Microtech Library

bpt maps

does anyone have any bpt maps with 550cc and t3? i didnt see any posted for the bpt but maybe I missed it......im haveing a little trouble getting mine to run right....its either too rich, or too lean
 
If you dont' have a wideband in your car (sounds like you don't since you don't know if it is too rich or too lean on startup) you'll be doomed to never getting it going properly and every car is different so a map doesn't guarantee you'll get it running right.. honestly the best thing is to get a wideband in there and the rest is "easy"

That said, we don't have any B series maps that I know of at all.
 
TurfBurn said:
If you dont' have a wideband in your car (sounds like you don't since you don't know if it is too rich or too lean on startup) you'll be doomed to never getting it going properly and every car is different so a map doesn't guarantee you'll get it running right.. honestly the best thing is to get a wideband in there and the rest is "easy"

That said, we don't have any B series maps that I know of at all.
I know its too rich and too lean, in places
I do have a wideband, however that doesnt help with any of the cold start issues, or pump1 and 2 settings, really, and a map to work off would be nice.
but it sucks that u guys dont have any bpt maps
 
The wideband should be able to read fast enough to help you on the Pump 1 and Pump2 settings... basically if you see it go lean and then rich on a pump activation you have too big of a throttle change requirement and too much fuel going in or for too long. Otherwise if it dips lean and comes back then you don't have quite enough pump in place, and vice versa if it goes rich then right. Also, Pump1 settings are very different from what you'll have for pump 2.

For startup, it's all about how it starts or doesn't start. If you dry crank a lot before it catches it means one of two things, you are either lean, or REALLY rich. If the car starts and then dies out pretty quickly it's a little lean. If it starts and runs rough and barely hangs on for life before crapping out then you are likely too rich. A simple way to test everything though is to move the master mix trm value up and down about 3% at a time and see if things get better or worse. Then set it back to where it was and make the proper map adjustments.
 
Is there an easy way to copy/load these files? I just went through and manually entered the values from post #43 for my idle and 1000rpm maps. Now that I'm getting used to the microtech system, it isn't too bad to enter it like that. Heck doing a tune while a friend is driving shouldn't be too bad either.
 
khaosman said:
Is there an easy way to copy/load these files? I just went through and manually entered the values from post #43 for my idle and 1000rpm maps. Now that I'm getting used to the microtech system, it isn't too bad to enter it like that. Heck doing a tune while a friend is driving shouldn't be too bad either.

I just did the samething a few days ago lol. My idle is rough, but I'm guessing it's due to not having the IAC hooked up to the MT.

What's a good base map to use for stock injectors, 8psi, Thumper Kit? I'm likely going to install my 440s soon, but don't see a need at only 8psi.
 
Yeah, the only way to transfer maps right now is via excel and manually entering them unless you ship a laptop adapter around to do it. That will change whenever they finish the LT16 (supposedly in the next month or so) as that will have the new software then and it will be available for all S units and you'll save to hard drive etc I guess.
 
CrazyCaker... I recommend leaving the IAC hooked up to the stock ECU, does a better job in my opinion. Rough idle is likely due to timing being off by a bit. Put it to about 15 degrees at idle and gun it to make sure it's accurate. Should idle glass smooth around 750-900 rpm's.
 
I know this is an MT thread, but I'm really contemplating hooking my IAC up to my haltech, instead of letting the stock ECU do it. Any reccomendations?
 
TurfBurn said:
CrazyCaker... I recommend leaving the IAC hooked up to the stock ECU, does a better job in my opinion. Rough idle is likely due to timing being off by a bit. Put it to about 15 degrees at idle and gun it to make sure it's accurate. Should idle glass smooth around 750-900 rpm's.

I was going to give you a call this evening to discuss a few things. Right now my idle is 1000-1100 and bouncing between that. I have a feeling that I put the canister check valve on the the purge solenoid backwards, but I'm not sure if that would cause the prob I'm having. The vac line with the check valve is collapsed (sucked closed) which is leading me to believe that it might be causing it.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
I know this is an MT thread, but I'm really contemplating hooking my IAC up to my haltech, instead of letting the stock ECU do it. Any reccomendations?
not sure how the haltech will handle it - i think the biggest problem with the microtech looking after it is that the control loop isn't developed enough. Its fine if your idle is 2000rpm (i can get it to hold there forever and a day) but at "low" idle speeds (anything between 800 and 1100), it hunts like crazy, as the rpm falls off when the MT closes the IAC valve, then tries to open it in a rush to get back to the "Target" rpm.

It also doesn't seem to "catch" a stall quick enough, a momentary drop below 600rpm and the car is doomed to stall.

I'm trying to get a work around.

Best bet is to find out who (no matter what the car) has the haltech running the IAC, and get an indication of how often it references the sensors, and how sophisticated the control loop is....
You may run into impedance and duty cycle problems on the mazda IAC as well. if you do (you'll know, idle will be all over the shop, and you'll likely here a very audible buzz as the solenoid opens and closes....), i'd suggest investigating a solenoid that is "known" to work with the haltech, and retrofitting it to your car....

Hope that all made sense...
 
Totally made sense, but the Haltech has settings where you can tell it how many times to cycle the solenoid (50Hz, 100Hz, 10Hz) whatever you want per second, so it doesn't "hunt" too badly. Here lemme post a screen.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
Totally made sense, but the Haltech has settings where you can tell it how many times to cycle the solenoid (50Hz, 100Hz, 10Hz) whatever you want per second, so it doesn't "hunt" too badly. Here lemme post a screen.
ahhh good stuff..you should have no problem

the "hunting" on the MT i believe is more to do with the lack of resolution/slow referencing of sensors coupled with low idle speeds...
i'd assume the haltech references sensors more often, if not in realtime...

I got lucky with my MT, it was ORIGINALLY programmed as a US unit, so it already had Steve's adaptations applied to it....so frequency isn't as much of a problem.
 
Here we go. First shot is the actual idle parameters setup, so hot idle RPM, then how much to add for cold idle, and post-start idle, etc. Stepper motor box is unchecked cause the Protege uses a BAC (bypass air control) valve.

Second shot shows how you can adjust how much the solenoid cycles.
 

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Maxx Mazda said:
Here we go. First shot is the actual idle parameters setup, so hot idle RPM, then how much to add for cold idle, and post-start idle, etc. Stepper motor box is unchecked cause the Protege uses a BAC (bypass air control) valve.

Second shot shows how you can adjust how much the solenoid cycles.
Looks alot more sophisticated than the MT

basically, we have an Output idle air min and max setting (minimum and maximum time the valve can be open for when activated, in milliseconds), a cold start adjustment and a link up to an input for idling up with an accessory


I'm hoping that with the new software upgrade (whenever that happens) that the control loop will be ALOT more sophisticated. The internal componantry of the LT*S series ECU's is on a par with some far more expensive units, but the firmware isn't highly developed (and hasn't been upgraded in a long time)

What Haltech you running? you got traction control capability on your ECU? what about built in boost control?

I'm considering Haltech for my dedicated rail, especially if its got traction control (my vehicle of choice is a bit, shall we say, unconventional - and has next to no weight over the rear axle and diff - so any sort of traction control elements would be advantageous!)
 
I'm running the E6X. I was gonna go with the E11 but too much $$$.

The E6X has the ability to control your A/C, (bumps up idle too) so will only let it come on when throttle is below 80%, and will shut off above x psi or RPM, yada yada. You can set all that. I will control the Protege's VICS system, it is my boost controller, allows me to switch between my 2 maps on the fly with a switch in my glovebox, etc. It even has a flat shift feature, so when you go to shift, as you push in the clutch, you hold down a button and it ramps timing to 10* ATDC and you shift then let go and timing returns to normal. This allows you to shift without having to take your foot off the gas and your engine wont rev way up. ALternatively, you could hook it to your clutch switch, and run a toggle to your glovebox so it only works at the track, not day to day driving...

I don't think it has launch control, but you can write your WG map to limit boost at certain RPM's so that you don't spin off the line. Ya, it's got maps for boost, not just a "high" and "low" setting, although I am using my trim knob to control boost levels.

The Haltech is far superior than the MT in my opinion, that's why I went with it. The interface is much nicer, it has more features, and is also more user-friendly to boot. Download the HalWinX software, you'll see what I mean. I'm sure the MT can do alot of things too, but the Haltech can even control NOS and has a Torque Converter control if youy're running an auto. You literally could run the Protege on the Haltech and remove the stock ECU altogether. It has the ability to control everything.
 
Ok... newbish question as I go out to tune here in a bit. What do you guys tune to for non-boost situations, 14.7 AFR? I'm going to aim for 12.0 or just under for boost. Would you want it to start richening up as it gets closer to boost?
 
This thread is horribly off topic now. For Haltech vs. Microtech, it needs to continue in another thread.
 
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