How-To : AWR Rear Mount Install

Fai said:
I brought the RR racing motor mount insert, since it is the insert only which steps should i skip?? i dun have to take the entire mount out right??

can i just take the center bolt out and put the insert in?

You're either going to have to "rock" the engine forward to get enough room to slip them in or remove the mount altogether...
 
"rock" haha
damn, i wanna see that :D

might as well take the front mount out and jack the motor up.....but i would just take the mount out.
it's not THAT hard.
 
What are the tools needed for the rear? The first post on here makes it sound like you need every single metric socket and extension ever made.

I would like to know also.

Right now I only have the following automotive tools:
3/8 drive ratchet, 12pt sockets 8-18mm
1/2 drive ratchet, 14, 17, 21mm 6pt.


For now, I only want to buy what I need to get the job done. What else do I need? Im assuming quite a bit.

Also, the pics posted and instructions were assuming the stock airbox assembly. Has anybody gotten away with just leaving that stuff as is with a CAI?
 
CAI has to come off.
so does the battery and the battery tray.

you will need 3-4 extentions (depending on size).
i would get an extra one just because it is easy to break an extention because of the way the bolts are set up.

USE LOTS OF PB BLASTER!!!
 
a CAI and FMIC piping going to the throttle body does not have to come off... I ONLY took out my battery and battery tray, and I installed the rear and front in at most 2 hours. I have a bunch of pictures also. I used 3 different length/depth sockets and an 18 or 24 inch extension.

Dr.Sound said:
CAI has to come off.
so does the battery and the battery tray.

you will need 3-4 extentions (depending on size).
i would get an extra one just because it is easy to break an extention because of the way the bolts are set up.

USE LOTS OF PB BLASTER!!!

your tools look OK, but like I said; I used 3 different depth sockets. you at least need a deep and shallow 10mm and I THINK 17mm (whatever the three nuts are on the actual motor mount). Also you`re going to need a swivel in 1/2 and 3/8, that`s pretty important. also the LONG ASS extensions in 1/2 and 3/8 (you can put a few smaller ones together). AND wherever it said to break off some stud... don`t do it, it`s completely unecessary. that second nut on the bracket for the wiring harness is offset to the driver`s side. don`t try to go straight below the top one. the front is a 5 min job...

nealric said:
I would like to know also.

Right now I only have the following automotive tools:
3/8 drive ratchet, 12pt sockets 8-18mm
1/2 drive ratchet, 14, 17, 21mm 6pt.


For now, I only want to buy what I need to get the job done. What else do I need? Im assuming quite a bit.

Also, the pics posted and instructions were assuming the stock airbox assembly. Has anybody gotten away with just leaving that stuff as is with a CAI?
 
Last edited:
Well Im almost done with the hard part (just have to break that darn center bolt through the mount free).

Since others were asking here is an exact listing of the tools needed:

Jack
Jack Stands
18'' 1/2in drive breaker bar
1/2in drive socket
3/8in drive socket
17mm 1/2 drive socket
17mm 1/2 drive deep socket
14mm socket
10mm 3/8 drive socket
10mm combo wrench
2x 10'' 1/2 drive exensions
2x 5'' 1/2 drive extensions
wd-40
 
Im now at about hour 13 on the install. I just have to get the three long bolts on the side in and torqe everything down.

Holy Balls!
I dont think I would wish installing these on my worst enemy. I thought after I got the bracket off it would be smooth sailing. But nooooooo, the damn bolt through the mount wouldnt come off for anything. I spent 3 hours trying to get it to turn from the wheel well/extension method almost completely stripping out the bolt in the process. Instead, I would strongly suggest breaking the thing free from the top drivers side (side with no nut). It came off right away.

Then from reading the guide I was like great, its supposed to be easy now. Except it took over an hour of cursing to get the damn mount back in and situated. New expltives were invented that should never have been uttered from the lips of mankind.

To compound the problem, a blizzard is coming in and now Im going to have to wait untill the snow starts melting to do anything.

If you are at all questioning of your automotive abilities or equipment, please, for the love of all that is good and holy in the world do not attempt to install these.
 
yeah, it`s not that bad... I had all the tools I wanted and it took me about 1 1/2 or 2 hours to do both. Just make sure you have all the right tools! you need a 3/8 and 1/2 in. swivel too
 
maybe I suck at cars, but I went out and bought all the tools I needed- and none of the delays were due to not having the right tools- well, an impact wrench might lopped off about 3 hours- but thats still 10.

That 13 hour figure is not an exaggeration: 6 hours the last two two days and one hour the day before that.
 
took me 1 hr to do both...im a mechanic so i had a lift and all the tools. the job was a b**** tho!!!!!!! damn mount nuts were tight as s***!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (rant)
 
u suck, I didnt have a lift... MAN! someone needs to get me one I can use anytime for free!

cfpkiller said:
took me 1 hr to do both...im a mechanic so i had a lift and all the tools. the job was a b**** tho!!!!!!! damn mount nuts were tight as s***!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (rant)
 
protegeric said:
The official abbreviation for MAZDASPEED Protege is MPS not MSP.
Hi Eric,
Thank you for contacting Mazda. Your vehicle is listed correctly as 2003.5 MPS.
Again, thank you for contacting Mazda. Happy Holidays!
the official abbreviation for mazdaspeed protege is:
2003 - MS1P
2003.5 - MS2P

not MPS.
 
I`m not sure about that. My car is a 2003.5 and it`s listed as MS1. But, MAZDASPEED Protege is MPS regardless of 03 or 03.5. I`m gonna email mazda now and ask `em why my car is referred to as an MS1 and it`s a 2003.5 cause I thought what you said was correct. However, I don`t think it`s MS1P, I THINK (not sure) it`s just MS1. I`ll ask and post the reply. Since it`s saturday, I don`t know how long they will take to answer.

Dr.Sound said:
the official abbreviation for mazdaspeed protege is:
2003 - MS1P
2003.5 - MS2P

not MPS.
 
OK, I emailed Mazda right now about MPS (again), MS1/MS1P and MS2/MS2P. Also, 2003 = MS1, 2003.5 = MS2, etc. I`ll post the email as soon as I get it. BUT, that is their answer about MPS. The MAZDASPEED Protege is abbreviated as MPS (I`ve asked them more than 2 times). I THINK (not sure) MS1 and MS2 refers to the slight differences in trim. We will soon find out.

Dr.Sound said:
the official abbreviation for mazdaspeed protege is:
2003 - MS1P
2003.5 - MS2P

not MPS.
 
hehe, yeah, i want to know what they will say.
i remember speaking to a tech at mazda NA HQ about it and he told me the official name was MS1P/MS2P.
also, on all of my service reciepts it said MS1P for my 03 MSP and MS2P for my 03.5.
 
I asked them what`s the difference between MS1 and MS2, and is the P necessary? Also, 2003 = MS1, 2003.5 = MS2? The answer confused me a little bit about the MS1/MS2. MS1 and MS2 does refer to trim as I thought. I am #2479 of 2750 BTW. I also asked AGAIN about MPS. I think they`re tired of hearing from me, but I gave them $21,000 so I don`t feel too bad...

Hello Eric,

Thanks for contacting Mazda.

Your previous e-mail history tell me you're referring to your 2003
MAZDASPEED Proteg with VIN JM1BJ227330650229.

The difference between MS1 and MS2 are basically the production builds.
(2003 and 2003.5)

MPS refers to MAZDASPEED Proteg.

For instance, our records indicate JM1BJ227330650229 shows it's a 2003
PRO MS2 P. This is our internal indication that this is a 2003.5
MAZDAPSEED Proteg. The extra "P" at the end just signifies it's a
manual transmission.

Again, thank you for contacting Mazda. It has been my pleasure to
assist you. Please feel free to reply to this message with any further
questions or comments.

Please take a moment to give us your opinion about our e-mail service.
Click or paste the link below to complete a brief, online survey.

http://www.zoomerang.com/survey.zgi?p=WEB2248YQE39U6

Regards,

Heather B.
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business
 
hehe, nice

i didnt know that P stood for manuat tranny though....good to know :)
 
I was hoping that guy wouldve answered me. That girl doesnt seem to be quite as good... Yeah, now I know something else I didnt (P)! Thats good!

Dr.Sound said:
hehe, nice

i didnt know that P stood for manuat tranny though....good to know :)
 
Back