i want some sound but i need help

Greenbread

Member
:
Mazda 3s
now id like to pre apologize for anything i say thats wrong because i have no idea.
Ok so i got a mazda 3's 6 with a 6 disk changer. i want a nice sub sound but do i need an amp then. how much would a sub and amp cost. and i wont need new speakers will i or a new reciever. and were can i get them
 
As far as I know, you will need an amp to power the sub.

You can get the signal from the headunit with a LOC.

Cost varies wildly. I would highly suggest checking out the Car Audio forums that are on this website, and other places like sounddomain.com.

However, a lot of the time with car audio, you get what you pay for.
 
FONT=Century Gothic]Easiest that I know of is what I did in my Pro5 and am going to be moving into my 3s-4dr...

I got an Infinity Basslink from my local 'big box' electronics store. It's an excellent sub if you want to add depth and quality to your sound, and generate a little thump without being too strong. If you're looking to rumble the neighborhood, forget it, you'd need at least 2 of these babies, and they are close to about $450 with installation per unit. There are even two mounting formats: Horizontal and Vertical, depending on your preference. (lol2)

The best part about the Basslink for me (being that the factory headunit meets all my needs) is that you can install it to the factory headunit without any LOC, as it allows both RCA inputs and line-level inputs. Check it out, it's a very good piece of equipment. (drive)

In my Pro5, I had it mounted in the horizontal fashion to the back of the rear seat (so it was actually vertical) - this worked well, but robbed me of space for oversized cargo when the seat was down. My challenge now is mounting the baby in my 4-door. I test-fitted it, and found that the best place seems to be on the left, as close to the side as possible, as close to the seatback as possible.

But... 3 minor little issues: (1) the side panel needs to be notched out at the bottom to accommodate the feet on the mounting brackets, (2) the rearmost bracket will enroach on the plastic spare tire cover, requiring it to be notched out about 2-3" and (3) the slope of the well where the spare sits is going to mean that the threads of the mounting screw will be exposed about 1/2" before actually starting into the steel. I can handle 1 and 2, but not too fond of 3. Now I do plan on dropping a dab of black waterproof roofing caulk into each screwhole before screwing in the screws so that it seals around the screws completely, but I'm just not sure about that one that's going to go into the spare well. I thought about maybe buying some sort of plastic collar and cutting it to length to cover the threads, which is what I may do...or I may just skip that screw altogether and just let the other three hold the Basslink in place; it should be plenty sturdy.

Suggestions? (group)

All in all, the Basslink is a very good all-in-one unit with the amp and sub conveniently packaged. They also have a Basslink X which is in a clear plastic housing and a Basslink T which is a much larger multi-speaker unit.[/FONT]

Badger Biker said:
As far as I know, you will need an amp to power the sub.

You can get the signal from the headunit with a LOC.

Cost varies wildly. I would highly suggest checking out the Car Audio forums that are on this website, and other places like sounddomain.com.

However, a lot of the time with car audio, you get what you pay for.
 
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The Quick and Easy Sub Solution

Well, my BASSLINK is now installed in my MZ3. It sounds just as good as it did in the P5, with one minor exception. The plastic spare tire cover/tool holder buzzes like hell and is very easily heard with the trunk open. I'll have to do a little experimentation and find a way to suppress it.

I'm thinking that the stuff you can get for lining kitchen cabinets with will work. It's sold with the shelf-liner paper. It's a pad-like rubberized matting with holes throughout (I can't explain it any better) that can be cut to fit. I've used it for a lot of other things and it helps pretty well. I have it under my keyboard at work to keep it from sliding when I'm punching out a pissy e-mail. I have it lining the drawers of my toolchest to keep the tools from making such a racket when the drawers are opened. It's a pretty versatile thing.
 
Badger Biker said:
As far as I know, you will need an amp to power the sub.

You can get the signal from the headunit with a LOC.

Cost varies wildly. I would highly suggest checking out the Car Audio forums that are on this website, and other places like sounddomain.com.

However, a lot of the time with car audio, you get what you pay for.


i agree that u get what u pay for....BUT i bought some sony xplod 12"s at a flea market kinda place like 3 or 4 years ago and they still work.lol. now i know that if i bought one L7 it would sound alot better then both of those but im just sayin...im suprised with how long they've lasted.
 
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