Failed piston ring?

im sleevin my block, only because cylinder wall is ****** and, it's not costing much :D, know the builder...and i don't know anyone that has even tried this yet with boost....so no one can really comment if it helps, etc...
 
azian6er said:
man sounds like to what happpened to me...
except i had 30 psi in #3 not 90.

I bet your studs are failing man and you are loosing compression into your water jackets.

I would keep an eye on your coolant temps if you could. Also take off the rad. cap and watch for air bubbles come up. if you see them then you may be losing that compression into the coolant.

damn 10 mm studs!

-Bryan
How long did it end up taking to replace your HG? How many people were in it? When I put a new head on my car earlier this year, it was days worth of work for me, and I had help at times.

I checked my oil and coolant...they both look normal. Did you do the teaspoon of oil test to see if the rings had failed?
 
azian6er said:
ps i put the new head on with new gasket and 11 mm studs. Thumper is running and making 210 psi on all cylinders. I couldnt be more happy.

Take the studs out and get the 11s. You will save yourself a lot of guess work and headache later. TRUST me.


-B
210psi on all cylinders?? WHAT? How? That's so far above spec...
 
azian6er said:
yes he did use the 10mm arp's aka death

pull the head man change the studs new gasket and your compression will be good i believe. But i would inspect the piston rigs of courseas well.

-B
Well, i gotta pull the piston to check the rings. And the test I did pointed to it being the rings.
 
Kooldino said:
How long did it end up taking to replace your HG? How many people were in it? When I put a new head on my car earlier this year, it was days worth of work for me, and I had help at times.

I checked my oil and coolant...they both look normal. Did you do the teaspoon of oil test to see if the rings had failed?
damn dude, my 1st time opening up the engine took me 2 hours to pull the head....:D
 
PRO 5 said:
As far as needing to take your trans off.... no you don't. You can just slightly seperate the trans from the motor just to take off 2 bolts that are holding on the main bearing support that are just behind your flywheel. You will have to take your top end off, oil pan, main bearing support and then you can get access to the rods. Once you take off the rod caps the pistons can be pushed out the top of the block. If I lived close to you I would definetly help out but I'm about half the pacific ocean away. :D Good luck and don't get to frustrated when/if things don't go how they should!

Dave
Yeah, that's exactly what I thought I had to do, recalling the time I built up the motor. Except i wasn't sure about the tranny. So i take it you speak from experience? Can you snap a pic and draw arrows pointing to the bolts i have to pull out?
 
MAMotorsports said:
What type of ring package do you have now?
The ones that came with my JE-SRP pistons.

What type are you getting?
The same ones, I hope.

Different ring packages require different RA reading to seal properly.
RA reading??

See if you can find a Profalometer(Gives you the RA) and take a few readings in the cylinders.Then look up what you need.
Where can i find a Profalometer?

On all our high HP setups we have the pistons gas drilled.This helps the pistons seal under high boost loads.
I'm sure mine aren't drilled. I've seen pics of ones that were, and asked about them, but supposedly they're only good for racecars since they corrode the ring sooner or something.
 
Focus said:
When I twisted my rod we rebuilt the engine in car. Let me tell you it's a hell of a job. The only major hickup was removing the oil pan. They did it without removing the tranny, by drilling a little access window to get to two bolts.
How long did the whole job take?

Which two bolts were being cockblocked? Pics/more info?
 
mp5jeff said:
damn dude, my 1st time opening up the engine took me 2 hours to pull the head....:D
2 hours? I had so many damn things connected to the head it took a day in itself.
 
Kooldino said:
2 hours? I had so many damn things connected to the head it took a day in itself.
hah, sucks...you should be able to do it faster this time since you know what to do im sure...i basically just pulled the intake manifold off with the head, seemed to be alot easier then trying to **** with those hard to get bolts...
 
mp5jeff said:
damn dude, my 1st time opening up the engine took me 2 hours to pull the head....:D
Looks like if you get me and jeff together we could take the motor completly apart it about half an hour!!! Hahaha!

Dave
 
lol...i seriously thought it was gona take a weekend, but only ended up a few hours...the hard part was getting the stock head studs off, i had to use a long breaker bar haha.
 
mp5jeff said:
hah, sucks...you should be able to do it faster this time since you know what to do im sure...i basically just pulled the intake manifold off with the head, seemed to be alot easier then trying to **** with those hard to get bolts...
Yeah, that's what I did.
 
Kooldino said:
How long did the whole job take?

Which two bolts were being cockblocked? Pics/more info?
...............................................(lol)

Seriously, get that motor up and running again. If I was in the area, you know I'd stop by and lend a hand. Anyway, how many miles did you have on your JE/SRP's?
 
LinuxRacr said:
...............................................(lol)

Seriously, get that motor up and running again. If I was in the area, you know I'd stop by and lend a hand. Anyway, how many miles did you have on your JE/SRP's?
Well, here's the thing...the car still runs fairly normally. If you rode in it, you'd never know that I had low comp in one cylinder.

But anyway, about 12K miles on the pistons.
 
Kooldino,


An RA is a roughness average of the surface in micro inches or (micro meter). Measuring RA value of cylinder bore surface will tell you if you are on the right track. At the very minimum you need a profilometer. The profilometer measures RA and works by dragging a stylus across the surface giving you your roughness average value. Different ring patches require different ring values in order to seal properly. If you tell me what ring package you are using, I can tell you the RA you need. The profilometer is typically 5K to 15K dollars. See if any local machine shops near you have one that you can possibly borrow. With today's technology it is essential that you get the proper RA for the ring package you are running to get the longevity and reliablity of your ring package.
Next, you need to get a bore gauge and make sure you don't have bore taper. On a motor that has been run, it develops tapered wear patterns. Typically it wears more at the top then at the bottom. This is because it is wear loads and heat is the greatest. A tapered cylinder is hard on the rings because it forces the rings to expand and contract with every stroke of the piston. The in and out movement of the rings also cause wear in the piston ring grooves. Tapered cylinders also increase piston to bore clearance which in turn increases blow by, reduces compression and causes the engine to consume oil. Blow by can create additional wear problems within the engine by washing oil off the cylinder walls (this accelerates ring wear) and by contaminating the oil in the crank case with fuel and moisture. Taper wear typically leaves a small ridge at the top if each cylinder. If the ridge is more than .003, it must be removed before the rings can be installed.
If you need any help, don't hesitate. If I can help you I will. I want to see you up and running with miniumum problems as possible.
 
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Kooldino said:
Well, here's the thing...the car still runs fairly normally. If you rode in it, you'd never know that I had low comp in one cylinder.

But anyway, about 12K miles on the pistons.

Hmm...I wonder how my rings are doing....(nervous)
 
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