How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting

flat_black said:
I would suggest taking it off and putting some Permatex red all along either side of both of the gaskets.

If you can get the car to start and idle, get some carb cleaner, too, and to find vac leaks, spray the cleaner at key spots that might be leaking... If the car's rev's change or fluctuate at all, then you found your leak.
My car is running ok now, but acting a little strange when warming up. It seemed like the rpms took a dip when I press the gas in neutral today, and almost killed the engine, but only when warming up. I'm gonna try to check the vacuum with the carb cleaner spray method. Isn't engine degreaser the same kind stuff, or do I need carb cleaner specifically?
 
The ecu was reset just this morning.

Will try to get some carb cleaner tomorrow and try that stuff out.

The strange thing is I notice none of this bogging after the car is wamred up. While it is warming, the slightest tap on the gas sends the rpms plummeting. Because of this I'm wondering if it has something to do with VTCS, like a vacuum leak after the solenoid?
Does the VTCS only switch when you are on the throttle?
I removed the actuator completely, and screwed a tight bolt onto the end of the hose, and used a hose clamp on it. It seemed like a good fit, but maybe the vacuum is getting past the threads of the bolt? What did you guys do with the hose? Leave it attached to the actuator?

If there are no other problems, and it is just enrichment like you suggest, is there something that I can do about this? No one else has mentioned this problem though, so I'm thinking something is a litttle screwy with my setup.

BTW, my warmup period seems much shorter now(at least twice as fast), which I'm guessing is attributed to the thermal spacers, and coolant bypass mod since there is less metal to heat up. Just an interesting side note.

Sorry for all the longwindedness and questions, I really appreciate the info and advice.
 
Well, the solenoid is still attached. I just figured I'd remove the actuator, so that loose rod wouldn't be clanking around. I don't really see much of a difference; the actuactor holds vacuum just like a capped hose. I guess the actuator "gives" a little bit, but I wouldn't think that would be enough difference to cause a problem. Maybe I'm wrong.
 
Look at the back of the intake manifold, where the VTCS and VICS actuators are. Just behind that. Take a vacuum cap, and cap off the arm of the T that goes to the left when looking at it from above. That should be the VTCS, and should offer vacuum directly to JUST the VICS, but leave the solenoid plugged in.

That should shorten the vac path up a bit, and maybe help your problems some.
 
I capped the fittings properly now. Still having the same problems though. Could not find vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray method. I'm starting a new thread on this problem of mine.

One last question: did you have to adjust your idle screw at all?
Mine idles at 750, but I wonder if the ECU is having to do something funky to get it there, that adjusting the idle screw would maybe do better.
 
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I didn't have to adjust the idle at all, but I did anyway... It makes the car run smoother, and all, so it just seemed like a good idea while I had everything off.

Hmm. I did have the ported manifold when I had the original ECU, but I never EVER push my car at all before it's warmed up. I mean, never exceeding 3-3.5k, no hard acceleration, ad nausium, so it's viable that I never really came into a situatation that would cause me to notice the strange running when cold. You should ask BlkZoomZoom if he has the same issues, too; It might be due to the turbo, but I don't think so, honestly.
 
I am the same way with my car. This is not from pushing the car hard while it is cold. This is me trying to get out of a parking space, just giving enough gas to engage the clutch.
 
we swapped mine today well when i say we imean Flat-black swapped mine today what a great mod definately livens up the top end.
 
Hey, I just received my spare intake manifold! I was wondering if I had to ENDLARGE the port or just remove the step that the VTCS butterflies have. Thanks!
 
Thanks for the how-to flat_black... did it this weekend and had no problems! Definitley helps 5k to redline...
 
No kidding, eh? =) That's awesome to hear! Did you take any pics, by any chance, Vivid?

On a side note, I have a second manifold available to anyone who wants to buy it. You can either do this yourself, or have me port it for an additional $100, if you want. Anyone interested? =)
 
Sorry man, no pics... was kinda in a hurry (I painted my headlights at the same time, so the car was down for two days).

flat_black said:
No kidding, eh? =) That's awesome to hear! Did you take any pics, by any chance, Vivid?

On a side note, I have a second manifold available to anyone who wants to buy it. You can either do this yourself, or have me port it for an additional $100, if you want. Anyone interested? =)
 
One gripe: can you make the link color NOT blue on your page? it's hard to read the blue text on the black BG.
 
Kooldino said:
One gripe: can you make the link color NOT blue on your page? it's hard to read the blue text on the black BG.
Would you like some cheese with that whine? (laugh)
 
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