (other than front passenger side).
l Opening a door by operating an inside door-lock knob.
l Opening the hood by operating the hood release handle.

As far as I know, I'm not doing any of the above. I'm simply turning the key in the lock. Either the key fits and turns properly to open the lock (which it does now), or it doesn't. Does anyone know if using a key that is not cut exactly right will trigger the alarm? Or could it be possible that the key's chip has to be programmed into the door, just like it was programmed into the ignition?
 
Does anyone know if using a key that is not cut exactly right will trigger the alarm? Or could it be possible that the key's chip has to be programmed into the door, just like it was programmed into the ignition?

Are you sure that only the new key sets off the alarm when used in the door? Try the old keys? If all the keys do this I am guessing the door lock tumbler microswitch is failing to let the central locking computer know you were using a key in the door (thinks door was forced open due to no change in lock tumbler position). I doubt this is only a problem with the programming on the one key because there is no mechanism to read the chip in the door. Either it will unlock the door or it will not as you say. Or maybe there was something knew in 2010? Hopefully someone has some info?
 
Strange... I tried my other keys, and it appears that the alarm will sound sometimes with all of them when physically unlocking the door. Even the new one can successfully open the door without setting off the alarm. Note that I'm not opening the door, just unlocking it by turning the key. So it seems like there's a problem with the theft deterrent system, and only the dealer can fix it?
 
Back