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boost increase
- Thread starter mspHtown
- Start date
I personally wouldn't suggest just turning up the boost without any other mods. Sure your car will go fast, but I'd rather treat my car well. The a/f ratios are already ****** up enough as it is, and running more boost won't help it, especially on a stock car. Get some more supporting mods such as CAI, hardpipes, DP and exhaust, and you should be ready to go 9psi at least. I only run my car at 7psi, which I will do until I can get engine management to fix those nasty a/f ratios. After that, it'd be safe to run around the 15psi range on stock internals with the right a/f ratios, making some crazy power at the wheels. But thats just me being on the safe side.
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Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
9 psi should be fine. Just give a trial period and adjust for spikes. If you start hearing any new noises, then get rid of the bc until you know what's going on....
i ran 9 when i was stock and the car ran like junk, sure it was quicker but thats not everything to having a good car. I stopped after I found coolant leaks all over the place, the stock exhaust is way too restictive and I guess the backpressure just hurts the motor more and more over time.
Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
I was getting coolant leaks before I got home from driving off the lot... I don't think it's absolutely necessary, but a mid-pipe,CAI, Distilled Water and Water wetter (or Engine Ice or Liquid Performance coolant), and a I/C sprayer (c02 or h2o) will make boosting a little more efficient.
Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
H2O sprayer isn't going increase hp... it'll reduce heat soak some... Also, your best bet is to have two sprayers. Too bad there's no room to mount one from the rear, since that's where the heat soak is coming from anyway. Using the same pump to run cooler water through your TB where the hot coolant used to run though will make a difference in keeping peformance loss to a minimum. Water/Alcohol injection is obvoiusly more efficient, though more expensive. CO2 spray is more effective than H2O, since it's much colder, but I'd be worried about stress fractures because the I/C is going from hot to cold so quickly. Also the CO2 set-up you shouldn't spray while accelerating because your intake will suck up some gas, hurting performance since less O2 is taken in.
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Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
Or you can forget about all that nonsense and get a better I/C to compliment the MBC.
im not gonna get a sprayer cause it seems more of a hassle than its worth. wut better type of I/c do u recommend puckpimp?
bhamsan, do u have any proof that an increase to 9psi does damagae to the engine? i dopnt run the hell outa my car i only sometimes push it hard
bhamsan, do u have any proof that an increase to 9psi does damagae to the engine? i dopnt run the hell outa my car i only sometimes push it hard
Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
The whole I/C thing is a big can of worms.... For FMIC Hiboost is most cost effective at less than $1000. It's mild steel so you've got to keep an eye on rust if you live in a rust-prone area. The iON and Wagner kits are great, too, but cost well over $1000. If you're not looking for incredible gains in the future you can get the turbohoses SMIC kit... there's a ton of information around here. Personally, I think I'm going to see if the BEGI thing works out. If not I'm going to save for the Turbohoses SMIC. I just wanted something short term so I did the sprayer.
About upping to 9psi... It has to cause some damage to the engine becuase you've got the turbo working harder and you've got the engine producing power it's not tuned to handle. Adding the mid-pipe and CAI will help reduce some of the wear because the car will not need to work as hard to take air in or expel it. I think the wear is negligable, but there's still a little more. Generally, seeing how rich our cars run, adding a few more pounds shouldn't hurt too much.... just be careful. At the very least, colder plugs, a good synthetic oil and bottle of water wetter would be a good idea.
About upping to 9psi... It has to cause some damage to the engine becuase you've got the turbo working harder and you've got the engine producing power it's not tuned to handle. Adding the mid-pipe and CAI will help reduce some of the wear because the car will not need to work as hard to take air in or expel it. I think the wear is negligable, but there's still a little more. Generally, seeing how rich our cars run, adding a few more pounds shouldn't hurt too much.... just be careful. At the very least, colder plugs, a good synthetic oil and bottle of water wetter would be a good idea.
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If you need proof, just go reading through some of the threads that talk about increasing boost, a/f rations, or blown engines, which there are quite a few of. If not, your proof will become evident in a couple years, if you still have the car in one piece then.
But then again, its your car. I have no real reason to be telling you lies so you can keep your car slow or anything, just trying to help you out. That is what this forum is about anyways. So right now you can believe me and take my word for it, or you can think I'm totally full of BS and run your car at higher boost until your heart is content. Just look at some of the other posts in this thread saying the same thing:
But then again, its your car. I have no real reason to be telling you lies so you can keep your car slow or anything, just trying to help you out. That is what this forum is about anyways. So right now you can believe me and take my word for it, or you can think I'm totally full of BS and run your car at higher boost until your heart is content. Just look at some of the other posts in this thread saying the same thing:
At least have some sort of supporting mods before you run higher boost, don't do it on a stock car. This isn't some bullet proof Supra engine that can run 30+psi; it's only a protege.jeffmsp said:i ran 9 when i was stock and the car ran like junk, sure it was quicker but thats not everything to having a good car. I stopped after I found coolant leaks all over the place, the stock exhaust is way too restictive and I guess the backpressure just hurts the motor more and more over time.
how many blow engines here were on less than 10# though?Bhamsan said:If you need proof, just go reading through some of the threads that talk about increasing boost, a/f rations, or blown engines, which there are quite a few of. If not, your proof will become evident in a couple years, if you still have the car in one piece then.
But then again, its your car. I have no real reason to be telling you lies so you can keep your car slow or anything, just trying to help you out. That is what this forum is about anyways. So right now you can believe me and take my word for it, or you can think I'm totally full of BS and run your car at higher boost until your heart is content. Just look at some of the other posts in this thread saying the same thing:
At least have some sort of supporting mods before you run higher boost, don't do it on a stock car. This isn't some bullet proof Supra engine that can run 30+psi; it's only a protege.
Discreetspeed drove his car like he stole it with 14psi for almost a year. He blew his ring on the 4th cylinder. I ran 14 for a couple months. Everyones car is different running 9 "Shouldn't" hurt. But it definately can. If you have enough money to risk it go for it. If you're looking to make the car last then keep in mind that more boost kills motors no matter what you do if its stock, whether its 2 years from now or 2 weeks. Each car will do different things. All turbo'ed cars are different straight from the factory. Each has its ups and downs. I've gone back to stock boost keeping those things in mind i just wanted to know what the window i had to work with was. I run 7-8 psi sometimes and with race gas at the track 14psi. But without engine management and rods i'm not gonna be doing much with the boost knob anymore on the street. there haven't been that many blown engines. But there is a guy in raleigh that isn't on the boards that has blown his engine off 9psi but i think there was a little more to it than that.
oh no argument there, you are using the product other than as the manufacturer designed - I just meant that IIRC most of the blown engines on here were way > #9 and in most of the MANY threads on this topic the prevalent seems to have been that 9# is rather "safe" provided you aren't dumping 85 octane on it or something.Rich24km said:Discreetspeed drove his car like he stole it with 14psi for almost a year. He blew his ring on the 4th cylinder. I ran 14 for a couple months. Everyones car is different running 9 "Shouldn't" hurt. But it definately can. If you have enough money to risk it go for it. If you're looking to make the car last then keep in mind that more boost kills motors no matter what you do if its stock, whether its 2 years from now or 2 weeks. Each car will do different things. All turbo'ed cars are different straight from the factory. Each has its ups and downs. I've gone back to stock boost keeping those things in mind i just wanted to know what the window i had to work with was. I run 7-8 psi sometimes and with race gas at the track 14psi. But without engine management and rods i'm not gonna be doing much with the boost knob anymore on the street. there haven't been that many blown engines. But there is a guy in raleigh that isn't on the boards that has blown his engine off 9psi but i think there was a little more to it than that.
At least have some sort of supporting mods before you run higher boost, don't do it on a stock car. This isn't some bullet proof Supra engine that can run 30+psi; it's only a protege.
Agreed. See sig for current mods. I usually have to learn things the hard way, but when my brand new car was running like crap @ 9psi I decided to become a quick learner lol
Well, an engine has been blown, and it could happen again. It is true that each car is different, but you can talk to jeffmsp and I'm sure he'll tell you that learning things the hard way sucks. Just gain as much knowledge from the people who are ahead of you and have tried it before, no sense in making the same mistake as someone else when they've already done it.
It's a general consensus that running higher boost, even if its only 1psi over factory, will do some damage. Why put your car through that? It's only going to help you out in the long run to take your time. AT LEAST buy a downpipe, they're pretty cheap if you get one from DSMconvert, you will feel a whole lot more power increase at the same boost than just a car stock.
I don't think you'd want to have to replace your stock IC pipes, since they're a bad excuse for a pipe in the first place, its probably going to be the first thing to go, right where the BPV connects. They cost way more than they're worth.
It's a general consensus that running higher boost, even if its only 1psi over factory, will do some damage. Why put your car through that? It's only going to help you out in the long run to take your time. AT LEAST buy a downpipe, they're pretty cheap if you get one from DSMconvert, you will feel a whole lot more power increase at the same boost than just a car stock.
I don't think you'd want to have to replace your stock IC pipes, since they're a bad excuse for a pipe in the first place, its probably going to be the first thing to go, right where the BPV connects. They cost way more than they're worth.
Puckpimp71
Member
- :
- 1991 Taurus SHO, 2003 Black Mazdaspeed Protege
Agreed that hard pipes are a good idea. At least JB Weld that BPV nipple
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