LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

My Mp3 is on it's 3rd starter or better... and it has 26,000 miles :) LOL... the one I replaced was not original... so apparently Terry burned one out.. hence my belief that it is the 3rd or more! :)
 
TurfBurn said:
also check the IAT sensor... the stock puter uses that for determine voltage drive..

ALSO, make sure the battery sense wire has a good connection... it may be overdriving because it thinks the voltages are dropping when they aren't... I'll have to find that pin number for you... I have it around somewhere (check the "wiring your EMS" thread.. it may be in there).

Probably something to do with pins 4 and 55.
 
30 and 53 are the pins for the activation and regulation signals... looking for the others right now...

55,4, 71,97 are all B+ to the ECU... the B+ between the alternator and battery is a direct line... I'm not 100% sure if our alternator is using that for feedback... but I think no...

Pin 53 I believe is the one doing the regulating... I don't have time to check that all the way... but the manual you can find online tells you how to check the regulation circuits...
 
vindication said:
mmm, power. cant wait for some results. hopefully linux will have most if not all the problems taken care of now. It's about time for this pioneer.
Soo, it came from columbia eh? soo, anything else come with this?
DSCF0667.JPG


lol
(rofl)

Ryan, i know, even my day is coming :) / :(
 
We didn't have to use pins 30 and 53 at all in this installation. Not sure what is up, but 15-16 volts is just too high!
TurfBurn said:
30 and 53 are the pins for the activation and regulation signals... looking for the others right now...

55,4, 71,97 are all B+ to the ECU... the B+ between the alternator and battery is a direct line... I'm not 100% sure if our alternator is using that for feedback... but I think no...

Pin 53 I believe is the one doing the regulating... I don't have time to check that all the way... but the manual you can find online tells you how to check the regulation circuits...
 
You shouldn't need to use those pins... in fact you can't unless you have a custom regulator... the low amperage portion of the voltage regulator is in our stock ECU, the other half is in the alternator... the P and D terminals of the alternator are controled by those two wires... and they are controlled in turn by the stock ECU... the D terminal I believe is the trick one that controls the field current to determine the output of the alternator... if the ECU is seeing somethign weird or doesn't think it has the 13 volts roughly that it is looking for it will overdrive the alternator the way you are seeing...

It does sound like you are getting electrical noise of some type as the ECU doesn't seem to be seeing the rpm's/load of the system properly. Again, you need to make sure that the stock ECU sees an IAT sensor (just throw a 2K resistor on those wires if you are already using the sensor for the Haltech).

What is up is simply that the stock ECU is having issues regulating the alternator.. now the question is what signal is the stock ECU getting confused on that it is having issues with regulating...

Try seeing what the voltages are on pin 53 starting with no loads on and the car idling... then add the headlights, then the fans, then the A/C and anything else youc an come up with... the voltage on pin 53 should increase with each load added... otherwise you have issues.

Later!

Steve
 
I dont think the issues posted are exactly the problem. The higer voltages he is talking about are on his passport, not the Haltech. The gauuge page of the haltech reads pretty normal voltages, lower than the passport at least. When the car is not running but in ignition the voltages on the passport is right around 11.9, and fluxuates a little more than what I would say is normal.

Patrick, the first wire I would mess with is the power wire to the E6X. That is the only one I am not confident on since I didnt trace that wire back to where you tapped it. You could have a bad location, or something along those lines. The polarity on the crank sensor is right, I am sure of this.

Could this have something to do with your air temp sensor being open air?

Patrick, call me tonight before you touch any of the wiries in the harness. I want to give this a few more runs before we undo a lot of things. I get off work at 6.

PICS WILL BE UP TONIGHT
 
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ELEmental59437 said:
I dont think the issues posted are exactly the problem. The higer voltages he is talking about are on his passport, not the Haltech. The gauuge page of the haltech reads pretty normal voltages, lower than the passport at least. When the car is not running but in ignition the voltages on the passport is right around 11.9, and fluxuates a little more than what I would say is normal.

Patrick, the first wire I would mess with is the power wire to the E6X. That is the only one I am not confident on since I didnt trace that wire back to where you tapped it. You could have a bad location, or something along those lines. The polarity on the crank sensor is right, I am sure of this.

Could this have something to do with your air temp sensor being open air?

Patrick, call me tonight before you touch any of the wiries in the harness. I want to give this a few more runs before we undo a lot of things. I get off work at 6.

PICS WILL BE UP TONIGHT

my gauge page has never read above 14 volts just for reference. even if you did not tap the charge pipe for the air temp sensor it should not cause a voltage problem. where is the sensor placed?
 
ELEmental59437 said:
I dont think the issues posted are exactly the problem. The higer voltages he is talking about are on his passport, not the Haltech. The gauuge page of the haltech reads pretty normal voltages, lower than the passport at least. When the car is not running but in ignition the voltages on the passport is right around 11.9, and fluxuates a little more than what I would say is normal.

Patrick, the first wire I would mess with is the power wire to the E6X. That is the only one I am not confident on since I didnt trace that wire back to where you tapped it. You could have a bad location, or something along those lines. The polarity on the crank sensor is right, I am sure of this.

Could this have something to do with your air temp sensor being open air?

Patrick, call me tonight before you touch any of the wiries in the harness. I want to give this a few more runs before we undo a lot of things. I get off work at 6.

PICS WILL BE UP TONIGHT

Yes, the polarity of the crank sensor is correct. I already checked that. I traced the wire for the Haltech Power. It looks to be connected to the harness that Victor worked on when he was installing my alarm system. I will try to find another ignition source (the big thick blue wire) to get power from. Also Ahmad, did you run a switched 12 volts to the stock ECU side of pins 4 and 55? More to follow.
 
LinuxRacr said:
Yes, the polarity of the crank sensor is correct. I already checked that. I traced the wire for the Haltech Power. It looks to be connected to the harness that Victor worked on when he was installing my alarm system. I will try to find another ignition source (the big thick blue wire) to get power from. Also Ahmad, did you run a switched 12 volts to the stock ECU side of pins 4 and 55? More to follow.

4 and 5 aren't switched... they are always hot. For powering the Haltech for the ignition switching try using 71 and 97 as they ARE ignition switched (IG1).
 
LinuxRacr said:
I will try to find another ignition source (the big thick blue wire) to get power from..

thats what i am using (as well as the relay) - where do you have it powered now?
 
TurfBurn said:
4 and 55 aren't switched... they are always hot. For powering the Haltech for the ignition switching try using 71 and 97 as they ARE ignition switched (IG1).

Well when used with the Haltech, these wires are cut at 4 and 55, and then the stock ECU does NOT get constant 12 anymore. This is why I asked him that.
 
Your Haltech harness had a red wire labeled as "Switched 12v to pins 4 and 55 so thats what I connected it to. when I wired my haltech, I did not have that same wire.
 
From what Juan told me on the phone just now, the stock ECU needs to have a switched 12v source going into the stock ECU too at wires 4 and 55. The engine side of wires 4 and 55 should be just isolated. Did you hook into the stock ECU side, or the Engine side of 4 and 55?
 
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Then that makes it interesting because the injector and ignition wires are all good! I will check on the power to the E6X. BTW, what do you have your plugs gapped at Ahmad?
 
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I say you try to wire up that relay like the Captain because it seems like its your best bet...

isn't that fuel pump wire that the MPI people use(under the console) good for the key on power? That might not be what your looking for but it was just a thought..
 
Oh, most definitely NOT the fuel pump wire. We cut that out to make sure there were no issues with that! I think I will use the relay that I have from my Pierburg Fuel pump, connect that to ignition, and do a wire directly to the battery for power like KRM said.
 
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Wire 71 will give you a good switching source and it is eay to get at... but it does sound like that could cause some issues for you... it's important for that ECU to see what it needs! :)
 
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