How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting

Nope... The spare head portion is still in the works. =) I need to pick up a new head very soon to do work on, but I havn't found one for the right price that fits the bill, unfortunatly. =/
 
so mp3 has vics? i cant take it off? or would it be better to keep it on? i see in you write up (good oen btw) that mp3s have vics only. i can tell the car cant pick up very good after 5k rpm any suggestion to make it faster? port polish mayb?
 
AznXstazy said:
so mp3 has vics? i cant take it off? or would it be better to keep it on? i see in you write up (good oen btw) that mp3s have vics only. i can tell the car cant pick up very good after 5k rpm any suggestion to make it faster? port polish mayb?

MP3's have ViCS only, no VTCS. Why would you want to remove ViCS? VTCS is the only thing that robs the hp in our engines. Not ViCS
 
Yep, you've got it right. The VICS is useful, and should be kept... The VTCS is the one to remove, but it doesn't exist if you have an MP3. The death in power above 5k is mostly, in my experience, due to the restrictive nature of the forward portion of the exhaust. The addition of a header, and exhaust work should open that up.

Other than that, cams allow for more power up high... Cam gears allow tuning of where the powerband sits, and headwork certainly never hurts the higher revving power, either. If you're going to stay N/A, don't make the head too cavernous, as that will hurt velocity and efficiency, which is what you need more than anything in regards to N/A setups.
 
flat_black said:
Other than that, cams allow for more power up high... Cam gears allow tuning of where the powerband sits, and headwork certainly never hurts the higher revving power, either. If you're going to stay N/A, don't make the head too cavernous, as that will hurt velocity and efficiency, which is what you need more than anything in regards to N/A setups.

k i got you guys now. so i dont have that thing. i have vics which is good. so about the camshafts you think that mazdaspeed protege are any good? i was thinkin about just getin headers, because read somewhere that mp3 have decent exhaust system which they do. they have rb exhaust, but with cat. but i think the headers would be more restrictive than the exhaust. also if i get cam shafts do i need gears too?
 
if you get cams yes get gears to tune your curve
msp stock cams are the same as yours (i believe)
 
Yes, cam gears are good to tune the cams to get the most out of them.

Mazdaspeed cams come in a couple different variations. The cams from a Mazdaspeed Protege are the same as stock Protege 2.0L cams, but if you get the cams from a MPS, which stands for Mazda Performance Series, Familia 2.0L, those are more aggressive. The intake came is a Mazdaspeed part, I beleive, but the exhaust cam is just a J-Spec part, meaning it exists in all Japanese 2.0L.

They can be somewhat expensive, and they don't make as huge of a gain as regrinds, hardwelds, or custom cut billets, but they're easier, as they drop right in, and most likely, the shims won't be too far off. Always should check the clearance though, just to be sure.
 
if you dont wanna go through hassle, gett j-spec intake/exhaust camshafts....but other than that, your best bet is custom grind camshafts
plus with j-spec cams you wont see big difference unless you got some other mods like CAI/SRI, header, exhaust, or even F/I
 
I was talking to my brother about your write up and said it would be a bad idea to use metal filler in your intake manifold. Over time, from the manifold heating and cooling , the filler may work its way loss.
 
I've had this done for 35,000 miles, and just pulled my intake manifold last weekend to check an issue with the head, and it was as solid, perhaps even more, than when I started.
 
Don't know if this has been asked before but is there a way to keep the VTCS always open without having to remove the intake manifold. I know you won't gain as much power if you don't completely remove it but maybe a little extra power. I'd like to remove them and port the manifold later but I really don't have the time right now and another car to use. You think if you can just keep it open that might help a little?
 
Does the MP3 manni have VTCS? I'm to lazy to have it removed I rather find one that doesn't have it that would also happened be a direct fit.
 
Protege_Speed: No, the VTCS is open all the time after the car is warmed up; The only thing you'd do by keeping it open all the time is slightly hurt the cold start drivability until the car warmed up a little.

TiGrayMSP: The Japanese/Australian manifold had no VTCS, and neither did the MP3. They both fit directly onto the MSP.
 
flat_black said:
I've had this done for 35,000 miles, and just pulled my intake manifold last weekend to check an issue with the head, and it was as solid, perhaps even more, than when I started.


Maybe so but i dont want to take any chances. I am taking it to some one to have the holes welded shut.
 
I guess I misunderstood your write-up. You said, "[size=-1]The VTCS system turns off after the car has reached a designated temperature, and doesn't close the tumble valves completely until 3000rpm, anyway." I thought you meant they get closed at around 3000rpm but actually they are open. Is that right?[/size]

flat_black said:
Protege_Speed: No, the VTCS is open all the time after the car is warmed up; The only thing you'd do by keeping it open all the time is slightly hurt the cold start drivability until the car warmed up a little.
 
Protege_Speed said:
Don't know if this has been asked before but is there a way to keep the VTCS always open without having to remove the intake manifold. I know you won't gain as much power if you don't completely remove it but maybe a little extra power. I'd like to remove them and port the manifold later but I really don't have the time right now and another car to use. You think if you can just keep it open that might help a little?

well if you still leave it open it still blocks about 30% of the air coming in, therefore the air flow is kinda screwing up in there.
 
I have a picture, somewhere. Let me take a look around, and I'll post it shortly.

At any rate, Protege_Speed, I'll clarify on my statement:

The VTCS remains partially open most of the time when the car is cold... As you get on the throttle while it's cold, at 3000 RPM is when it is closed the furthest, overall. After it's warm, the VTCS just stays completely open.
 
flat_black said:
After it's warm, the VTCS just stays completely open.

its not completely open. Completely open would be exactly 90 degrees opposite to the closed position (like a right angle) which in this case is not. It still fully open but its open to about 70/80 degrees, which still kinda blocks the air and the air flow is not as perfect as if the butterflies would be fully open (90 degrees)

Definetly worth of removing the whole VTCS setup.
 
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