How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

If some of you have a 1998 Mazda Protege, you may be hoping to have a look at the EGR cleaning process before trying to do it yourself. So here are some pictures from my recent first cleaning attempt.

I'll have to say that I was actually able to remove the EGR value by only removing the intake hose and air filter assembly. It's quite a ordeal and requires some tricky maneuvering but it is possible, even with that hose sticking right infront of the bolts. The bolts are arranged front to back (front of car to back of car orientation) instead of left to right (driver side to passenger side) like the newer Protege's. I removed the bolt closest to the firewall back pushing down the hose and coming from the top, and I removed the bolt closest to the front of the car by going from underneath the hose. It's tricky and you can only make like an eight of a turn with the wrench, but it's possible abit a risk of some bloody knuckles, just be patient and careful like me.

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The EGR Valve is located just under the throttle body plate and IAC. You can see that I've already disconnected the EGR connector at this point

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You can see the EGR Valve removed in this picture, notice how it is slightly tilted towards the front of the car, ensure you position it back this way when replacing. I spent like 20 mins trying to put it back in before realizing that there's no way to tilt it forward into the slot cause the IAC will be in the way. In has to be slid into position in front of the IAC.

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Here is the EGR Valve removed, yeah it's kinda dirty. But not bad for 13 years of driving. I cleaned it out using CRC's Throttle Body spray and a small toothbrush. I tried to clear out all the carbon deposits around the valve mechanism.

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Another pic of the EGR, notice the location of the yellow screw to match up the original location of all the screws.

So there you go! Let me know how it goes for you!
 
Nice, I have to try this over the weekend.

My car has been stalling and idling like crazy, but hopefully this will work.
 
reviving an old thread cuz i have my intake off cuz im removing the VTCS and port n polishing the intake but i left the lower plenum installed and cant figure out how to get to the 2 bolts that hold the egr in place.... i can pull up on the plenum a lil bit n touch the bolts but cant fit anything in there to get it off plus its freezing outside right now lol whats the secret? i dont wanna try to take the plenum out cuz that dam egr pipe nut is a b**** to get to
 
reviving an old thread cuz i have my intake off cuz im removing the VTCS and port n polishing the intake but i left the lower plenum installed and cant figure out how to get to the 2 bolts that hold the egr in place.... i can pull up on the plenum a lil bit n touch the bolts but cant fit anything in there to get it off plus its freezing outside right now lol whats the secret? i dont wanna try to take the plenum out cuz that dam egr pipe nut is a b**** to get to
As mentioned previously, I like to remove the throttle body, to make it easier to access. From there, do it by feel. Feel around for the two bolts holding it in place, then remove.
 
I have a cai and didn't have to remove anything to get to them...it wasn't hard at all to take off but some have better luck then others... I used a small ratchet with a small connection and a swivel tip and the socket...piece of cake but I'm sure the cold makes this whole process suck
 
I know I'm reviving an old thread, but I'm experiencing similar problems of rough idle and stall and think it may be my EGR valve. I pulled the assembly out today and took the value off for cleaning. But I noticed that the spring does not pop back up if depressed. The valve sticks down or it sticks up, depending where I leave it. I need to use a little force to move it. I have someone telling me that this is normal, and the vacuum pressure will move the valve as required. But doing a little research it sounds like the stuck EGR valve is the culprit in many rough idle situations. Here's a video I took of the valve sticking: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00cE1gU4d38
 
the canadian egr valve versions are supposedly "better" than us versions

Yeha I've heard that too. And if I need one, I'll pick up the Cdn version. Cheaper too, at my parts store. But what I want to know is: do I need to replace my EGR valve? Or is it operating normally?
 
Yeha I've heard that too. And if I need one, I'll pick up the Cdn version. Cheaper too, at my parts store. But what I want to know is: do I need to replace my EGR valve? Or is it operating normally?

when i cleaned mine (almost 2 years now, probably stuck again) the valve was gunked up and stuck. after cleaning it moved freely and spring had plenty of tension in it. soooo i assume yours is not working properly if the spring has lost tension in it.
 
My car started idling rough today and also started lurching on the freeway. Looks like people are suggesting that it's either the EGR valve or the air intake -- I've already got an air intake hose on the way since mine is definitely cracked -- but I'm thinking I'll clean the EGR valve while I'm at it.

Does anyone know where to buy the gasket by itself? I'm thinking that I might as well replace it if I'm fiddling with the EGR valve. Would be a nice idea to have it on hand just in case I bork it while doing the maintenance.
 
My car started idling rough today and also started lurching on the freeway. Looks like people are suggesting that it's either the EGR valve or the air intake -- I've already got an air intake hose on the way since mine is definitely cracked -- but I'm thinking I'll clean the EGR valve while I'm at it.

Does anyone know where to buy the gasket by itself? I'm thinking that I might as well replace it if I'm fiddling with the EGR valve. Would be a nice idea to have it on hand just in case I bork it while doing the maintenance.


The symptoms that you are describing could definitely be the cracked air intake, depending where the crack is. Sounds like a vacuum leak. It could also be the EGR valve but you might not be able to diagnose this until the cracked hose is first replaced.

If you do end up going the EGR valve route, I 100% recommend replacing the gasket. Plan to replace it if you even want to take off the EGR valve and look at it. When I removed the EGR valve a few months ago in my 2003 protege, most of the gasket was stuck to the valve housing and I needed to clean it off with a pneumatic rubber wheel. I actually tried putting the whole valve back on with the old gasket and I had a massive vacuum leak. Do yourself a favour a just get a new gasket now. I don't know where you're located, but here in Canada you can get it from Part Source, Napa, CarQuest, etc. I ended up getting mine from CarQuest for about $5.

Here's a thread detailing my EGR cleaning. I am pretty sure the EGR valve was sticking and the cleaning solved the problem. BTW I can't recommend the other user's post near the end about the thinner: http://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-protege-23/runs-rough-stalls-sometimes-no-start-31639/
 
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