LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

my ecu's "memory" wire is cut as well, patrick. i would make the relay/power source to the haltech as clean as possible
 
I guess i"m a bit surprised that you guys cut and clip so much of the stock ECU. In the Microtech installation we let the stock ECU have as much of it's inputs as it wants. We just steal the injectors and coils and the stock ECU leaves us alone basically. Works great :). Hence I'm a little confused about the need to clip the memory wire and isolate the power etc.
 
TurfBurn said:
I guess i"m a bit surprised that you guys cut and clip so much of the stock ECU. In the Microtech installation we let the stock ECU have as much of it's inputs as it wants. We just steal the injectors and coils and the stock ECU leaves us alone basically. Works great :). Hence I'm a little confused about the need to clip the memory wire and isolate the power etc.

i believe the memory wire is cut to prevent the stock ecu from learning around the haltech? that has been my best guess but since the injectors are cut from the stock ecu entirely that has been a mystery to me.
 
Hmm.. yeah... that is interesting! Don't know what would be the purpose... so who knows... I"m all about simple :)
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
i believe the memory wire is cut to prevent the stock ecu from learning around the haltech? that has been my best guess but since the injectors are cut from the stock ecu entirely that has been a mystery to me.

They are cut to avoid getting a CEL, that is the only reason I see for it. If the ECU resets every time you turn the car off, then your CEL's also reset.


Man the wiring job I did was CLEAN.. I wish I had a before shot (he wouldnt let me take one). But I will post an after shot tonight. It looks BEAUTIFUL IMO. Shrink tube and electric tape pwn.
 
ELEmental59437 said:
They are cut to avoid getting a CEL, that is the only reason I see for it. If the ECU resets every time you turn the car off, then your CEL's also reset.

perhaps, but if everything is wired accordingly, why would you get a CEL and from what? injectors not being connected to the ECU? and if that is the only reason then frankly thats pretty damn annoying because the last time i got a CEL it was a very serious one that was wiped when i restarted the car and i had to repeat the same event to trip that CEL again so i could read it.
 
In the case of the Microtech we steal most of the sensors... and the O2 will be off because of being rich for turbo etc... so then you do end up with a CEL... so cutting the memory is a great idea/way of killing the CEL.
 
ELEmental59437 said:
Man I hope you didnt undo all my pretty wire work!

No, The only thing I undid was the wires under the hood hooked to the crank sensor. I wrapped it back up though. I ran out of light, and couldn't do anything else since I left my florescent shop light at your house.. :mad:
 
Ok, so I just ruled out Ahmad's wiring as a possible cause. Sorry man, I had to check to be sure. I know you know what you are doing, but I had to know. I'm sure you would do the same. So now I will be checking for a better power source. I know the ground we have is good because it is directly to the battery (negative side).
 
Hahaha! It's all good, I put all his handiwork back to the way he did it. I also traced the power wire that we used directly back to the big blue wire. It is already connected to the best ignition source. I guess I had better put in that relay, and do a direct connection to the battery for clean power.
 
Ahmad, I also traced those two-sided mystery wire. I know it is alarm related. I called Pirana, and he seems to recall someone else maybe having the same issue I am with the high voltage. It turned out to be a wire that went to the ECU or something. I will keep on researching.
 
Hello Linux,

Just get the power from the blue wire coming out of the ignition switch. The Haltech ECU only needs 3 amps. The best source for the ground is the engine block or cylinder head. I like it better than the battery. It will absorb electronic noise better.
 
HiBoost TS said:
Hello Linux,

Just get the power from the blue wire coming out of the ignition switch. The Haltech ECU only needs 3 amps. The best source for the ground is the engine block or cylinder head. I like it better than the battery. It will absorb electronic noise better.

Yep, this is where how it is hooked up now. I wonder if my Alarm system has anything to do with what is going on... The mystery wire..
 
Pat, your voltage might be attributed to the fact that the compustar neutral saftey is clipped. On the compustar's hook up, the neutral safety is dioded to the brakes so current can pass when the car is in gear and not start cause of the diode. Well, since yours is just in pieces, connect the compustar back up, or resolder the neutral safety.

when mine was disconnected, my idles were erradic and when i hit the brakes, the rpms voltage shot up. two cels i had p0850 and p0507. Clutch senor and one other, cant remember. Basically the stock ecu had no idea what gear the car is in.



Give that a shot pat and see what happens, the worst is that you get your remote start back.
 
I don't remember any wires in my Compustar install being connected directly to the ECU...


Pics of the clean wiring job... woot

normal_patricks%20haltech%20install%20034.jpg



normal_patricks%20haltech%20install%20035.jpg



normal_patricks%20haltech%20install%20039.jpg
 
ELEmental59437 said:
I don't remember any wires in my Compustar install being connected directly to the ECU...

Well, here is the mystery wire that was cut off marked by the (weak) red arrow:
Mystery_Wire.jpg


I traced it back to the alarm system. Ahmad, do you remember which wire on the ECU harness this was connected to? I need to get it hooked back up.
 
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