How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

JDM Sam said:
Torque wrench, pry bar, big ******* hammer, extension handle for more leverage on ratchet, engine support, impact, good set of metric sockets deep reach, flex head ratchets, 14 mm box wrench, tranny jack or a helper to help you hoist the tranny back in. Have a fun 6-10 hours if ur doing it the first time.
Yeah it will be oh so fun to learn how to do this on my own car!!!(boom02)

At least I have a buddy from work that has done a few helping me out!
I <3 my co-worker's!(kissass)

I'm hoping that my flywheel is fine and doesn't need to be resurfaced.that will mess up my whole plan to have this done in a weekend top's.

Anyway's, thank you all very much for the help and I will let you all know how it go's when the time come's to do it. I'm looking at about 2-3weeks untell I have the time to do this. maybe a little sooner.
 
Well,we got the clutch in about two weeks ago and it wasn't as easy as I was thinking it was going to be but,it wasn't that bad either.TurfBurn I just wanted to thank you again and everyone else for their tip's/how-to.

Awesome write up man I'm sure it will help alot of other people in the future.

Thanks
David:)
 
excellent work Steve I never even noticed this one before

how about a how-to on removing the motor :D
 
tekkie said:
excellent work Steve I never even noticed this one before

how about a how-to on removing the motor :D
Probably will be doing one of those :). When I put my motor back in the car in about 8 weeks I'll do a writeup then. I'm missing a lot of the pictures I need for doing that one :). But I will go ahead and do it. Any other's?? I have the motor out so I can do just about any of them that you think would be of use. I'll do one on cams for sure. I won't have one for the head installation though, but that's straight forward. I will have one for all the pulley's and stuff too. And I'll add a clutch one as well.
 
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, I was just kidding :)

Hey man if you can do the engine that will help me out immensly, I have never done an engine swap before so without this I am sure that I am going to be doing it in the wrong steps whilch will lead to way more work than I want. Of course the more important part that scares me is putting it back in :) I dont want to screw that up and realize I have to redo half of it, lol.

I have to install my new clutch and remove my LSD's but you already have pretty much done those here anyway.

Thinking ...... I know how to install the FMIC - and Thumper kit already because I helped Azian6er do his :) and the fuel rail I know because I already had mine out to install my injectors.

So I think thats all I need :) but I am sure other people may have things they want.

Just strip the whole car and rebuild it from scratch, that should cover everything :D lol
 
TurfBurn said:
NOTE: When I did this I also had one of the new revised 1-2 shift forks. It can not be installed using the disassembly method I indicated here as you can not get the linkages lined up properly again due to a larger shoulder on the shift fork. Other disassembly that I did not attempt to figure out is required.
So you didn't put in your new 1-2 fork?
 
No I didn't... I never figured out how to do it as the way I took apart the gears didn't allow for it to go back together right. I haven't needed it.. I have the fork around... and I may tackle it at some point.. but as of yet I haven't figured out the right sequence of pins and so forth to allow it to go back together with the new fork because of the larger shoulder.
 
TurfBurn said:
No I didn't... I never figured out how to do it as the way I took apart the gears didn't allow for it to go back together right. I haven't needed it.. I have the fork around... and I may tackle it at some point.. but as of yet I haven't figured out the right sequence of pins and so forth to allow it to go back together with the new fork because of the larger shoulder.

I did the 1-2 shift fork upgrade when I had my tranny out last summer. It wasn't hard, I did it without disassembling every gear set. I wish I had a pic to show you. :( I think I'm done opening up my tranny for quite a while.

Ohh, and FYI for you people, my tranny saga within the last month (it was posted in the rep. points thread, I should've posted the pics and info here).

PICS ON THIS POST:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1498147&postcount=7038

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1500911&postcount=7079

PICS ON THIS POST:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1505895&postcount=7224

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506026&postcount=7230

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506058&postcount=7237

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506066&postcount=7239

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1514355&postcount=7447

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1516091&postcount=7491

If anyone ever needs to open up the outside of the tranny while it's on the car, I have now done it a few times, it's pretty simple, almost too simple. The only thing that's accessible out there is 5th gear and some of the parts for reverse I think.
 
Holy crap girl you did in that 5th gear! That was some serious s*** :). Glad you got it taken care of...

I'm not going to worry about my shift fork until I blow out a tranny. I should have a spare soonish (or at least before I start boosting in genuine once I drop the motor back in)... and then if I take one out I'll just swap them in and out... But yeah... quite the pictures! Hope all else is well.

Later,

Steve
 
So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Can't speak to the seals, but you will want to support the tranny with a jack. It doesn't weigh a ton, but it is cumbersome.

Shouldn't be that hard to install the flywheel if you have access to an impact wrench. If you don't, it gets a little more interesting. I dropped the oil pan on my GTI and put a block of wood in there to keep the crank from turning.

The alignment tool is used to center the clutch disc up with the pressure plate. Makes installing the tranny a whole lot easier.

DooMer_MP3 said:
So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris
 
DooMer_MP3 said:
So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris

I thought you sold your MP3? Hmm... well anyway... LOL.

You HAVE to replace the seals, even if you don't mess them up when you are working with the axles they will leak if you don't replace them, I've learned that one the hard way. They cost all of 6 bucks each so no worries there.

Tranny with no fluid in it weighed out at 96 lbs when we weighed it. You do not need the Mazda SST's to do any of it... just some set punches for setting the seals gently etc.

All clutches come with an alignment tool, it basically roughly lines up the friction disc properly so that when it is tightened down/clamped by the pressure plate that everythign is in line with the pilot bearing so that you can get the main shaft to engage properly.

As far as the possibility of pulling the oil pan... that's a LOT of work on our motors.. easiest way is to have a buddy hold the crankwith a wrench from the other side of the car while you do your thing on the flywheel. You can put a socket on the crank bolt and you'll be good.

Chris, if you want to do it some weekend you can bring it out to my place and we can do it.... I've pulled the tranny enough times and have all the tools.

Later,

Steve
 
Steve,
Thats music to my ears (the trip to Madison) I'll buy you food, beer, whatever :D. It all seems like something I could do if I were very patient and meticulous, but it would be fantastic to have someone who's done it before to show me the first time. I never sold the car. Decided buying a nice condo downtown in Milwaukee was more attractive than a VW GLI :). I am doing the clutch/flywheel because of some pretty bad chatter this winter, and it is now a quite real possibility that I'll be purchasing a supercharger kit from ... Don't want to get banned ;).

Chris
 
The seals are replaced from the outside of the tranny? I just had the tranny out of the car about two months ago...and I don't think the seals were replaced. I don't see any leaks though...but I need to remove the clutch/flywheel to send to Spec for inspection. I can get the seals from the dealer? I'm assulming they are the same for all 5spd proteges?

Thanks.
 
I have the part numbers posted somewhere.. the axles seals are on the outside.. so yes they are replaced from the outside.. there is one seal in the middle of the tranny but it is a beast to replace. They are the same for all protege's... and they are about 6 bucks each from your dealer or I personally recommend getting them from mazdastuff.com

Later!

Steve
 
Steve,

Does the gear shaft coming out of the tranny in the bell housing need to be greased along with the t/o bearing? Or there should absolutely be 0 grease around those parts as they go through the clutch disk? If they do need to be greased can you recommend the grease to use?

As far as the tranny fluid...is it safe to just fill the tranny up with new/different fluid without first cleaning the inside of the tranny from any left over fluid with something like parts cleaner?

Thanks!
 
ONly grease moving parts that are exposed to friction (except clutches and brakes, they need the friction). That being said, there are only two parts on the shaft that are under friction: the TO bearing and the oil seal. The throwout bearing should be a sealed bearing because you don't want grease to spread to your clutch (besides, you can't grease it unless you take it apart).
 
only areas you grease in the bellhousing area are the pivot ball that supports the release fork, and the two contact points on the release fork that push agaisnt the throwout bearing.. nothing else in that area gets greased... the shaft is dry when it is slid into the pilot bearing and through the clutch... As far as the fluid change... your stock fluid will mix in more or less fine with the redline... getting the redline out later will be a b**** but compressed air can get it off usually... but it isn't imperative to switch them from my knowledge.
 
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