E-brake adjustment after brake upgrade

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Howdy all!
After a rather loooong and traumatic brake upgrade (powerslot rotors, hawk hp pads, corksport SS lines, valvoline synth 3+4 fluid, speed bleeders), I think I'm done. However my emergency brake doesn't seem to have any tension on it. My car's still up on jacks, and the shop manual (page 4-12-1) says to start the engine, pump the brake, then stop the engine and check it, but that didn't help.
I think I just didn't screw the rear piston allen-wrench bolt thing back in as far as it used to be, so my rear pistons are further from the rotor than usual. I figure I can just screw it in a little further until the e-brake returns to its previous tension. I know I can mess with the e-brake bolt underneath the handle, but I figure it's better to adjust the rear pistons back to how they used to be.

IF THIS DOESN'T MAKE SENSE TO SOMEONE PLEASE SCREAM AT ME SO I DON'T BREAK SOMETHING ELSE (like I did my stock bleeder screw!) :)
 
yeah well you got it figured out, adjust the rear calipers to where the pad just touches the rotor and then back out 1/3rd of a turn of the allen-head screw

the ebrake will probably still be loose, that's when you go to remove the boot/cover on the handle and tighten it up from there, it won't magically pick up the slack by itself
 
the allen-head bolt on the back of the caliper will NOT go back to where it used to be, that's the point, it's an adjustment screw for when you put in the new pads
 
I changed my rear brake pads last week, just before heading to work. When I got to work, I attempted to set the parking brake but there wasn't enough tension. Easy fix, just adjust the screw when I get home - Right?

Wrong. . . when I got home I tried it again and the e-brake was tight.

As the pads wear, the resting position of the caliper piston moves closer and closer to the rotor to compensate for the wear. This is the same reason you have to pump the brake at first. Apparently, I didn't do it enough. Might be the same case for you.
 
^^ What he said. After putting my pads back in, I just ran the e-brake lever up and down until it was tight.
 
Thanks for all the great responses. I thought I did put the allen-head screw back to where it was supposed to be (touch then back out 1/3 turn), but if it's not supposed to be in the same position as before then maybe I will just adjust the e-brake in the cabin. I pumped the e-brake about a dozen times and it did stiffen a little, but not nearly enough. I'll let you know what happens! :)
 
Well, pumping the e-brake more didn't seem to help, so I turned the adjustment screw about 2 revolutions and that made a difference. I'll pop the wheels back on and drive it around a bit and see if it adjusts itself over time before doing anything else. Thanks again for all the help! :)
 
GNO and Vivid you were right, after driving it around for real my e-brake adjusted itself and is now nice and tight. :) Thanks!

Of course it seems either one caliper is warped or one powerslot rotor wasn't built right so it's all for naught. :( See my EMERGENCY BRAKE HELP!!! posting for more info. Not a good day......
 
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