Front strut tower brace

vaMP5er

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'02 Black Mica MP5
My p5 is lowered with MSP springs and Tokico Hp struts, and now it doesn't really like to go straight at medium to high speeds. I've decided to replce the stock front strut tower brace but don't know which to get. I like the one in Natey's how-to that also mounts to the chassis, but I'd rather not have to go through all of that for the install, especially messing with that air bag sensor. So which one is a good idea for an automatic p5 with cruise?
 
vaMP5er said:
My p5 is lowered with MSP springs and Tokico Hp struts, and now it doesn't really like to go straight at medium to high speeds. I've decided to replce the stock front strut tower brace but don't know which to get. I like the one in Natey's how-to that also mounts to the chassis, but I'd rather not have to go through all of that for the install, especially messing with that air bag sensor. So which one is a good idea for an automatic p5 with cruise?

i've notice this too on the highway. if i got over 70mph the car starts to shake more and seems as if it wants to go to the left or right. i haven't had an alignment since i got the springs and struts installed which is about 2 1/2 to 3 months months ago. i have about 3800 miles on them, and im waiting until 5000 to get an alignment, but i think i might go get an alignment when i get the time too though.
 
protege02 said:
i've notice this too on the highway. if i got over 70mph the car starts to shake more and seems as if it wants to go to the left or right. i haven't had an alignment since i got the springs and struts installed which is about 2 1/2 to 3 months months ago. i have about 3800 miles on them, and im waiting until 5000 to get an alignment, but i think i might go get an alignment when i get the time too though.

you do realize the alignment won't go down in price and you're just screwing up your tires, right? (poke)
 
toucci said:
you do realize the alignment won't go down in price and you're just screwing up your tires, right? (poke)

lmao, yeah i know, i dont have to pay for alignment. i think i'll go in and have it done on tuesday. thanks though.
 
I had my car aligned IMMEDIATELY after the install, so I only put 12 miles on the car with in unaligned.

Any STB suggestions?
 
vaMP5er said:
I had my car aligned IMMEDIATELY after the install, so I only put 12 miles on the car with in unaligned.

Any STB suggestions?
Actually, you should wait awhile after the install before aligning. The springs need to settle. I drove for 4-6 weeks or so before aligning and haven't had any straight-line tracking problems. Also check your tires for wear (esp. the outer edge) and put the 2 best ones on front.

When you installed the struts, did you notice where the alignment dot was on the top? Rotating the top spring mount can slightly change camber and caster, and caster is helpful for straight line tracking. I forgot where my dots are but my strut tops are closer to the rear and inside of the hole, which should be maximized camber and caster.

You can get a new FSTB but I don't think any FSTB (except maybe the CP Racing one Natey has or another which attaches to the firewall) will help with your tracking so you may want to try to fix that first. After all, lowered cars with FSTB track straight (as mine did before I added the P5 FSTB).
 
Alignment and the dots on the top of the shock tower have to be in the correct location...


1. Inside the top of the front coil there is a plastic dust boot. NO NOT INSTALL it when you put your suspension together. This boot rubs against the coil and makes a clicking sound. It will eventually break and fall off. Then you have no problems with sound. Save yourself a month of agony.

2. The suspension has little vertical rods connected to the stabiliser bar. These pieces are not reuseable. If you are able to reuse them, they will make noise as well, they are made out of plastic and are to be replaced every time they are removed.

3. Remember the position of the white mark on the top of your upper mounts. They are a type of camber adjustment. When you replace the new coilover, this mark must be in the same place or your suspension will force the alignment out of whack.

4. Get an alignment as soon as you are happy with the ride height. No need in cleaning the road with a toe in or out problem.

All in all, it was totally worth spending the extra money on a real set of coilovers rather than just a set of springs. The springs look nice but that's it.
Good luck with your own install.
 
vaMP5er said:
I had my car aligned IMMEDIATELY after the install, so I only put 12 miles on the car with in unaligned.

Any STB suggestions?

i didn't go 1 mile without mine being aligned. im thinking i'll just have it aligned every 2500 miles to 3000 miles now because i dont have to pay for it. the highway thing isn't coo at all.
 
Brian MP5T said:
They should give some kind of readout/printout. Tell us how bad it was off.. (If any)
You may have to ask for the print out. My alignment guy can do it but doesn't unless I ask. Ask for before and after readings.
 
vaMP5er said:
I had my car aligned IMMEDIATELY after the install, so I only put 12 miles on the car with in unaligned.

Any STB suggestions?

GT Spec is the one yo want they make great products and you don't have to move any brackets or Cruise control parts.
prgsus001-instal.jpg
 
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