Rear hatch lift support/strut broke

G

GNO

Member

• Sep 25, 2004

• #1

The ball broke off the piece that mounts to the hatch. So I'm down to one support and it doesn't work well. I'll probably replace them both, so if someone and Part Numbers that they're willing to share. . . that'd be great!


It looks like there was some rust build-up in the ball and socket joint. The additional friction caused too much stress for th eball to remain attached to the pedestal. It seems my megligence in lubing that joint caused the failure. If you're reading this. . . lubricate the ball and socket on your rear lift supports, so you don't wind up in my predicament.

 

R

RaiderMS3

Contributor

:

2007 MS3 GT

• Sep 25, 2004

• #2

I do not know the part #, but most auto parts stores carry the struts in stock. Probably have a guide to tell what will fit the P5. Most likely will be a lot cheaper than the dealer as well. I replaced the ones on my CRX with a set from Pep Boys for $100 bucks, but that was a few years ago.

 

G

GNO

Member

• Sep 26, 2004

• #3

No luck at the parts stores. I tried Napa, Carquest, and O'Riely's. Maybe I'll try Advanced and Autozone tomorrow. The dealership wants $65/ea.

 

R

RaiderMS3

Contributor

:

2007 MS3 GT

• Sep 26, 2004

• #4

Check with Mazda of Wooster in Ohio. I bought stuff from them on ebay cheaper than the evil local dealer, and I think they are an authorized vender here. Really good people there. I think I worked with a guy named Billy. 1-877-232-3402.

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Jun 11, 2008

• #5

same thing just happened to me; LUBE EM BEFOR ITS TOO LATE

Wish I would have seen this thread or just performed some seemingly routine (now) maintenance.
I was really tired Monday night but need to get some things out of the hatch ~1130 at night, got the stuff, started pushing down on the hatch and hear SNAP and the hatch closed down fast. WTF, see the gap and the right strut sticking out by the taillight. I can't shut the f-ing hatch, the strut wont compress (a lot of pressure in them) F F F I muttered and opened the garage got the tools and a light.
Found what OP did, ball rusted in the socket causing the stud to break off.
Now I'm paying ~$50 just because I didn't lube the f-er. LUBE IT OR LOSE IT

 

Last edited: Jun 12, 2008

H

HFXprotege5

Member

:

2002 Mazda Protege5

• Jun 11, 2008

• #6

chaztor said:

Wish I would have seen this thread or just performed some seemingly routine (now) maintenance.
I was really tired Monday night but need to get some things out of the hatch ~1130 at night (dark), got the stuff, started pushing down on the hatch and hear SNAP and the hatch closed down fast. WTF, see the gap and the right strut sticking out by the taillight. I can't shut the f-ing hatch, the strut wont compress (a lot of pressure in them) F F F I muttered and opened the garage got the tools and a light.
Found what OP did, ball rusted in the socket causing the stud to break off.
Now I'm paying ~$50 just because I didn't lube the f-er. LUBE IT OR LOSE IT

Click to expand...

You can pry the ball out using a small screw driver. the "ball" piece is available seperately at the Mazda dealership. I think I'm looking at the correct receipt from Mazda and the part # shows as being S084-62-625A. Do not order a new strut support unless you need it, it does not come with the "ball" part! The cost is about $7.

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Jun 12, 2008

• #7

AWESOME, Thanks HFXprotege5! I assumed the ball/stud was not removable. You even provided a part number. Thumbs up.

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Jun 12, 2008

• #8

chaztor said:

AWESOME, Thanks HFXprotege5! I assumed the ball/stud was not removable. You even provided a part number. Thumbs up.

Click to expand...

Checked online; part number was updated to S084-62-625b (note the "b"). $6.50 plus shipping.

$8.50 and in stock at my local dealer. Picking it up tonight. Thanks again HFX...!

 

G

GNO

Member

• Jun 13, 2008

• #9

Oops, sorry for not posting a follow-up on this. I did just that, replaced the ball/stud. I ended up getting the ball/stud part from Napa. It cost around $2/ea. I simply matched the threads in the stud. The ball was slightly larger than the stock one and I needed a larger socket to install it, but still fit in the socket.

 

Last edited: Jun 13, 2008

P

pasadena_commut

:

Protege5 2003

• Jun 13, 2008

• #10

chaztor said:

LUBE IT OR LOSE IT

Click to expand...

With what, lithium grease???

 

M

maxchao

Member

• Jun 14, 2008

• #11

And where? The ball and/or the piston?

Josh

 

R

Rivman

Member

:

'08 Mazda Sport GT / '93 Mazda 323 / '68 Buick Riviera GS

• Jun 14, 2008

• #12

Lube the pivot point - the ball !
Use lubriplate (white lithium) or wheel bearing grease. A very light oiling on the strut rod
won't hurt iether !

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Jun 16, 2008

• #13

Rivman said:

Lube the pivot point - the ball !
Use lubriplate (white lithium) or wheel bearing grease. A very light oiling on the strut rod
won't hurt iether !

Click to expand...

True that G. Any non-evaporative grease should do it. Some people bang on white lithium. I don't remember a good argument against it though.

The ball/socket on mine was completely nasty choked with rust. Anything would have helped.

 

M

maxchao

Member

• Jun 16, 2008

• #14

OK...I'm not good with types of grease. Can you suggest a brand and type and place to find it?

Josh

 

P

pasadena_commut

:

Protege5 2003

• Jun 16, 2008

• #15

I lubed mine yesterday with some spray lithium grease. Before doing so I noticed that some of the plastic on the "socket" part of the left strut (the part that goes around the ball) was soft and crumbly. It was only like that on the side facing the ball, and more so near the socket than down at the base which attaches to the strut rod. I scraped off about 2 mm with my finger nail. The strut on the other side was solid plastic everywhere. It sort of looks like somebody (an earlier owner or their mechanic) sprayed just the left side with some kind of grease that has slowly corroded the plastic.

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Aug 6, 2008

• #16

Its really sad but I still havn't fixed mine. The ball is soo rusted into the socket I have not been able to remove it. Even using several bits (drill and mill) and tons of pb-blaster. sigh. I just can' t bring myself to spend 40-60$ from a dealer. I have yet to stop by the NAPA dealer hopefully they will be able to help at less $$. My telescoping snow brush is the temp fix.

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Aug 28, 2008

• #17

done

welll I finally have a fix. I bought a smaller ball carbide burr and borrowed an air die grinder from work, honed out the socket.
Bought the stud from local dealer (he gave me 10% off since I begged and its part of TSB) for $8.50. Junkyard duuesh wanted to charge me $15 after I did most of the work finding one and taking it off a subi wagon. Other mazda dealer (shares space w/ Porsche lol) wanted $13. Ahhh probably spent $5 in gas and $100 in my own time.
I works but it came slip out due to me earlier work with the larger burr but at least I can put away the telescoping snow brush for a few months.

Words of advice;
Use die grinders for carbide bits they work soooo much better than drills. (duh)
LUBE THOSE PIVOTS!

 

G

gsmooth

Member

• Sep 3, 2008

• #18

i had mine replaced twice under warranty

it just popped out last month and i managed to knock it back into place...hasn't broken yet!

 

C

chaztor

:

2003.5 Pro5

• Sep 5, 2008

• #19

gsmooth said:

i had mine replaced twice under warranty

Click to expand...

I want to go to your dealer, my service guy is a douche....