How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

INGREXCO said:
no you dont...

haha, funny you bump this thread now

I'm getting very close to doing this, I have all my parts now! ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, and the MSP LSD. I even got some motor mount inserts so I can take out the AWR rear mm.

I looked over the thread a few times again and it looks doable... but still scarey :D
 
khaosman said:
haha, funny you bump this thread now

I'm getting very close to doing this, I have all my parts now! ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, and the MSP LSD. I even got some motor mount inserts so I can take out the AWR rear mm.

I looked over the thread a few times again and it looks doable... but still scarey :D



your going to weld the MSP diff before putting it in,right?
 
Replacement for Protege G5m tranny

The post on removing and installing a tranny was a real good read. I'm in the midst of replacing the DOHC 1.8 and 5spd tranny from a 91 Protege due to my SIL no knowing the value of engine and transmission oil... My son now has the car, and we're underway, an engine is coming, but finding a tranny to fit his budget ($400-500 or so) has not been successful.

Does anyone know if the F series manual tranny's will bolt up and swap in with minimum modification? I realize we will need to change CV axles, etc. (need to anyway, as the boots are torn).

Thanks,

Smitty
 
wicked said:
your going to weld the MSP diff before putting it in,right?

Hmm good point, I probably might as well. What parts do people weld to make it stronger?
 
So the tranny drain bolt is 22mm and the fill bolt is 23mm? Why are these the largest bolts used on the car?! the closest is the crank pulley (21mm) and lugnuts (also 21mm).

Damn you craftsman set, you fail me! I gotta go pick up a 22 and 23mm now.

And no, I'm not taking out my tranny, just doing the tranny fluid again (put redline in at around 30k miles, at 63500 now).

Edit: stupid Sears doesn't carry 23mm sockets so I had to just get a combo 21/23mm wrench. 14.99 vs. like 5 dollars per socket argh. I hope I don't need a ton of torque on that 23mm, but IIRC last time I did it with a medium-sized adjustable wrench so I should be ok.
 
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Just took out the tranny and took apart...about to get a new lsd and put in, but one question what kind of weld are you guys using to welt these, the lsd looks like cast and the gear looks steel...also factory how the hell are gear and lsd held together?
 
do a search,there are pictures popsted on the forum of what is supposed to be welded......................


it's TIG by the way,a stick is sloppy,and MIG just won't work.
 
awesome info!! I will be needing to remove my tranny here soon and this will help a ton! Also Turfburn since you live close to me I may need to ask of your assistance when it comes time to put the gtx gears and new lsd in. If you don't mind.
 
Steve thanks for putting this together, I took my tranny apart today to put in my gtx gears and my quaife lsd, its nowhere near as difficult as i thought it would be :)
 
tekkie said:
Steve thanks for putting this together, I took my tranny apart today to put in my gtx gears and my quaife lsd, its nowhere near as difficult as i thought it would be :)

OOooo Quaife LSD, you gotta share with us how nice it is :D
 
Steve thanks for doing this man, it came in handy for sure, I swapped my gtx gears tody and put the tranny back together :)
 
Well I followed this and still can't get the roll pin out between the forks? It just wont. I can't pull the top fork up enough because the bottom of the fork shaft hits the bottom fork.

I have no clue? stumped.....
 
kz9 said:
Well I followed this and still can't get the roll pin out between the forks? It just wont. I can't pull the top fork up enough because the bottom of the fork shaft hits the bottom fork.

I have no clue? stumped.....


I got it! I had to twist to 1st gear, then it dropped. Thanx...
 
The MSP tranny is different...

Ok, I could not get the damn 1-2, 3-4, linkage roll pin back
in with the provided instructions as the revised shift fork, at least in my tranny, would not allow the rollpin back in because the linkage will not line up.
So what to do?
You have to take another rollpin out lower down
http://www.msprotege.com/members/yashooa/trans%20065.jpg
and then move the rod up and align the roll pin with the collar "things" that moves through the shift fork "things." Once you have the upper rollpin in you push the rod back down and line up the bottom hole and then you smack the bottom rollpin back in.
Here is another shot of the lower rollpin.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/yashooa/trans%20066.jpg
This makes life so much easier :)
 
i dont have most of the tools to do this or a garage right now plus after researching I still dont totally understand most of this on rebuilding my transmission since i never did it before. I believe my shift fork broke.. Im having my car picked up monday to get worked on at a transmission shop. They are charging me like $500 in labor plus parts. Any idea on how much the shift forks cost or any related parts to that? Just so I kno they are like over charging me for the parts.. Im kinda low on cash so It would help to know that im not getting ripped on the parts.
 
Shift forks are about 60-80 dollars each. There are only 3 in the transmission, only two of which have ever been known to break at all.
 
I started working on my tranny last night, and ran into a few problems. First, I couldn't get the ball joint clamp bolt out since the bolt seems to be seized. I ended up disconnecting the tie-rod instead, and the strut from the hub. The shaft came out considerably easy from the tranny. My next problem was the shift linkage bolt! That b**** was so seized I had to end up using a punch on my air hammer to get the fucker out!!

I'm just about to start working on it again this morning, I'm hoping the rest goes a bit smoother.
 
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